cslater

I started this thread to document several projects and several technical fix's I have performed on my NEW 94 Corvette,As we know as long as only one part survives IT Never dies.

Check back as I only do this at night when I am finished working
but the projects are:

1)CSR electric waterpump install (Overheat project with 160 Thermo and Hypertech reprogramming)
2)R&D Camber brace install
3)Surging and dying issue info
4)PKE Issues and KEYFOB BS
5)Cold air intake issues and a lot of good info on alternatives
6)Radio and antenna upgrades
7)OPI info and general ignition issues with vettes
8)FREAKIN Door rattle and falling off repairs that will last a lifetime
9)Door strip repair
10)Console issues BU Switch and Shifter repairs
11)And a bunch more

cslater

Part one is drain the entire engine of coolant,this entails removal of the lower radiator hose and opening the bleeder on the thermo housing and waiting,also open the filler reserve pressure cap.

Remove the air cleaner,the airpump hose,the MAF and AIT TEMP sensor wires ,4 waterpump hoses and the throttle body hose,remove the coil wires and remove the serpentine belt.Remove the temp sensor wires on the pump,remove the 6 screws that hold the pump onto the block,pump should fall off the block,unless its baked on with Permatex #
BTW:
Removal may be easier if you temp relocate the AC drier and collector
by simply pulling it up and laying it on the radiator shroud.

Remove the thermostat housing and stat,remove the temp sensor,
remove the screws for impeller housing.
take a 3/4 deep socket put under pump bearing on backside of pump set down so the water inlets are suspended off the ground by the socket and the socket fits in the area of the bearing rim on the backside of the pump.Unless you have a press you can block it up with.
I had to heat the impeller till it was red hot then wack the shaft with a 3/8 drift pin punch 3 or 4 times to drive it down and out of the impeller
you basically have to crush the shaft,its hollow,
once that is done and the impeller is out you can drive out the bearing and seal assmbly out the back of the pump,IMPORTANT Support the bearing from the back side when hammering out the shaft or you will crack the housing and your toast.
Next step get housing clean and install freeze plug dimple side to the inside flush with the inside face of the housing using Permatex#2 or similiar sealer(Important make sure plug is flush and sealed good,like you would do a block.
Next step is widening the inside housing surface inner ring to fit the CSR pump inner shoulder,just take a dremmel tool or drill and grinder and remove the needed material where the unit binds up,maybe a 1/8 or 1/4 here or there will do it.Once done clean pump throughly.
apply liberal siliconeto pump housing face and bolt together face.
reinstall temp sensor,thermostat with a 160 or 180 and housing.
bolt to block using good quality sealant ,i use either blue silicon or tack and seal on pump housing to block,if your not doing any other work
re-install the hoses and tighten clamps and refill with 50/50 and 2 btls water wetter bleed and check for leaks,

To wire,save some time and get a wireing kit,wire the PUMP supply from relay to the battery using a 15 amp fuse,find a switchible 12 volt supply,I tapped one of my fan relay leads,after all its the same purpose on its relay as the water pump lead,Make all grounds good and test by circulating water for 20 minutes,have battey charger hooked up as your battery will die die die,then run for testing till temp for period of time,

I did this conversion to beat the heat during city traffic driving in the summer using the AC,as long as it stays under 200 i will be happy
will report during JULY what happens,

AS IN ALL CASES OF THIRD PARTY INFORMATION I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR WORK OR YOUR INTERPERTATION OF MY WORK
IN ALL CASES FOLLOW ALL MANUFACTURES ADVISE AND INSTRUCTIONS IN INSTALLING THEIR RESPECTIVE PRODUCTS.

cslater

Part one is drain the entire engine of coolant,this entails removal of the lower radiator hose and opening the bleeder on the thermo housing and waiting,also open the filler reserve pressure cap.

Remove the air cleaner,the airpump hose,the MAF and AIT TEMP sensor wires ,4 waterpump hoses and the throttle body hose,remove the coil wires and remove the serpentine belt.Remove the temp sensor wires on the pump,remove the 6 screws that hold the pump onto the block,pump should fall off the block,unless its baked on with Permatex #
BTW:
Removal may be easier if you temp relocate the AC drier and collector
by simply pulling it up and laying it on the radiator shroud.

Remove the thermostat housing and stat,remove the temp sensor,
remove the screws for impeller housing.
take a 3/4 deep socket put under pump bearing on backside of pump set down so the water inlets are suspended off the ground by the socket and the socket fits in the area of the bearing rim on the backside of the pump.Unless you have a press you can block it up with.
I had to heat the impeller till it was red hot then wack the shaft with a 3/8 drift pin punch 3 or 4 times to drive it down and out of the impeller
you basically have to crush the shaft,its hollow,
once that is done and the impeller is out you can drive out the bearing and seal assmbly out the back of the pump,IMPORTANT Support the bearing from the back side when hammering out the shaft or you will crack the housing and your toast.
Next step get housing clean and install freeze plug dimple side to the inside flush with the inside face of the housing using Permatex#2 or similiar sealer(Important make sure plug is flush and sealed good,like you would do a block.
Next step is widening the inside housing surface inner ring to fit the CSR pump inner shoulder,just take a dremmel tool or drill and grinder and remove the needed material where the unit binds up,maybe a 1/8 or 1/4 here or there will do it.Once done clean pump throughly.
apply liberal siliconeto pump housing face and bolt together face.
reinstall temp sensor,thermostat with a 160 or 180 and housing.
bolt to block using good quality sealant ,i use either blue silicon or tack and seal on pump housing to block,if your not doing any other work
re-install the hoses and tighten clamps and refill with 50/50 and 2 btls water wetter bleed and check for leaks,

To wire,save some time and get a wireing kit,wire the PUMP supply from relay to the battery using a 15 amp fuse,find a switchible 12 volt supply,I tapped one of my fan relay leads,after all its the same purpose on its relay as the water pump lead,Make all grounds good and test by circulating water for 20 minutes,have battey charger hooked up as your battery will die die die,then run for testing till temp for period of time,

I did this conversion to beat the heat during city traffic driving in the summer using the AC,as long as it stays under 200 i will be happy
will report during JULY what happens,

AS IN ALL CASES OF THIRD PARTY INFORMATION I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR WORK OR YOUR INTERPERTATION OF MY WORK
IN ALL CASES FOLLOW ALL MANUFACTURES ADVISE AND INSTRUCTIONS IN INSTALLING THEIR RESPECTIVE PRODUCTS.

engle1147

Pics/video might draw an audience - some of us don't read so good - for me regardless of how "good" the info is there is nothin' more uninteresting than just pages and pages of tech "text"