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What is the correct resistance I should get when on a spark plug wire?
My coil wire is reading 18K, just trying to verify if thats correct or not. Regardless of which scale I use it doesn't zero out.
thanks
Give or take, that is about right. Remember, those were aftermarket wires and not stock wires. Stock wires are higher in resistance.
Why should it? Zero resistance is almost impossible. There is always resistance.
Gotcha! Makes sense. I was testing my coil wire which is a long Accel wire and was reading 18K. (troubleshooting a no spark), anyways wanted to be sure that I was within range of suppling the correct spark from the coil to cap. So based on that I would say my wire is good.
thanks
Now since I know my coil wire is ok. I'd like to test my coil. I have one of those spark plug testers that look like a spark plug but with a clamp so I can attach it to ground. (to verify spark). Can I safely place it at the end of the coil wire and test? Shouldn't be any different than locating it at the spark plug location I'm assuming
Now since I know my coil wire is ok. I'd like to test my coil. I have one of those spark plug testers that look like a spark plug but with a clamp so I can attach it to ground. (to verify spark). Can I safely place it at the end of the coil wire and test? Shouldn't be any different than locating it at the spark plug location I'm assuming
Should be just fine doing it that way. Have you tried running the car in a dark garage and spraying water mist? If it lights up like the 4th of July nights you have a wiring issue.
Ed,
Be sure to twist, turn and wiggle those wires while ohm testing. It will show a bad wire easier.
I've been doing that. The coil wire is new (not that that makes a differance). But I don't have any spark to any of the plug locations.
My checklist is
1) Test sparkplug wire
2) completed testing my wire connections I made to make sure the wires were good
3) turn ignition key on and verify 12 volts betwen the Red wire to the coil and its ground.
4) Test to make sure the coil wire is indeed sending its spark through that wire.
5) double check the 3 plug in connections at the distributor location.
To me anyways this seems like a "main spark" issue
Test your coil. I am suspecting the module in the distributor is bad.
That would stink. The distributor is new.
This is all part of the conversion I've done.
New Parts are Summit Remote Coil, 92 camaro small cap distributor, Large cap to small cap wire harness,MSD cap,Accel coil wire.
Anyway to actually test the ignition module? Or just finish testing my coil an assume the module is bad?
I am suspecting the module in the distributor is bad.
bad news; HEI ign modules (both big and small hei) are so vulnerable to failure that i carry a spare and necessry tools (only a couple) in every hei vehicle i own.
good news; only takes abt 5 minutes to change one (including MANDATORY heat trans grease)...also, v6 and v8 small hei's use same module, low $ new or j-y supply
btw, best way to KILL a hei dizzy module: pull a plug wire and hold the wire 1/2'' from ground while 'testing' for spark (spark takes 'ez' path to ground while still inside dizzy cap, THRU ign module, zap)
Put my spark plug tester on the coil wire. Got spark but seems weak... but its there I guess.
Reattach to distributor cap. Went to plug number 1 and attached tester. Turned over a few times and couldn't see a spark. At one point while turning over it "popped as if it was gonna start up. But that had to have been my imagination. The very first time I tried to start this up after my conversion it had popped through the tb, a lot of smoke but I'm assuming that was just unburnt fuel in the intake.
So it does seem like I've got a bad ignition module in there. Guess I will call Advance Auto to get them to warrantee it.
Redrose... are you saying the way I'm testing for spark is not correct? If not how should I be doing it?
thanks
Are you running an ign. box(msd type)? Anytime I disconnect my wiring for the dist, coil, & ign. box I have to look at the diagram to make sure its conncted right. It has those spade connectors.
You could get the module tested at the big auto chain stores. I'm not sure if they test coils though. You've got main power to the coil, check the other wire for a pulsing signal, this is what fires off the coil, so check it w/ someone is cranking the engine over. It should flash on & off.
Are you running an ign. box(msd type)? Anytime I disconnect my wiring for the dist, coil, & ign. box I have to look at the diagram to make sure its conncted right. It has those spade connectors.
You could get the module tested at the big auto chain stores. I'm not sure if they test coils though. You've got main power to the coil, check the other wire for a pulsing signal, this is what fires off the coil, so check it w/ someone is cranking the engine over. It should flash on & off.
Look at the rotor, in the center there is a hemispherical depression. If you ever have an open circuit plug wire the coil sparks through this point and makes a carbon path to ground and from then on it sparks through the carbon track and not to the plugs. Also, you don't need any aftermarket spark system, the GM system has plenty of spark energy and is way more reliable than any aftermarket system.
Redrose... are you saying the way I'm testing for spark is not correct? If not how should I be doing it?
don't know how you are doin it, no critique possible...best way for DIY (no high $ 'sillyscope',etc) is one of those 'imitation-spark-plug-in clear -tube-with-spring-clamp-for-assured-ground' tools (?) that sell for abt $12 IIRC (corvette tax obviously already included)...not-so-good (my way); clamp a pair of vicegrips to any steel/alum bracket on the engine and force hex of an unused spark plug (gapped .050-.060) in between the vicegrip handles
Look at the rotor, in the center there is a hemispherical depression. If you ever have an open circuit plug wire the coil sparks through this point and makes a carbon path to ground and from then on it sparks through the carbon track and not to the plugs. Also, you don't need any aftermarket spark system, the GM system has plenty of spark energy and is way more reliable than any aftermarket system.
Nice explaination. However I have no choice but to go aftermarket. I went from CFI to HSR. Requires a small cap distributor, I had a large cap HEI. I do agree the GM is just as good if not better, but since the aftermarket is cheaper than GM I went that route.
Originally Posted by redrose
don't know how you are doin it, no critique possible...best way for DIY (no high $ 'sillyscope',etc) is one of those 'imitation-spark-plug-in clear -tube-with-spring-clamp-for-assured-ground' tools (?) that sell for abt $12 IIRC (corvette tax obviously already included)...not-so-good (my way); clamp a pair of vicegrips to any steel/alum bracket on the engine and force hex of an unused spark plug (gapped .050-.060) in between the vicegrip handles
What I'm using is a HEI spark tester from advance auto $10. Looks just like a spark plug but has a built in clamp thats on the side of it. You are suppose to plug it into the wire then clamp to a ground. Which I clamp it to the bolt holding the alternator bracket. Spark is just an inch or so from the clamp when testing.
Is there a way for you to test the coil? Maybe put a known good one?
Yes... I placed my spark tester into the end of the coil wire (that goes to the cap) and turned the engine over. I did see spark on that. Seemed weak but I did have spark.