Anyone running E3 spark plugs in an LT1 and if so, what are your thoughts? Knowing what a pain this job is, I don't want to put them in only to replace them with NGKs later. E3s webpage lists two different plugs, E3.44 and E3.54, but doesn't say which one is for the LT1, any help is appreciated.

 

I would stay away from the "gimmick" plugs and stick to a proven performer like NGK.

 

Stay with "normal" plugs. They are not easy task

 

I dont have the LT1 but did put them in my 86 and got a quicker start, better idle and a bit more MPG, as far as power, no idea.

 

I bought some of these plugs to try in an older pickup.. they are not normal sized (5/8 or 13/16 ) the body of them appears to be metric..

 

NGK TR55s it will be, or maybe I will at least opt for the iridium version

I know not everyone believes that plugs can make a difference, but I had a similar situation years ago when the "splitfire" plugs were around. I had a car that would cold stall quite often and no one could seem to find the problem, but in the end a set of splitfires did resolve the problem.

 

Nope. Still runnin' the NGK TR-55 Double Plats.

 

A friend of mine installed these E3 gimmick plugs in his '06 Volvo X90. They melted, fell apart, and got caught between the piston and valve. Now he has no compression in one cylinder and a bent valve. He should have stuck with what has worked fine for 100 years. This just happened and was diagnosed yesterday. He installed the plugs about a month ago, and called me last night, seeking advice.

Simply replacing the old plugs, with decent new plugs, would have had the same effect, I'm sure. No "type" of spark plug can "help" a spark jump from point A to point B, better than any other. All the spark can do is jump from one point to another. That is it.

 

if all the spark does is jump, THAT is a problem, hope was that it would ignite the fuel...'cutback' ground electrode/ 'indexed'/ etc will reduce misfires ( misses often undetected by ear, esp at high engine speeds) and increase output...'multiple' ground electrodes may in fact 'shield' the fuel from spark, reducing engine output...as prev stated, old plugs will always bow to new IF gap/heat range/etc are correct.

 

stick with A/C Delco

 

NGK plugs in my LT1

 

Wow, nothing like being called a liar when you have firsthand knowledge to the contrary.

Anyway, I have heard too many folks say good things about them so I will be trying them also.

 

i'd stay away form those plugs. i switched to NGK's UR4 plug and i'm extremely pleased with it. excellent idle and faster starts.

 

I put some Bosch Platinum+4 plugs (4 electrodes, gap set at factory) in my wife's 2005 Nissan Altima, and the car starts better and gets better mileage. However... I'm reluctant to experiment with my 94 LT-1. Think I'm gonna stick with NGK TR55s.

Info on the Bosch plugs if you're interested:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/boschsp.htm

 

NGK TR55's have been in my LT1 for the last 3 years. No problems at all.

 

From my personal experience with Bosch Platinum +4s in other vehicles, when I change plugs in my LT-1, the +4s will get the nod. I experienced the same results as fuzzydog did with the +4s.

Norm.

 

Maybe I wasn't clear in my original post, but new plugs were installed, new OEM ACDelcos and the problem persisted. Changing to the splitfires "fixed" the problem.

As for the vette, NGKs seem to be highly regarded by most, so I will be going that route. As of now I'm just not sure if I will go with the standard one, the platinums, or the iridiums.

BTW, my Magnecor wires arrived yesterday - very nice quality. I can't wait to install them!

 

Dont forget the anti seize

 

I installed a set of E3's in my 79, L82. I had a problem with the plugs fouling if I did not run my carb extremely lean. I changed back to the original plug and have had no problems.

 

Interesting to find this thread. I just pulled my plugs for a look last week. The #8 plug was, by far, worst to get to. I did them all from the top and ended up using an open end wrench to get that #8 out, one flat at a time.

The driver's side was much easier for me. I took the ASR loose and moved it up as far as I could without disconnecting the cables. I disconnected the AIR lines (rubber) from the ASR, the fitting above the plugs and the fitting at the back of the engine by the EGR. This opened the area enough to get to all the plugs though the #1 was the toughest.

I also found the plugs were gapped to 65 thousandths. Mine were new in 2015 installed by the PO and have less than 2000 miles on them. I pulled them to be sure none of them had cracked ceramics on them. I'm chasing a driveability issue (miss?) and this was the next step. My plugs looked good, but at only 2000 miles I'd have been disappointed if they hadn't looked good.

I also endoscoped the optispark, water pump weep hole, plug wires and coil. I wanted to see if there was any evidence of any kind of damage or if the optispark was being pissed on by the water pump or covered with oil from the engine.

I've got a thread in this section describing what I've been doing to troubleshoot my issue.