1990 Vats
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
1990 Vats
Before I screw something up I would like to check with someone who knows. I went to the VATSSUCK site but Iam still a little confused. It appears you can NOT put a resister in the white wires and defeat the system as can be done on 86-89 is that correct? Besides the wires on mine arent white like it says but yellow. Iam sure this has already been beaten to death here but I just need some live moral support. I dont want to blow my air bag or some such other calamity.
Last edited by ZXDavid; Feb 27, 2010 at 11:08 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
You cannot simply connect the correct value resistor across the two wires going to the VATS module on C4's after 1989. If you do, you will be unable to crank the engine and no damage to anything will occur. The later VATS require that the resistor be disconnected between cranks. Later C4's bypass VATS by supplying the signal to the ECM that the VATS module generates when it detects the correct resistance. My recommendation is to fix your VATS and keep it intact because 99% of car thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
'90+ has CCM
Read here for fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ss-module.html
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html#vatsmod
Read here for fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ss-module.html
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html#vatsmod
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I have the correct resisters that are the value of the key but I dont see any white wires. I see yellow wires but no white wires. Iam still very confused. I just need this car to run. Its my only transportation at the moment. My other driver car was destroyed.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
This worked for me when the VATS malfunctioned on the '90.
I ran a 12 ga jumper wire from the small terminal on the starter up to the battery area.
Key on, trans in park or neutral for 6sp, emergency brake on.
Touch the jumper wire from the starter to the positive battery terminal, the engine should crank & start. Mine did.
I zip tied the wire to the diagonal brace by the battery, Installed an eyelet connector on the wire & pushed a vacuum cap over the eyelet for insulation. This wire only has power to it when the starter is engaged.
A year later another no starter operation problem. I used the jumper wire to the battery as above & it started.
I ran a 12 ga jumper wire from the small terminal on the starter up to the battery area.
Key on, trans in park or neutral for 6sp, emergency brake on.
Touch the jumper wire from the starter to the positive battery terminal, the engine should crank & start. Mine did.
I zip tied the wire to the diagonal brace by the battery, Installed an eyelet connector on the wire & pushed a vacuum cap over the eyelet for insulation. This wire only has power to it when the starter is engaged.
A year later another no starter operation problem. I used the jumper wire to the battery as above & it started.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I had ran a test wire to the s terminal on the starter and when the car fails to start I energized this wire. The starter would spin the motor then but it still didnt start. Iam assuming either the fuel supply or the spark is not present when it fails to start. It does start and run fine sometimes and will not quit unless you turn it off but then it may or may not start back up for different periods of time. The starter does not spin over at times.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
The VATS module closes the start enable relay allowing the starter to crank AND it allows the injectors to work IF it sees the correct resistance value. You can force the starter to crank by bypassing the start enable relay, but you cannot jump wires anywhere to force the computer to pulse the injectors.
The wires from the ign lock come down from above the steering column and plug into a 2 pin connector. Pull the kick panel above the drivers feet and look for these two wires. Unplug the 2 wires and insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the two wires from the ign lock. It should measure within 4% of the value you measure across the ign key pellet. If ok, then unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw at base of shift lever if automatic) and jump the wires from the wiring harness and try a crank. There should be 12v on the jumper in crank position. If not, then you may have a defective start enable relay.
The wires from the ign lock come down from above the steering column and plug into a 2 pin connector. Pull the kick panel above the drivers feet and look for these two wires. Unplug the 2 wires and insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the two wires from the ign lock. It should measure within 4% of the value you measure across the ign key pellet. If ok, then unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw at base of shift lever if automatic) and jump the wires from the wiring harness and try a crank. There should be 12v on the jumper in crank position. If not, then you may have a defective start enable relay.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 13
From: Romeoville IL
I picked up a module to bypass my vats, and send the correct signal to the ECU simulating what the CCM would send.
I'm not using it since my problem wasn't the vats system... whoops.
But it's another option.
I'm not using it since my problem wasn't the vats system... whoops.
But it's another option.
