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Can anyone tell me is it worth doing a .060 over on a 88 L98? I was going to do a 383 but I dont think the 4+3 transmission will handle it since I already blew it twice. I dont want to replace the transmission.
I have everything off the engine done to the block.
Was going to port the stock heads and new after market manifold and runners and install a 58mm throttle body.
Also I'm removing the air pump and all hoses. Do I need to keep the EGR pipe?
Mine was bored .060 over. The previous owner was not big on spending money if he didn't have to.
Personally if I was looking at further mods down the road I would want a sound bottom end. A few hundred dollars more now could eliminate concerns later.
[QUOTE=cumbercr;1573097703]Mine was bored .060 over. The previous owner was not big on spending money if he didn't have to.
Personally if I was looking at further mods down the road I would want a sound bottom end. A few hundred dollars more now could eliminate concerns later.[/QUOTE
honestly, the only reason to overbore on a rebuild is to have round, clean cylinder walls. Only overbore enough to clean up the cylinder walls, in case you have to rebuild later on. If you do .060 and don't need that much to clean up the walls and if you ever have to rebuild you might be looking for another block.
honestly, the only reason to overbore on a rebuild is to have round, clean cylinder walls. Only overbore enough to clean up the cylinder walls, in case you have to rebuild later on. If you do .060 and don't need that much to clean up the walls and if you ever have to rebuild you might be looking for another block.
Thanks for the info. My walls are perfect now. I only have 56,000 miles on the engine. So over boring wouldn't do me any good.
Thanks for the info. My walls are perfect now. I only have 56,000 miles on the engine. So over boring wouldn't do me any good.
take it to a machine shop unless you have the tools to check for roundness. You could probably get by with a hone, but again I advise checking (either do it yourself or get a machine shop to do it)
FYI, when i tore down my 86 with 95k miles there was almost no wear in the cylinder, I did a .030 overbore just to be on the safe side, that leaves two more (.040 and .060) standard over bore sizes left if I ever rebuild.
If you need to replace the pistons, you might as well go bigger! I went with a +.040 bore, which also give you a half point more compression ratio, at no additional charge. A .040 overbore gives you 357 cu. inches. I could definitely feel the difference. I'd recommend a balance job for a smooth running engine. If you need to build the engine again, you are definitely an incurable Corvettoholic! My original engine went 200,000 miles!
I agree with what some have posted above...bore jobs are to give you nice round Cylinders; remove scratches, etc. I'd go .010 over only if a Hone wont clean things up.This keeps thicker, stronger Bores/Block and leaves room for .020 & .030 down the road. I don't think .060 is advisable for modern SBC blocks; at least not without Sonic checking the Block first. Way back in the old days, you could bore some brands of motors 1/8" or more and that would show some power improvements.
If you are going togo .060 over have th cylinders sonic tested as we find very few that willl go .060 and have enough cylinder all to maintain a good ring seal.
Which ever way you go have it plate honed for good ring seal when the heads are bolted on.
If you have the engine out of the car, and are staring at 8 empty holes, a standard .030 overbore will clean things up, and there are thousands of piston sets ready to be had for cheap at the .030 oversize.
Put a cam in it that will maximize your engine's operating speeds, and you will enjoy it a hundred times more than you do now.
Use the cam out of a ramjet 350, and you will love it. the part number is 14097395, and it will give you more low end grunt, and tons of midrange, just where the TPI flows the best.
Maximize torque, and the HP numbers will fall where they may.
HP isn't what the TPI is all about.
This cam also comes in the hi-torque 383, and is a stump puller of a cam.
Again, why go .030 when the thing only has 56K miles on it. A Hone or if you were buying new Pistons for some reason (383-396-421), .010 would clean it up. Go .020 or .030 on the next rebuild. Hone Plate like Blockman said; it costs very little extra.
That #14097395 Cam is actually a Truck Cam ( 196/206) and is smaller than the stock L98.