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I've ripped Z51 springs and shocks out of a
n 88' to put in my car. While Im replacing them, I was considering replacing all the bushing, and possibly changing out the sway bars. I have a base model 88' Auto, and It's basically a summer DD/drag/autox car.
I saw THIS. I know Poly bushings will help stiffen the ride a little, and I've also been told to properly lubricate before pressing them in.
ANyone have any first hand experience/advice? I have heard a few negative remarks about going full poly bushings, and I wanted to make sure it was a worthwhile investment before i pulled the trigger.
It depends on what you want from the car. Those that want to tighten up the ride and are ready to deal with the increased suspension stiffness like them. If you live in an area that has decent roads (not in the snow belt) you would probably be fine driving the car. We also carry a full car kit, on our website. Call if you have any questions.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
If you go poly get lots of extra grease.
I did all but the batwing bushings 0n my 92 a year ago with the energy suspension bushings and I have no complaints.
Thanks for the responses guys, I'm not to worried about how harsh the ride as anyways, I have another car if I get sick of it.
I can't stand squat and roll, and I've been told poly bushings are a fairly inexpensive way to tighten everything up.
Now for my last question. Im guessing these bushings are a tight fit, how are you guys pushing/pressing the bushings in? and what type of grease should i use?
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
I got a Harbor Freight ball joint press (looks like a big C-clamp)
With it, drill pits. hack saw, dry wall saw I was able to get all the old bushings out.
The only bushing that was difficult to put back on the car was the rear arms from the dana to the knuckle. It was only the dana side that gave me trouble.
With the grease and the two piece bushings it was not that hard to put them in.
I had to buy the two sway arm kits to match the size of my sway arm. The hard ones were on the end of the sway bar.
I did my whole car front and rear last year, using the red Prothane from Summit and black Energy for the sway bars and replaced all ball joints at the same time. Huge difference, really tightens the car up. Some people say dont use the red coz it squeeks but i have had no issues, just follow the instructions on lubing, only put the lube between the outside of the metal sleeve and the urethane, they have machined slots in them so you know where to put it, and dont put it anywhere else.
It depends on what you want from the car. Those that want to tighten up the ride and are ready to deal with the increased suspension stiffness like them. If you live in an area that has decent roads (not in the snow belt) you would probably be fine driving the car. We also carry a full car kit, on our website. Call if you have any questions.
800-442-0335
Your, "Corvette Parts Online" link does not work for me, the other links on your web site work....
It depends on what you want from the car. Those that want to tighten up the ride and are ready to deal with the increased suspension stiffness like them. If you live in an area that has decent roads (not in the snow belt) you would probably be fine driving the car. We also carry a full car kit, on our website. Call if you have any questions.
I rebuilt mine with the VB&P Extreme Touring setup. It really stiffened up the car, and the ride height adjustability is very nice. You just have to raise the car up and turn a screw for the front.
I rebuilt mine with the VB&P Extreme Touring setup. It really stiffened up the car, and the ride height adjustability is very nice. You just have to raise the car up and turn a screw for the front.
Keep in mind that the poly doesn't last a long as the OEM product. They do wear out.
Energy Suspension has been very good and we're going to try a harder polyurethane. Delrin is a better choice for a track car. A lot of people use aluminum bushings. That's not a good idea for the street though.
My whole rear suspension needs to be rebuilt. Take a look at this Vette Brakes bracket that I took off the car today.
I think what happened here was the poly bushing broke up on the end of the lower strut rod.
That set off a series of events that caused the entire rear suspension to destroy itself. The interesting thing was the only handling issue was excessive oversteer on the exit.
I put the energy suspension poly bushings in my car several years ago, back when it was a daily driver. It did tighten it up quite a bit. Yes it rides stiffer, but it is a sports car. If I wanted to know what it felt like to drive a sofa down the street I would have just bought a C5.
I put the energy suspension poly bushings in my car several years ago, back when it was a daily driver. It did tighten it up quite a bit. Yes it rides stiffer, but it is a sports car. If I wanted to know what it felt like to drive a sofa down the street I would have just bought a C5.
Wasn't my point, I have the Z51 package which is stiff...was thinking i may need new shocks, only had this car a couple of months, car has 75 K...not sure when the shocks have been changed if at all...