I posted my problem last week. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...a-problem.html

just got a chance to check into it. had to try a couple of times but it started so I moved it into the other bay so I could work on it. tried pulling codes but nothing came up.

tried starting it again, but just got continuous clicking. light work OK. tried using my portable jumper box but still just clicking. How do I check for starter and/or alternator issues ?

Thanks

 

Charge up the battery and give it another try. Sometimes those jumper box batteries are not charged up enough. If after charging the starter still clicks, take it down and have it tested at Autozone.

 

If you're getting a continuous click/click/click while the key is HELD in the start position could be weak/bad battery or poor battery terminal or cable connections at either end of the cables--if you're getting only one "click"each time you turn the key could the solenoid engaging the drive--but the starter motor itself not turning. If you're getting the "one click scenario" get someone else to hold the key in the "start position" while you (from under the car) give starter a couple smacks w/small hammer it may try to start if the starter is bad.

I read the other thread you started--when you used the paper clip method to check codes if your "ck eng. light" blinked once-paused-then blink/blink twice which is code 12 over and over w/no other codes in between then you're not getting any codes as you said. It's just strange with the backfiring and black smoke that you have no codes. May be something the ECM doesn't monitor like the dist. cap and/or rotor. Any way from your description it sounds like you have two problems--but first you'll need to get the starter to spin the engine over. Once you get that corrected--I'd check for codes again just to be sure. BTW it's a good idea to continue with your original "thread" so forum members who are helping you and/or others who are trying to follow the thread can continue until you find the solution. That's my 2 cents--Good Luck

P.S. If you do suspect starter- most auto parts stores can test it for you

 

Hi Folks:

well the saga continues. I started it last Sunday and took it around the block. Got into it and it bogged down. let off it and it was fine. got into it again, same thing.

Just tried to start it and had issues. put my trickle charger on it for a bit and it started after a couple tries.

Tried to pull codes using the paper clip method and I get nothing but "service ASR". "Engine Service Soon" and the battery indicator. Am I doing someting wrong ?

thanks for any suggestions.

Have a Merry Xmas and Happy NY. Al

 

Disconnect the battery, clean both the cables/bolts and the battery terminals then charge it for a few hours. Once charging is complete - take the battery down to your local autoparts store and have them load test it for you...then go from there.

 

You all looking old school, the cars today are not as simple as they used to be. Just had the same problem, mine was burnt contacts in the key switch. When the key switch does not supply a full 12 volts the security system shuts off the fuel and battery power, giving the false indication that the battery is dead. Dealer cost was $105.00 for switch and about $300.00 labor. On older car it is reach under dash, pull out the switch, swap wires and replace. Corvette is shut down computer, remove console, part of dash, etc. etc. You can look up procedure to remove and replace the switch. After I read it I had car towed to the dealer. Hope this helps

 

Thanks Stroke03. yours is a C5. is this a DIY on a 92 ? thanks.

 

Thanks Stroke03. How did you determine that this was the problem ? Assume that it would be the same for a C4.

If I get it started I may be able to drive it to a local dealer in the area that is a Vette specialist.

 

I had the battery checked and it is fine. tried starting it today and nothing. tried the paper clip method of pulling codes and nothing. why am I not able to pull codes ? hate to bring it to a shop but don't see any alternative.

thanks and Merry Xmas.

 

It sounds like you have 2 problems from what I read.
Put vette up on stands, use a volt meter to measure voltage at large & small starter wires while someone cranks it, the large wire should have 12v all the time, small one only when cranking. Make sure the starter is grounded good to the block. Hitting the starter w/ a hammer can work too. Listen to how it sounds if you get it turning, abnormal sounding?
As far as the bog, you need to check fuel pressure & the regulator(for torn diapham). Maybe tps, dirty maf.

 

I agree...you have two problems: 1. not starting, 2. bogging down upon acceleration. Need to tackle one at a time.

As stated above, first check for clean contacts at the battery. Pull back the red and black caps on the battery cables and make sure their is no corrosion present.
Check connections to starter for the red(+) cable; to the block for the black(-) cable. Also check the large red wire connection at the alternator....make sure it is clean and tight.

Check for correct voltage at the starter terminals. The car must be suppported with jack stands before getting under it. Have someone turn the key while you check the voltage. You might also just pull the starter off and have it tested or rebuilt. How old is it?

As far as the bogging down....could be the alternator output is low...or fuel pressure, injectors, bad plugs/wire....or opti. Could even be plugged cats.

Many things to check and eliminate one at a time.

Good luck.

 

What is you reference for this? It is new to me that VATS looks at voltage.

Also,the battery needs a good overnight charge and not just for a few hours. Especially on a trickle charger. That does nothing.

 

Define nothing. Does it flash 12?

 

Rule of thumb is to investigate the most obvious/common probable causes first. Then, if necessary move on to other things that will probably be more extensive, time consuming and, yes, expensive.

In a no start clicking situation I'd first verify the battery voltage is UP. I just, THIS VERY MORNING, had to jump start my daughter's rental car after she left the interior light on over-night. The engine had the click-click condition.

Next check that the battery cables and the battery ground are clean and tight. Recently, opne guy trired starting his engine with the battery cables only hand tight. Guess what his results were.

If voltage is UP, eliminate the starter solenoid as the cause. Use a screwdriver and touch the ''S' terminal and the the 12v terminal on the solenoid at the same, if the starter cranks the engine, it's a bad solenoid.

After those things are checked and verified and found to be okay, then it'll be time to move on to other things, like codes, key, ignition lock, VATS, etc.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!

 

I doesn't show any codes at all. the battery symbol, "infl rest" and "service ABS" is all that shows up.

Gonna check the starter and solenoid over the weekend.

Thanks

 

If it doesn't flash 12 then you are either doing it wrong or the ECM has problems.

I vote for the former.

 

I thought you simply used a paper clip. Jump the A and B terminal with a paper clip. turn the ignition on but don't start it.

seems simple enough. what am I doing wrong ?

 

Wrong pins, you need to do A to G, that is the Top right and bottom left pins.

 

sorry I gave you the pins for my model.
here is a link
http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

 

I disagree - these cars are not that hard to diagnose/troubleshoot....you don't have to rip the whole car apart to swap parts or rack up a huge bill at the stealership to try to fix a "no start" problem. Myself, I tend to stick with the K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) ideology since it has served me extremely well over the years...but to each his/her own.
with the other posts -to me, also sounds as if the OP may have multiple problems. A good first step is to ensure that the battery has and maintains the correct voltage/amperage capabilitites while under "load"....once this is established as "good/OK" move on to the next step.

A 1992 FSM (Factory Service Manual) set and/or a volt/ohm meter would be a huge asset to help with the OP's troubleshooting.