Visor Removal & Installation


New Visors from Ebay

Remove plastic lid (2-torx screws). Remove 8mm nut and discard.

Remove and save the spring.

Carefully pull the cable and disconnect. Remove old visor. You may need a small hammer to tap it out.

Old and New

To install, reverse the process.

Parts came with new fasteners

I applied red thread lock. Why? Because I can


Nice, the way it should have come from factory. No flexible corners.


I still have the old visors. The mirrors and light frame are in outstanding condition. PM if you need them.










Last edited by PLRX; Aug 7, 2012 at 03:55 PM.

Disappointed with the way my "fabric" ones wore over the years (high humidity & UV rays here in FL) I wanted to go with a more durable vinyl covering on mine. A few months back I purchased a set of "used" but super clean vinyl covered sunvisors (both with lighted vanity mirrors) out of a 1990 Chrysler Town & Country (Maserati edition) which required very little work to adapted to fit the C4. Pretty much only had to turn the C4's visor shaft's down to 8mm diameter, shorten the overall length about a 1/2". Anyway TC these might be an alternative for those that are interested...got a great deal on mine only cost $30.

New Visors from Ebay

Remove plastic lid (2-torx screws). Remove 8mm nut and discard.

Remove and save the spring.

Carefully pull the cable and disconnect. Remove old visor. You may need a small hammer to tap it out.

Old and New

To install, reverse the process.

Parts came with new fasteners

I applied red thread lock. Why? Because I can


Nice, the way it should have come from factory. No flexible corners.


I still have the old visors. The mirrors and light frame are in outstanding condition. PM if you need them.





I was forced to press down and turn on the nut. Not a big deal unless/until you cross-thread the nut. If you're forced to press down and load that spring, the finesse necessary to "feel" if your nut is cross-threading is lost.
One side did start to cross-thread. After using a tap/die set to straighten it, the 2nd time was successful. Had it not, I would have been up chit-creek with a wasted pair of visors.
I bought mine from Willcox several years ago. I had them for years before installation. They were the less expensive option of the two options they carry (carried?).
I sent Willcox and FYI about this early this summer. I didn't get a reply, though I indicated it was an FYI. This may have been an isolated incident from years ago, or it may still exist with some aftermarket (non-OEM) replacements.
This post is intended (as the OPs) as purely informational. It's something to look out for -- and hopefully avoid -- if you run into the same issue.
If you're thinking why didn't I use the old spring retainers, I tried them too. It appeared the studs were also a hair smaller. So, the two didn't have same-size parts.
I was forced to press down and turn on the nut. Not a big deal unless/until you cross-thread the nut. If you're forced to press down and load that spring, the finesse necessary to "feel" if your nut is cross-threading is lost.
One side did start to cross-thread. After using a tap/die set to straighten it, the 2nd time was successful. Had it not, I would have been up chit-creek with a wasted pair of visors.
I bought mine from Willcox several years ago. I had them for years before installation. They were the less expensive option of the two options they carry (carried?).
I sent Willcox and FYI about this early this summer. I didn't get a reply, though I indicated it was an FYI. This may have been an isolated incident from years ago, or it may still exist with some aftermarket (non-OEM) replacements.
This post is intended (as the OPs) as purely informational. It's something to look out for -- and hopefully avoid -- if you run into the same issue.
If you're thinking why didn't I use the old spring retainers, I tried them too. It appeared the studs were also a hair smaller. So, the two didn't have same-size parts.






