Another 383 build question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
Another 383 build question
I've read quite a few posts but didn't find exactly what I was looking for so here goes another question (or 2).
I am considering 2 blocks, was wondering which one was the better deal.
1. 350 block from 95 w/ 100K including normal shortblock internals. $350
2. 350 4 bolt block bare (unknown year but assuming LT1) but the shop won't sell it unless they do the machining $900.
Option 1 gives me the option to stay stock, but if I decide to go 383 it may not matter.
Which leads to ? 2, What should I expect to pay for decent internals for a 383 block? I'm not talking race engine but best bang for the buck on a street rod. I will be putting on stock ported heads, ported intake w/ 58 TB, LT headers, 1.6 rockers and custom cam.
I am considering 2 blocks, was wondering which one was the better deal.
1. 350 block from 95 w/ 100K including normal shortblock internals. $350
2. 350 4 bolt block bare (unknown year but assuming LT1) but the shop won't sell it unless they do the machining $900.
Option 1 gives me the option to stay stock, but if I decide to go 383 it may not matter.
Which leads to ? 2, What should I expect to pay for decent internals for a 383 block? I'm not talking race engine but best bang for the buck on a street rod. I will be putting on stock ported heads, ported intake w/ 58 TB, LT headers, 1.6 rockers and custom cam.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 76
From: Santa Maria, CA
I've read quite a few posts but didn't find exactly what I was looking for so here goes another question (or 2).
I am considering 2 blocks, was wondering which one was the better deal.
1. 350 block from 95 w/ 100K including normal shortblock internals. $350
2. 350 4 bolt block bare (unknown year but assuming LT1) but the shop won't sell it unless they do the machining $900.
Option 1 gives me the option to stay stock, but if I decide to go 383 it may not matter.
Which leads to ? 2, What should I expect to pay for decent internals for a 383 block? I'm not talking race engine but best bang for the buck on a street rod. I will be putting on stock ported heads, ported intake w/ 58 TB, LT headers, 1.6 rockers and custom cam.
I am considering 2 blocks, was wondering which one was the better deal.
1. 350 block from 95 w/ 100K including normal shortblock internals. $350
2. 350 4 bolt block bare (unknown year but assuming LT1) but the shop won't sell it unless they do the machining $900.
Option 1 gives me the option to stay stock, but if I decide to go 383 it may not matter.
Which leads to ? 2, What should I expect to pay for decent internals for a 383 block? I'm not talking race engine but best bang for the buck on a street rod. I will be putting on stock ported heads, ported intake w/ 58 TB, LT headers, 1.6 rockers and custom cam.
You won't need a 58mm TB with this build. The stock should be adequate.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 7
From: Ft Wayne IN
I am building a 383 and after lots of dedating I went with the Scat 9000 series crank , forged rods and SRP pistons/rings. This will come with all King bearings and a pionere flex plate. $1,300 from Scat.
I would at least clean-up the plenum runners and port match to your heads. 52mm TB would be a good addition. You will probably end up with close to $6,000 in parts. It's the little things that add up quick. Machine work will be Just under the $1,000 mark depending on what you have done. good luck.
I would at least clean-up the plenum runners and port match to your heads. 52mm TB would be a good addition. You will probably end up with close to $6,000 in parts. It's the little things that add up quick. Machine work will be Just under the $1,000 mark depending on what you have done. good luck.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
I would at least clean-up the plenum runners and port match to your heads. 52mm TB would be a good addition. You will probably end up with close to $6,000 in parts. It's the little things that add up quick. Machine work will be Just under the $1,000 mark depending on what you have done. good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 7
From: Ft Wayne IN
For you that should be running I would think. The problem is before you know it you will be replacing misc. sensors, hoses, wires, distributor, belts and on and on. You don't want to put a new engine back in the car and spend all your time chasing down grimmlens that's why alot of questionable thins are replaced.
Know depending on how much tourqe /HP you end up with and the cam you select you may need to replace tourqe converter for a higher stall and the tranny isn't going to last to long with a heavy foot and 450hp.
Is your wallet hurting yet
I think you get the idea.
Know depending on how much tourqe /HP you end up with and the cam you select you may need to replace tourqe converter for a higher stall and the tranny isn't going to last to long with a heavy foot and 450hp.
Is your wallet hurting yet I think you get the idea.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
What about this block. It seems like a good buy if its not junk.
CPE (Cook Performance Engines)
Block -Baked, Steel Shot, Magnafluxed, Square Decked with BHJ block tru, Bored, Honed with torque plates and jet cleaned.
