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Do you remove the 2 clamps with 8mm hexs that hold U-joint to the driveshaft before removing the 3 T55 torx's? Also that 36mm 165 Ft-lb nut was hand tight! when I removed it Is that due to the bearing being shot?
I don't remove the U-joint, I only remove the torx bolts that hold the bearing on.
I don't know why the axle nut gets loose but they do. When I nut and bolt my track car I've found them loose. I always tell people that think they have a bad bearing to check and see if the axle nut is loose first.
While working on my brakes recently I checked the bolts holding the fronts on, 66 ft/lbs is the spec and they were around 15.
I have noticed on other vehicles that are front drive that the spindle nut is to be replaced each time as if it were a one time use nut. Think that is the case here? Or do you drive it for a while, then re-torque?
Do you remove the 2 clamps with 8mm hexs that hold U-joint to the driveshaft before removing the 3 T55 torx's? Also that 36mm 165 Ft-lb nut was hand tight! when I removed it Is that due to the bearing being shot?
Yes the spindle nut will become loose if one side of bearing race has excessive "play".I've seen it first-hand.I'll bet when you remove hub/bearing it will have alot of "play"
It was the original bearing with 75,000 miles of which 100+ hours were on a race track, so no complaints on its longevity just surprised it was so torn up.
It was the original bearing with 75,000 miles of which 100+ hours were on a race track, so no complaints on its longevity just surprised it was so torn up.
OEM are good, no doubt. I think breaking them in is the thing to do, like DRM said they learned from racing back in the day.
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