Can somebody with experience walk me through the entire process of switching to carb, especially concerning the wiring?

My 383 is 90 % done sitting at the machine shop and I am a little nervous to cut into the harness.

 

Technical you don't need to cut anything, you can just make safe any wires not needed.
If you are never going back then you cut back to the main harness any wiring contected to EFI stuff. Must make safe as many are live ; Key on and controlled by going to ground at the ECM.
So on the engine harness you would remove;
injector , IAC ,CTS , TPS , MAF, AIR, EGR, O2 wiring.
The heavy pink that went to the HEI is now your coil feed , the white is your tacho signal (- side of coil ).
All the wiring to gauge sensors ( temp ,OP , oil temp) stays.
Fuel pump wiring stays and you need a bypass fuel reg to cut pressure down to suit carb
You need to install a temp switch for fan control

 

oh well, If you are going to insist on a carb, you are leaving performance on the table............
Why not just get the ECM chipped, and make the computer get that extra 20-25 horses and 40 foot Lbs of torque. The manifold will bolt on unless you go vortec.
Instead of buying a $400 carb, a $250 manifold, $125 fuel pump, $100 worth of braided fuel hoses, and all those new fancy gauges, buy a big mouth manifold, and siamese the existing runners and get your throttle body and mass air sensor bored out, chip the computer......
Do you not realize that your 383 with a mild cam has the torque of a stock L98?
You are eliminating the torque of a TPI, and replacing it with the torque of a 383.
Why not add the torque of a TPI to your 383 and get almost 500 foot Lbs of torque out of that 383?
BUT if you must,
Why cut the harness?
Just lay it aside,or remove it, pull the injector fuses, ECM fuse, and anything else you can find that is injection related.
1. behind the battery is a battery terminal that the main positive battery lead serves. add a relay off of that, and add an ingition switched fuse panel.
2. What do you need, Ignition? engine temp? fan relay power? oil pressure?
Certainly you don't need air conditioning or a heater......that is in the harness along with the vacuum source for them.
3.So run those new items through a multiple fuse holder purchased at auto zone or Checker, and feed those items.
Remove the digital dash, and make yourself an aluminum plate with 2" spacers that hold all your new gauges.
Be sure to use a fuel pressure adapter instead of running gasoline to a gauge inside the car.
We would all hate to lose you due to a fuel fed interior fire.

 

http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/replace.shtml

 

I was wanting to still use the digital. I had heard that you could keep all of the functions except the mpgs

 

Ok, thanks for the good info. I think I all I need to buy is the fuel line, hardware and temp switch

 

Do a search.
Plenty of good carb conversion writeups with parts #'s and work arounds

 

About 10 years ago I had an 86 Trans Am that was fuel injected at birth. I bought it to build a weekend warrior to have fun with so I yanked the 305 and put in a carb'd 350. Since there was no signal from the ECM telling the fuel pump to supply fuel, it was reluctant to send any. I had to pull the tank and bypass the pump. I don't know if it will be necessary for you, but it sure was for me.

In hindsight I could have just wired the pump to run when ignition was on but just didn't think about it at the time.

 

If the ECM stays , most things still work.You just remove thhe dredudant wiring from the engine harness