Crank -Eagle Cast Steel 3.75" Stroke Internally Balanced
Rods -Eagle SIR 5.7" With ARP 8740 rod bolts
Pistons -SPEED PRO
Rings -PERFECT CIRCLE Plasma-Moly
Bearings -Clevite
Core Plugs -Brass
Main Stud -ARP Main Stud Kit
$1995
+$300 shipping
CPE (Cook Performance Engines)
Block -Baked, Steel Shot, Magnafluxed, Square Decked with BHJ block tru, Bored, Honed with torque plates and jet cleaned.
Crank -Eagle Cast Steel 3.75" Stroke Internally Balanced
Rods -Eagle SIR 5.7" With ARP 8740 rod bolts
Pistons -SPEED PRO
Rings -PERFECT CIRCLE Plasma-Moly
Bearings -Clevite
Core Plugs -Brass
Main Stud -ARP Main Stud Kit
$1995
+$300 shipping
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
What about this block. It seems like a good buy if its not junk.
CPE (Cook Performance Engines)
Block -Baked, Steel Shot, Magnafluxed, Square Decked with BHJ block tru, Bored, Honed with torque plates and jet cleaned.
Crank -Eagle Cast Steel 3.75" Stroke Internally Balanced
Rods -Eagle SIR 5.7" With ARP 8740 rod bolts
Pistons -SPEED PRO
Rings -PERFECT CIRCLE Plasma-Moly
Bearings -Clevite
Core Plugs -Brass
Main Stud -ARP Main Stud Kit
$1995
+$300 shipping
CPE (Cook Performance Engines)
Block -Baked, Steel Shot, Magnafluxed, Square Decked with BHJ block tru, Bored, Honed with torque plates and jet cleaned.
Crank -Eagle Cast Steel 3.75" Stroke Internally Balanced
Rods -Eagle SIR 5.7" With ARP 8740 rod bolts
Pistons -SPEED PRO
Rings -PERFECT CIRCLE Plasma-Moly
Bearings -Clevite
Core Plugs -Brass
Main Stud -ARP Main Stud Kit
$1995
+$300 shipping
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
Check this ad out on Racing Junk depending on your budget as this may not be a bad deal.
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/9...VERYTHING.html
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/9...VERYTHING.html
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
I hate to say it but $4500 for block alone is out of my league. I won't be racing this car. It is just a weekend driver. Not to say I won't take it to the 1/4 track once or twice. When I did the search I actually found little said about the negative on the Eagle. But, I didn't spend a couple hours reading either. I'm guessing it wouldn't cost much to upgrade to the scat rods though. Have you heard of CPE?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
I hate to say it but $4500 for block alone is out of my league. I won't be racing this car. It is just a weekend driver. Not to say I won't take it to the 1/4 track once or twice. When I did the search I actually found little said about the negative on the Eagle. But, I didn't spend a couple hours reading either. I'm guessing it wouldn't cost much to upgrade to the scat rods though. Have you heard of CPE?
If your going to build a stroker the Scat I beam with the 7/16 bolts is a good choice as it has plenty of cam clearnace then a stock rods and pan rail clearance as well. Ans u can find them for about 300.00 dollars
I have sen guys take new stock replacement Scat rods and hack them up on the top of the rod bolt and the edge of the rods.
Good luck with your build
Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 725
Likes: 4
From: Plano, TX
Bill,
That CPE motor you are looking at is a really good deal. I was going to recommend them to you but you already found them. For about 700 more you can get splayed mains and forged pistons. I believe the shortblock comes with a 3yr warranty. They sell alot of LT1's on Ebay. I would check with "tpi 421 vette" about a good deals on some brand new AFR heads 195cc street heads for that shortblock. You can get them for almost as cheap as ported stockers and they are brand new come with springs and guideplates and outflow the stockers by about 30cfm across the board. Take care
Steve
That CPE motor you are looking at is a really good deal. I was going to recommend them to you but you already found them. For about 700 more you can get splayed mains and forged pistons. I believe the shortblock comes with a 3yr warranty. They sell alot of LT1's on Ebay. I would check with "tpi 421 vette" about a good deals on some brand new AFR heads 195cc street heads for that shortblock. You can get them for almost as cheap as ported stockers and they are brand new come with springs and guideplates and outflow the stockers by about 30cfm across the board. Take care
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
Check with Chad a http://www.golenengineservice.com/ as they build alot of LT1 engines.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
Take their rods break them down and retorque them and see if they repeat??
