C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

84 vette BRAKE FLUSH..?

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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 08:21 AM
  #1  
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Default 84 vette BRAKE FLUSH..?

Hello guys,

I am going to replace my brakes today,I am going to put slotted rotors, new s/s lines, & ofcourse new pads, replacing the seals on the calipers..

I would like to flush the system to completely clean it.. Can I just remove all the lines & let the new fluid run through?

Is there a different way I should do this?

Thanks for any advice..

Ant....
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 08:38 AM
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I would suggest getting some clear plastic tube to fit over the drains and four small containers to drain the fluid into.

Pump a couple times. add fluid to Master cylinder chambers, repeat until all the old is out.

It works pretty good if your working alone. Be sure you have nothing but clean fluid in the plastic tubes and the tubes are below the fluid level in the containers, it siphons back in when pressure comes off the pedal.

Get good fluid. Don't be cheap.

TJM
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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Thanks TJM,

I will do it the way you mentioned.. Yes I am doing it alone..
What fluid do you reccomend?

Ant...
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ant-knee470
Thanks TJM,

I will do it the way you mentioned.. Yes I am doing it alone..
What fluid do you reccomend?

Ant...

DOT 3, find one with as high a boiling point as they have 500 degrees or so.

Wilwood Hi-Temp would be great. I think it's 570 degree. $10 a bottle sounds right?

Temperature is supposedly the mark of quality?


TJM
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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Why alone?

And doing all four at the same time.....Let me do my best Carnack impression (google it)

Originally Posted by Ant-knee
I just replaced the Rotors and now I've got no pedal
So get anyone...use the small hose into a Coke bottle like TJ said. Then it is just the old "Pump, Hold Release"

Get anyone to sit inside with instruction not to "release" until you say so.

You tell them to pump....when they pump you open the bleeder valve let out a little fluid and then close it.....then you yell release.

repeat this until the fluid coming out is nice and clear, then you move to the other three. Start at the Right Rear (farthest) first and work your way to the closest.

The RR will take quite a few pumps....but the front left will take about three pumps

Do it this way just to be thorough
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Or get a power bleeder.
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TJM
DOT 3, find one with as high a boiling point as they have 500 degrees or so.

Wilwood Hi-Temp would be great. I think it's 570 degree. $10 a bottle sounds right?

Temperature is supposedly the mark of quality?


TJM
Brake fluid by rating is based on the temperature where the fluid boils. The temp figure to use for comparison is the "Wet Boiling Point", not Dry. The high end of DOT3 fluid wet temps is around 311 degrees. Above that figure is DOT4 fluids and that type goes to around 425 degrees or so.

Some good DOT3 fluids to use for street use is Castrol LMA, Ford Motorsports HD (yes, Ford.... ) or Valvoline.

At the DOT4 level, ATE Super Blue works for street use and even occasional track days. Motul 600 is another good fluid but it's more suited to track use than street use. DOT4 fluids should be changed at least annually. At the DOT5.1 level, there is Castrol SRF with a 518 degree wet boiling point but it's really a race-only fluid.

With non-ABS C4's (84-85) you can gravity bleed each caliper separately but it does take time. Having a friend to help bleed is the cheapest and easiest (unless he wants lots of beer ). A pressure bleeder is quick and doesn't have any real mess to clean up. I use Speed-Bleeders to bleed the brakes on both my Vettes.

These bleeders have an internal spring-loaded check ball that allows one person to bleed brakes. Open the bleed valve 1/4 turn and depress the brake pedal. Pressure forces out fluid and when the pedal is released the spring pushes the ball against the opening in the bleeder. I can do a complete fluid flush in about 15 minutes once the wheels are off. Not even a one-beer job.....
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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Almost done with the fronts, Should come out good, flushed lines, fluid is nice & clean now...Got both lines replaced, Got calipers painted (Red)... Ill take pics of the fronts once done...
Thanks for all the advice guys!!!

Ant....
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 05:57 PM
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Hello All.

Front brakes are done & work fantastic, Tomorrow ill do the rears..
Heres a few pics, I didnt gt any pics of the front b-4 but they looked
terrable, I show the rear for b-4 picture...

Ant...

BEFORE Picture


[/IMG]

After Picture


[/IMG]

[/IMG]
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by wobbles111
Or get a power bleeder.
Or just take out as much fluid out of the resevior as you can,then wipe out resevior with cloth-make sure no lint is left in resevior.Then open all bleeders & fill resevior & let it "gravity bleed" for awhile.Make sure it does not run low on fluid(resevior).After its bleed for awhile(using up about 3/4 qt) then close all bleeders.Get in car & pump up brake pedal till its firm.Then open all bleeders again & let it gravity bleed for about 10 mins or until rest of quart is used up.Close all bleeders & your done.Do not fill resevior all the way to the top,fill to full line.Bleed brakes once a year or once every two years unless you track car often,then bleed after each hard track session
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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gravity bleed is a joke I tryed that after an hour I got my daughter to help so I could get it done that day.
I use Valvoline synthetic dot 4 fluid
I was thinking going red on my calipers but decided to stay with silver
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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Looks great Ant........Go to Kragen and get some Chrome Lug nuts....
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 06:57 AM
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We've got a brake fluid flushing machine at work, it hooks to the master cyl. cap, I've tried but I have not been able to flush any C-4s w/ this machine. The machine is low pressure, adjustable from 5 to 25 psi, but no fluid comes out at those pressures, I'm thinking you have to press the brake pedal slightly to do the flush, something I haven't tried yet.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 09:22 AM
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Strange. I have a Motive pressure bleeder which is a small plastic tank with an internal air pump and a cap that attached to the master reservoir. I can pressurize the tank to 15psi, open a caliper bleed valve and I get fluid out in a steady stream.

There should be no need to depress the brake pedal.

If gravity bleeding works on a C4, than some amount of pressurization in the reservoir should force fluid out. The ABS unit and lines aren't bled during gravity or pressure bleeding as the pump has to be running for fluid to be moving.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
Strange. I have a Motive pressure bleeder which is a small plastic tank with an internal air pump and a cap that attached to the master reservoir. I can pressurize the tank to 15psi, open a caliper bleed valve and I get fluid out in a steady stream.

There should be no need to depress the brake pedal.

If gravity bleeding works on a C4, than some amount of pressurization in the reservoir should force fluid out. The ABS unit and lines aren't bled during gravity or pressure bleeding as the pump has to be running for fluid to be moving.
The OP does not have ABS.I never have problem gravity bleeding in years that I worked on car professionally.You just have to make sure that air does not get into system from no fluid in resevior.Gravity bleeding does work,but sometimes it can take awhile
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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All four corners are done, & car now stops on da dime.. I must say it is nice to have brakes... Thanks for all your help & advice guys!!!

Peace,

Ant....
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