Does anyone know where I can get the double pigtail which connects our distributor from the engine harness to the module inside the dizzy? (Pic below).

The stealership quoted $86 if I want to get a new one thru them. They can get it thru a local JOBBER distributor that sells to retailers only.

From looking thru ebay, TPIParts, and google, it seems like our vettes might have a unique distributor. IOW, Camaro's and other GM products used a different unit. Is that correct?

Any help finding this part would be appreciated. FWIW, I could repair mine if I could find the correct push-in pin. I'd just solder the wire on a new pin and push back into the connector. (Busted it when yanking from connector)


Better yet, would be to get an entire NEW double pigtail that connects harness to ignition module for a reasonable price.
Pic

 

I don't know the answer to your question but I think Ecklers has that part #37816 but saw two prices. One on line and one in the catalog. With shipping your dealer may be cheaper.

 

You know....you may be right. I looked at Ecklers but didn't look closely at that parts since it didn't have a plastic connector on BOTH ends. OTOH, the description say "TERMINAL BOARD". That sounds more like the ignition module vs the wires.

Friggin' pricey too! (Kinda makes me want to buy an EFI (small cap) distributor and dump the SLP-TPI for the Stealth Ram. Plus, Ecklers is pretty far down my list of preferred vendors.

Got a lead on a possible used one (via PM). But I'm still open to suggestions at this point.

 

As a longshot, give performancedistributors.com a call.

 

The F-Bodies and TBI trucks got the small cap remote coil dist .
What other V8 GM products , pre LT1 , had injection (with computer controlled dist ) ?

 

Suggestion....
The pins are actually very thin formed metal (folded to create the pin) and the crimp to the wire. I have a special crimp tool (about $160 for the tool years ago). There is also another tool that is like a hollow tube that fits up into the connector over the pin and pushes it out. I bought a small pack of them a couple of years ago from NAPA.

Just take the whole connector out of the distributor ....label all the wires so you can get it back correctly....and take it to an automotive electrical shop. They should have all the tools to do this. I would think it would take them less than 10 minutes to crimp a new pin onto the wire. Should be less than buying a new one.

 

 

But they'd have to have the RIGHT pin to replace it. Radio Shack had several but not the correct one. If the distibutor is unique,,,so might be the connector (and it's pin type).

Another pic for clarification of the sub-part....

 

BTW: Since the Ecker's description says the manufacturer recommends replacing this "part" every 75,000 miles, how many of you did that?

 

Its a standard Weatherpak pin...every shop I've ever worked in had them in their electrical supply kits. NAPA should have them, or be able to get them for you. You can crimp them on with a small set of pliers, but you need a special tool to remove them from the plug; if NAPA doesnt have them, Harbor Freight will. I got my set from the Cornwell guy for $50, comes with 10 different tools.

 

I did replace about every 75,000 ......have 232,000 now.

Your connector is a standard weather pack connector and the pins are a standard size. Radio Shack probably would not carry this but an automotive supply shop (NAPA and better auto supply stores) should have them. I have replaced a couple of my connectors in the last several years, from single pin to multiple pin connectors. They all use the same pin. The difficult part is the correct tools to remove the pin and to crimp a new one on. The standard electrical pliers and crimper tool is not made to perform this task.

Again a automotive electrical shop SHOULD have these in their stock.

 

What made you decide to do that? Mine had 55k, so I could consider letting Cheby rob me for the $86 to buy a new one. (Or buy the parts to rebuild it.)

The reason one of the pins is screwed up is that's the one where the wire broke (where it enters the plug). I was cleaning up the distributor (to look better against my all-new motor) and accidentally broke that wire off.

I wiggled and yanked, used an awl, then wiggled and yanked till I got the pin out. In the process I deformed it. (I hope the hole in the plastic connector is O.K.) With the extra "ifs", I was looking for a new one, but don't feel $86 is a fair price for that part.

BTW: What do you consider an automotive electrical shop? Is that one where they rebuild alternators?

 

Summit has the pins/sockets and some housings. They sell the pins/sockets separately. Do Weatherpack seach on their site.

Some of their housings may be keyed differently that yours.

The correct name for the tool is an extraction tool, Caspers Electronics may sell them. Or search WeatherPack extraction tool.

Most extration tools will only work with one type of connector and depending on the connector design, you may have to insert them from the front of the connector or the back (over the wire).

 

I knew I saw the extraction tool recently, $10.

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...=1112&catid=13

 

Bill32 is right on the money with the tools listed above.


The problem with the harness is that the portions inside the distributor gets baked (wires & 3 pin plastic connector circled below in red) so bad the wire's shielding looses its color and the plastic connector for the ignition module becomes super brittle and crumbles so then the wires/connectors become more openly exposed to potential voltages flying around inside the dizzy.

A good solution is just to replace the 3 wire connectors on the ignition module side and the plastic clip/connector that shrouds them. The best solution would be to just replace the pigtail whole harness.

 

most late 80's cadillacs use the same 'business end' dizzy as the tPi vette but the goesinta end is diff...4-wire connector and wiring is same as tpi..,look for the caddy dizzy cap held on with screws same as vette if shoppin j-y supply, liberate the EMI shield over the ig module from the caddy dizzy for an upgrade to a vette.

weatherpak connector ends should never require more force for removal than my preschool grand-daughter can generate (she 'helps' me sometimes)...inspect for appropriate 'locking tab release' and fab or purchase tool as req'd, there are several styles...'pushing' the 'metal end' slightly INTO the housing in the direction opposite to removal direction will make 'unlocking'/removal ez in most

high probability that you destroyed the internal plastic lock tab in the connector that you monced, new metal end will not latch in, replacement reqd

 

Try the yellow pages for your area and look for automotive electric.

bill32 is right on with the picture of the release tool.

Try your NAPA store and see if the have the pins. The part that crimps to the wire is flat with a ear to each side. These ears have to wrap up and over the wire and then crimp to the wire. You might be able to wrap them around the wire and then solder. The difficult part is that this then has to fit into plastic connector. If it fits but is too loose and wants to pop back out...a little epoxy will solve that. Replace the whole unit in the future.

I replaced my "distributor terminal board" because of the advertised warning of possible failure at 75,000++. I drive my car, many times 700-800 miles one way. Many times you can go 30-50 miles between towns. To have this little thing stop you in the middle of no where would not be a good thing. I also carry tools and a spare serp. belt with me on my trips.

I was on one such trip and as luck would have it, just as I pulled off into a town to gas up a rocker arm stud sheared off!! I was able to find a machine shop in town that had a old one. I was also luck in that I had screw in studs. I unscrewed the old one, put in the in the new one. Adjusted the valve timing and was back on the road in 1-1/2 hours. Most of this time was walking to the machine shop and back.

 

Thanks for your help!

I ended up getting a pin from O'Reilly's. Though the 1st FOUR counterpeople said they couldn't help, I saw the manager Tuesday. He said he could order the pin -- and did. (see note)

It was the correct pin. I used needle nose to carefully crimp it. I also applied light solder to reinforce. Snapped back into the hole very nicely too.

I followed with a continuity tester to make sure of all the connections.




Note: In case you're wondering why I'd talk to 4 guys.....One was via phone while researching who had replacement harnesses. Two more when I stopped by their the next day (Sunday). We did order one harness shown in their computer to see if it was right. It wasn't and O'Reilly's doesn't have it.

It wasn't until I stopped by to pick up some engine paint Tuesday that I told the manager about my problem. He pulled out a book and asked me to pick which pin I needed. There were only 2 pages of weatherpack pins (large pics of each pin). We ordered two that were similar. Turns out either would have worked.