I have an 88 L98 that just got sick. I don't have any idea what is wrong with the engine, broken valve spring, valve... I have not started to tear into the engine yet.


Does anyone have any info and a link for crate engines? I think it would be about the same price to replace the engine rather than rebuild it but I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance
Mark :sad:


[Modified by 884fun, 8:13 PM 3/4/2002]

 

Check out goautocenter.com, they have a good selection of crate engines. also the GM performance parts links list them (sdpc2000.com and paceparts.com) :cheers:

 

Depending on which crate you select, the crate motor IS generally the more economic route.

 

First, WELCOME TO THE FORUM :D

Depending on your budget... I would recommend a GM crate motor... specifically a ZZ4 :yesnod: Email Jeff Kopp (18carfan) at superchevyparts@worldnet.att.net . He can probably give you the best deal.


[Modified by billreid1@***.net, 6:17 PM 3/4/2002]


[Modified by billreid1@***.net, 6:17 PM 3/4/2002]

 

I agree with the zz4 . looking back, I wish i would have done it.... i got the short block and edelbrock heads...For the price, you can't beat it...

 

Does anyone have 1/4 mile times with just a zz4 swap?

 

Maybe someone will chime in with a ZZ4 but it is my understanding though that the stock TPI and stock exhaust will not allow the ZZ4 to properly breath and obtain the advertised horsepower/torque numbers. It will certainly be a dramatic improvement over the tired L98. With a good set of long tube headers with supporting exhaust along with intake improvements you could easily obtain LT4 numbers or maybe slightly higher with a ZZ4. In retrospect I wish I would have done the ZZ4 motor... it would have been cheaper for me to buy it as opposed to rebuilding the L98 I have. All it takes is money :D

 

What about a Jasper replacement engine? Anybody tried one of those?

 

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. :cheers:

It sounds like a couple of you have had your L98 rebuilt and wish you would have gone with the ZZ4 instead. I don't want to have to
spend more money to do the job twice, rebuild once then replace once.

I do have a question about smog. :eek: Once you get the engine in and swap out the carb. manifold and put on the
TPI, the EEC then controls everything like it does now and all of the sensors (MAP, Manifold pressure etc.) are in the
TPI manifold. Am I correct?

I'm not in a smog check area now but it's only a matter of time when my area will fall under the DEQ's rules to have
your car smog checked. :sad:

Those that have the ZZ4 engine, what will I have to pull off of my L98 or just buy new to make this a complete
engine? Starter and ??. Also will my A/C compressor line up with this engine?

Mark :seeya

 

If you select ZZ4 you shouldn't have any swap problems... get ahold of Jeff Kopp... I'm sure he can get you the details.

 

This is not meant to be a flame on the ZZ4 recommendation, but just some experience I have seen of the ZZ4 engines. I was at the track this past summer and a guy unloaded a really nice camaro in the spot next to me. Since we were early I had a chance to speak with him for a while and found out he had recently dropped a zz4 crate engine in the Camaro. I was very anchious to see him run, for it was before I started buying all my equipment for my upgrades. I was thinking at the time I too would opt to buy one of them if the car performed well. Its definately cheaper, trust me. He told me all about the install, ect. He let me look over the engine and it looked really nice. Headers and all. Well race time came and I positioned myself behind him so I could see the car run. I was VERY disappointed in the times he was turning 16's and 17's all day long. At one point he expressed such discust that I suggested we check the timing ect. All items checked out. He too was hoping that it was something of that nature. After we checked it all out he was so discusted that he loaded the car and left. Now you can say that it was the driver, but I have seen the guy at the races before and he is a pretty decent/consistant driver.
On the other hand he may very well have gotten a turd from the factory, but I highly doubt that. Who knows. Its just an experience that I encountered and it made me spend much more money and go the route that I did, so I thought I would pass it along. As I stated above, this is only one incident and it may not be a good representation of the whole zz4 population. Good Luck.

 

There was something wrong with that thing. My Z71 pick up truck will run a mid to low 17

 

On a 100% stock Vette you might gain 15hp from a ZZ4 swap. The only performance differences in ZZ4 is higher compression (if you have a pre 90 motor) and ZZ4 cam. The heads are exactly the same. The bottom end uses better parts than the stock L98. You could also buy a ZZ4 short block and reuse (rebuild) you stock heads and top end parts to save a little money.

You could probably get close to the advertised number if you put on open headers and SR intake (remember the ZZ4 advertised number are with high flow intake manifold, aftermarket carb and 1 7/8" headers, so sticking a zz4 in a stock carb car will not make the advertised number either unless the stock parts are upgraded)

 

I would be tempted to have my original heads freshened or buy new afr190's and then get a

350 4 - Bolt Main L31 Shortblock Price: $1,199.95 Part # 12556121
Block: Cast Iron 4 - Bolt
Rear Seal: 1 - Piece
Crankshaft: Nodular Iron
Stroke: 3.480"
Pistons: Cast Dish 4VR (-13cc)
Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 w/ 64cc heads
Compression Ratio: 8.3:1 w/ 72cc heads

or a

350 4 - Bolt Main ZZ4 Shortblock Price: $1,945.00 Part # 12561723
Block: Cast Iron, 4- Bolt
Rear Seal: 1 - Piece
Crankshaft: Forged Steel
Stroke: 3.480"
Pistons: Hypereutectic 4VR Flat Top
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 w/ 64cc heads
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1 w/ 76cc heads

Nodular Iron cranks are pretty tough ... should be good to 350HP easy.
AS best as I have looked up (not personal experience) most L98's dont go
much over 300HP.

Personally I'll be VERY SATISFIED with 300HP at the rear wheels.

Mike