Rebuilt Engines in Central FL
Has anybody heard anything about National Cylinder Head Exchange in Orlando, FL?
Rebuilt stock 350 for my 86 Installed $3k.. 3yr 36k mile warranty.
I am looking for crate motor in the Central Fl area that will also install it without breaking the bank. Nothing radical just a stock motor that will last. I would'nt mind a 383 as long as the price between the 2 is close.
Rebuilt stock 350 for my 86 Installed $3k.. 3yr 36k mile warranty.
I am looking for crate motor in the Central Fl area that will also install it without breaking the bank. Nothing radical just a stock motor that will last. I would'nt mind a 383 as long as the price between the 2 is close.
They have a good rep, I know people who have used them. Was thinking of them when I lived in o-town, how much just for the exchange?
You could do it yourself in a weekend easily, all you would need is to rent a engine hoist and have a couple of jack stands, floor jack and basic tools.
But 3k installed is a good price, is it a rebuilt 350 or new block?
If it is rebuilt, did they reslieve it or just hone?
If just honed, I would wonder about the longeviety of the block.
If it was me, I would ask for it to be bored to a 355, aka .030 over.
Then you don't have to worry about piston rings sealing on a honed block.
There is another place downtown that rebuilds engines, cannot think of the name and also check with Bo-laws(think that is how you spell the name), they were big chevy shop.
Call H&H or Rogers and ask them who they recommend, also Corvette doctor in Sanford.
You could do it yourself in a weekend easily, all you would need is to rent a engine hoist and have a couple of jack stands, floor jack and basic tools.
But 3k installed is a good price, is it a rebuilt 350 or new block?
If it is rebuilt, did they reslieve it or just hone?
If just honed, I would wonder about the longeviety of the block.
If it was me, I would ask for it to be bored to a 355, aka .030 over.
Then you don't have to worry about piston rings sealing on a honed block.
There is another place downtown that rebuilds engines, cannot think of the name and also check with Bo-laws(think that is how you spell the name), they were big chevy shop.
Call H&H or Rogers and ask them who they recommend, also Corvette doctor in Sanford.
They have a good rep, I know people who have used them. Was thinking of them when I lived in o-town, how much just for the exchange?
You could do it yourself in a weekend easily, all you would need is to rent a engine hoist and have a couple of jack stands, floor jack and basic tools.
But 3k installed is a good price, is it a rebuilt 350 or new block?
If it is rebuilt, did they reslieve it or just hone?
If just honed, I would wonder about the longeviety of the block.
If it was me, I would ask for it to be bored to a 355, aka .030 over.
Then you don't have to worry about piston rings sealing on a honed block.
There is another place downtown that rebuilds engines, cannot think of the name and also check with Bo-laws(think that is how you spell the name), they were big chevy shop.
Call H&H or Rogers and ask them who they recommend, also Corvette doctor in Sanford.
You could do it yourself in a weekend easily, all you would need is to rent a engine hoist and have a couple of jack stands, floor jack and basic tools.
But 3k installed is a good price, is it a rebuilt 350 or new block?
If it is rebuilt, did they reslieve it or just hone?
If just honed, I would wonder about the longeviety of the block.
If it was me, I would ask for it to be bored to a 355, aka .030 over.
Then you don't have to worry about piston rings sealing on a honed block.
There is another place downtown that rebuilds engines, cannot think of the name and also check with Bo-laws(think that is how you spell the name), they were big chevy shop.
Call H&H or Rogers and ask them who they recommend, also Corvette doctor in Sanford.
$1350 + 50 and DIY or $3k installed. Heck give me 600 and I will do it in a day and you will still save 900.
Guys name is John. He built me a couple of long block 350's for my boat a couple of years back.He certainly knows what he's talking about and well worth a visit to see the operation.Found a couple of 4-bolt blocks for me and built them to my specs and very reasonable.You get a credit for any of your old parts that are reusable as well. Think I payed $1750 each and that included stainless valves and a hot cam.
Give him a call,he will work with you.
Give him a call,he will work with you.
Guys name is John. He built me a couple of long block 350's for my boat a couple of years back.He certainly knows what he's talking about and well worth a visit to see the operation.Found a couple of 4-bolt blocks for me and built them to my specs and very reasonable.You get a credit for any of your old parts that are reusable as well. Think I payed $1750 each and that included stainless valves and a hot cam.
Give him a call,he will work with you.
Give him a call,he will work with you.
Man, $3k on one hand sounds high...but then again the lazy side of me says that $3k "installed" is not half bad.....that number has been stuck in my head since I read this thread.
But my 14 year old would kill me if I didn't take the motor apart in front of him...or let him take it apart.
But my 14 year old would kill me if I didn't take the motor apart in front of him...or let him take it apart.
Hood came off, a friend helped me with that. Damn things are heavy, do not remember all the details.
But, if you do a search, there is a guy who details how to do it quickly and efficiently.
Will tell you before I started, I took several pics of engine bay after I used masking tape to tape and number all harness connections and sensors.
I put a number on all taped items, i.e. 1 on IAC connector and 1 on IAC and had my friend right them down, it made reinstalling a snap. Hardest part was getting the hood realigned.
I started about 7a and had the tranny to the shop by 3p, putting it in took longer, but only about an hour or two.
But, if you do a search, there is a guy who details how to do it quickly and efficiently.
Will tell you before I started, I took several pics of engine bay after I used masking tape to tape and number all harness connections and sensors.
I put a number on all taped items, i.e. 1 on IAC connector and 1 on IAC and had my friend right them down, it made reinstalling a snap. Hardest part was getting the hood realigned.
I started about 7a and had the tranny to the shop by 3p, putting it in took longer, but only about an hour or two.
Number 1 thing I've heard you should avoid is taking off the hood. I've also heard pulling an LT1 is quicker than pulling a L98 because of all the hoses and brackets they are routed through. I don't know though, I've never pulled an LT1.
I can pull my L98 in 4 hours. Pull engine alone from the side. AIR pump is gone along with all the piping. That helps. There is a "Corvette Doctor in Melbourne on Wickem Rd. No idea if they are associated with the Sanford operation.
I found the quickest way to pull an engine is to leave the tranny in.No need to remove the radiator or hood. There is one bolt located at the top left of the bell housing that is a pig to get at.What I did was to take a hole cutter and make an access hole from the inside of the car under the brake pedal and stuck a grommet in there.Now if it needs to come out again it's going to be a lot easier.














I couldn't do it. (But I'm an old fart)







