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Don't bother with the lugs. Toss them and get new ones. The lug nuts are actually generic to any GM product that uses the plastic lug nut cover. Parts stores like NAPA and CarQuest will have those type of lug nuts.
If the threads on the studs need chasing, it's easy to swap them out for new studs. ARP has vehicle-specific stud sets that are stronger than stock and don't cost much more than buying OEM replacement studs. Summit Racing and JEG's both carry ARP studs. Places like NAPA or CarQuest can get OEM-quality studs too.
And if chasing the threads won't provide a good set of renewed threads, then you are going to need new studs and lugs anyway.
I a'm down to only one stud problem now, after buying 4 new lug nuts. How do you get the stud out ? I'am working on the passenger side front wheel. I tapped on it with a hard rubber hammer,
but it did not move. I should have started this thread by saying that all 20 lug nuts came off fine. I put them in a pan.
Installed new brake pads. Now i 'am installing the wheels.
Should i have kept the lug nuts seperate for each wheel?
Could this have ben caused buy a impact wrench, over the years of rotating the tires ?
Get a bigger hammer. Seriously. You're not keeping that stud.
A swat or two with a BFH will get the stud to back out. You might want to spray on some PB Blaster where the stud goes thru the flange on the hub and let it sit for an hour. Sometimes the splines can get rusted in place. Take one of the lugs and thread it onto the stud so the flat side of the lug is flush with the end of the stud. Once the stud is loose, it comes out from the back side.
Slide a new stud in and you can use a lug nut to pull the splined part of the stud thru the hub flange. Thread the lug nut on so the flat part is facing the rotor. Stack washers onto the stud to keep the lug nut from bottoming out. You can use an impact wrench to pull the stud to where it bottoms out against the back side of the hub flange.