C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Damaged FlexPlate

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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 03:18 PM
  #1  
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Default Damaged FlexPlate

1996 LT1

My son called and told me he ran over something and damaged his flexplate. Now he's getting a grinding sound when he starts the engine. Grinding sound on one attempt then engages correctly on the next. So he's looking at changing the flexplate.

Question is: Is there enough clearance to remove the flexplate by just unbolting and sliding the converter rearward?

Thanks,

Jake
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 03:41 PM
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I've never tried but provided that the flexplate bolts back out without stripping the heads/corners off from the limited wrenching space - I still don't think it can be done without backing all the tranny's bell housing bolts out to gain some extra space to slip the plate out. The Flexplate ends up almost flush when mounted on the "step" portion of the crankshaft but the converter (depends on the converter) slides about a 3/8" to a 1/2" into the crankshaft to keep things lined up. So with that in mind and condsidering the thickness (1/2" of the toothed portion of the flexplate) the converter would need to slide back to ~1" or more to clear everything to slip the plate out.

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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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The flex plate bolts to the crank. Now how do you think you can unbolt it without removing the trans.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by vettestir1
The flex plate bolts to the crank. Now how do you think you can unbolt it without removing the trans.
Apparently you didn't think all the way through this before you responded.

No need to remove the trans. Worse case would be to loosen (not remove) the trans to block bolts, etc., and slide the trans rearward a half inch or so.

But I'm thinking instead I can remove the 3 bolts holding the converter to the flexplate, then slide the converter rearward into the trans. Then use a box end wrench to remove the flexplate to crank bolts, then remove the flexplate.

I've done that to check the torque on the flexplate bolts (w/o using a torque wrench) but never actually tried completely removing the plate.

I just thought that someone had already tried this. Think I'll give it a try; nothing to lose.

Jake
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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i haven't seen a 96 vettes trans but i was under the assumption they were the newer style case with the removable bellhousing that encloses the whole converter.. it must be the old style if you are considering sliding it back.. you are going to have to pretty much remove everything you would have to remove everything as if you were going to pull the trans in order to slide it back enough to get to the bolts so i don't see a benefit. besides you really want to make sure those bolts are tightened correctly. but i know you probably know this well enough.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 96z51
i haven't seen a 96 vettes trans but i was under the assumption they were the newer style case with the removable bellhousing that encloses the whole converter.. it must be the old style if you are considering sliding it back.. you are going to have to pretty much remove everything you would have to remove everything as if you were going to pull the trans in order to slide it back enough to get to the bolts so i don't see a benefit. besides you really want to make sure those bolts are tightened correctly. but i know you probably know this well enough.
No the bell housing isn't removable. And yes you're right, I know what'll be involved if I can't get the clearance I need using plan "A"

Worse case, the entire trans would have to be slid rearward which would involve removing things rearward of the trans. That's what I'm trying to avoid; if possible.

At most I'd only need a couple of inches.

Jake
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #7  
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From: Ft Wayne IN
Default flexplate

Jake
I have one for sale in the sale forum. It is off a 92. just thought I would throw that out there if your in need of one thanks.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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From: Carmichael ca
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It can be done without completely removing the trans. It needs to come back about 2-3 inches, far enough to get a torque wrench and socket on the crank bolts.
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