I am still chasing a high speed vibration. I have now replaced both rear hubs and the vibration has definitely been reduced. I would say that vibration levels at 70 MPH are about half of what they were before. The info I got from this forum was a big help in preparing me for the job of replacing those rear hubs. After reading the advice of several different contributors, I knew that I needed a 36 mm socket and a T55 torx tool.

Here are my questions: What kind of problems should I expect when I go to replace the front hubs? Are they harder or easier than the rears? Any other special tools needed? Additional advice?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Greg Sullivan (Canyon Lake, CA.)

 

Front hubs are very easy. Remove caliper and rotor. Hub is held on by 4 bolts.

 

Ditto....should take you about 10 minutes per side once you get the rotors off the car.

 

The front ones will be a breeze after doing the rears. 45 minutes for both sides. very easy.
:chevy

 

Great! Thanks for the feedback. Now I can dive into this project without worrying about running into some unanticipated requirement for a special tool.


thanks again,
Greg Sullivan

 

greg,

I need to replace one of my rear hubs due to a busted lug. Since you have just done this, any advise? did you buy oem?

Thanks,

Chuck

 

:confused: Why??? Replacing the lug is an easy exercise. Press the broken one out, and pull the new one through. It isn't any big deal.

Now, if you had some play in the bearing AND you had a broken stud I could see replacing the whole thing.

I've had to replace studs dozens of times since I bought this car. I change the tires an average of 6x a month during the racing season. I've gotten very efficient at this.


[Modified by Joe90, 8:19 AM 3/6/2002]

 

joe90

sweet! thanks

Special tool needed or what did you use to get it out/ put in?

 

There are many lines of contention on how to remove them. I just give them a sharp rap with a 5 lb hand maul. When I'm racing I don't have the time/patience to bring along a press to push them out. You can use a large C-clamp with a socket on the backside to allow the socket someplace to go while you're pushing it out. There is a special tool designed to do this, but it is far more money and you won't use it as often as you can a C-clamp.

To install them, all you need is 2 regular nuts that fit the 10MM threads and 2 thick washers. Put grease between the washers and then put both nuts on top of them.

If you have air tools and an impact wrench, use a deepwell socket and turn them until the back is seated on the hub. If you don't have air tools, use a breaker-bar to pull them on.

You can do all of this with the hubs ON THE CAR!!! You will have to move the hub around until you find the place that allows you to get the stud out/in. If you are on the drivers side, the rear hub location to allow this is around 10-11 o'clock. Passengers side rear hub is around 1-2 o'clock. There is a lot more room on the front hubs to get them out...just turn it until you find the place.

There are those who say that using the maul to drive the studs out will ruin your bearings. All I can say is that I did this procedure for 9 years and 68k miles before I had to replace the bearings. In those miles were many road and autocross events where I was winning 1st places regularly. In other words, the cars bearings had a lot of hard use with racing tires for those 9 years. I don't think anything I did made them fail prematurely.

The choice is yours on how to remove them. Hope this helps...


[Modified by Joe90, 9:07 AM 3/7/2002]

 

awesome thanks for your help

Chuck