Those CNC ones, why would they only sell 1, instead of 2?

Also, does anybody know what "Minimal brinelling of aluminum heads" means?

 

Thanks for the help, but if you want to argue please start another thread.
I need to get advise, because I need to get a new head gaskets.

 

There are times only one head gasket needs replaced.

 

by the way when you order your ARP bolts don't forget the assembly lube and thread sealer

 

aluminum is a softer metal then cast iron.. the fire rings of gaskets tend to dent the head.. that is the word they use instead of denting.

 

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!
That was driving me NUTS.

 

My stock head bolts were stretched so far I had to persuade them out of the head.
Use NEW ARP bolts, I've had my heads on and off a couple of times since then and they have not stretched. Use the ARP lube, don't use their sealer - use permatex. My bolts leaked coolant using the ARP sealer, switched to the Permatex and all is well.

I'm going to use the CNC gaskets this winter when I do the heads again (its a racing thing).

 

One last question, do you have to take the valves apart?

 

when changing the head gaskets? no.

 

You mentioned in your original post that you were going to "polish" the heads. Do you mean porting the heads? If so, the valves will need to be removed.

 

No, I just wanted to smooth out the combustion chamber.

 

Just came across this thread, but for future reference, when you come across a word that's new, you can always go to dictionary.com and look up the definition. What that does is eliminate confusion when you receive different "definitions" for different responders for the same word. That's what I do.

Also, there's a lot of confusion floating around on Forums like these over a wide variety of issues. So it's best to get folks to cite their sources when these conflicting posts surface - AND THEY SURELY WILL. Then you can compare the differing views and decide for yourself which advice to follow and which to ignore.

As an example is the Torque To Yield bolts that GM began using a few years back. Some folks think that because GM now recommends a different way to tighten head bolts that all the HEAD BOLTS are Torque to Yield and can't be re-used. It's just a different way to tighten them.

I could post a long list of such instances of incorrect information, information being posted as if it was gospel, to better drive home my point, but think you've got it.

My advice is to FIRST decide on whose information you can rely and whose you can't. It shouldn't take long to distinguish one from the other.

As far as polishing your heads, that's pretty much an "old school" term -you know, "port and polish" - which has pretty much fallen out of favor based on the latest flow bench results. Those tests show that a surface that maintains a certain "roughness" (for lack of a better word) is beneficial in preventing air/fuel separation. Polishing does help in some areas, but not in others. Polishing is basically a cosmetic thing anyway, unless you know exactly where to do it.

Best plan, if you still want to have at it, is to do some research and look at what the most successful head porters are doing. However, many times, more harm than good is done when the unexperienced start grinding/polishing on their heads. My advice, leave 'em be.

In my many years of experience I've found that following the manufacturer's recommendation on use and installation of a part is the way to go. You'll sometimes find those who choose to deviate from the recommended way -which is their call - but my thinking is the manufacturer has done all the Research, Development and Testing to justify their recommendation - so no need to re-invent the wheel.

Some of what you will read has, at it's core, lack of reading comprehension. They read but don't accurately comprehend what they've read. I have a very recent example of that, but I won't get into it here.

Just my views and hope it helps.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!

 

Ok, one last question again.

Why is ARP bolts $60 a side and Felpro $17, there cannot be that much difference in metal and strength or is there??

Thanks again!!

 

'brinelling' is a type of material failure that occurs due to concentrated, repetitive high loading at the surface...no deformation will be evident, but failure can be detected thru close visual examination (look for 'fish scales')...this failure is common on ball/roller bearing races/etc due to load concentration at contact point of *****/rollers vs race...with cylinder heads the failure results from head bolt clamping forces concentrating at the 'high spot', that being the gasket 'fire ring', while 'motion' is induced by the higher rate of thermal expansion of the alum head vs the iron crankcase

 

The ARP bolts are a full set (both sides), and can be reused.

 

Google Pioneer products and see if they make the bolts they should. Bout as strong and a lot cheaper. ARP is good stuff no doubt but there are alternatives. Make sure and use the washer under the bolt they supply

 

Yep, that's right, but when I bought new GMPP LT4 intake gaskets they came one to a package also. I never did figure that one out.

 

Absolutely. Also, make sure you install the washers correctly; WITH THE BEVELED SIDE UP.

Jake