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Cloyes make a nice SBC double roller. You would have to switch to an electric water pump because there is no provision for a water pump drive gear. Only other option is LT4 extreme duty chain and its big bucks.
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Is this 1/4" slop found after both new cam and crank timing gears were installed as well as new cam and main bearings? If so,that may be the best you can get unless you want to try another new set. They sometimes will vary slightly. You might even call Cloyes tech since they actually made the factory timing set to see if they even offer the factory single roller style chain and gear set undersize ,but I doubt it. They will probably just tell you that the 1/4" is acceptable and not to worry about it.
I have bought undersize double roller sets direct from them before and Cloyes tech was very helpful.
Rick
another forum member mentioned installing the lower sprocket in the 4 degree advanced position; presumably to accommodate future (or initial ?) timing chain stretch ? cited David Vizard's book as basis for doing so.
I had the exact same condition with I changed heads, cam, chain set, etc., on my son's 96 LT1 a few months ago. New chain had the same slack as the 111K unit I removed. Had I known that I would have skipped buying a new one.
I later read that high mileage LT chains show very little wear/slack as compared to earlier versions.
BTW, when I degreed-in the new CompCams cam, it hit spot on.
When I did my cam install many years back, I had the same issue with chain slack on the old and new timing chain. I did a internet search on the issue and found that it was a common issue on the LT1 motor.
At that time, you could get a Cloyes over size crank sprocket to fix the chain slack. So my fix was installing the oversize crank sprocket and it tighten up the chain slack.
When I did my cam install many years back, I had the same issue with chain slack on the old and new timing chain. I did a internet search on the issue and found that it was a common issue on the LT1 motor.
At that time, you could get a Cloyes over size crank sprocket to fix the chain slack. So my fix was installing the oversize crank sprocket and it tighten up the chain slack.
When I replaced my son's 115k chain set with a new GM set and the slack was exactly the same, that told me something - tight wasn't the way to go. Even on motorcycle chains, you don't want it tight; accelerates wear. Tight creates friction and friction creates heat and accelerates wear.
So, my information is just the opposite. I'll see if I can find the reference again post it here. Then we can compare notes.
The reasoning given for the longer chain life was the chain oiling mods GM made. Drilling holes in the oil gallery plugs to allow direct pressure oiling to the chain and gears. It didn't say when that mod was made though. That's something I did to the race engines I built many years before GM started doing it. It was an 'Old Racer's' trick.
They sell a oversized gear to take up the slack. I need to get one the next time I have mine apart. After a line bore mine is a bit loose to. I found this after mine was up and running.
Great info guys!!! I suspect that the cam gear is made slightly "undersize" for who knows why. That would account for the slop assuming the use of a standard SB chain. I had a 350 truck motor where the chain rubbed thru the front cover....
Back then, Thunder Racing, and More Performance sold the oversize sprocket for the LT1 chain set. But when I was looking for the part, More Performance was closing down and Thunder Racing was out of stock, so I went directly to Cloyes and purchased my part.
It tightend up the LT1 chain set to about how a normal small block double roller chain set feels.