surge coolant tank replacement
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,961
Likes: 707
From: WI
Easy? What I do is use my shop vac to bring the coolant level down to just the right level so I don't drain it all. Suck up a little dust on the floor when your done and leave the vac tube tipped up so there isn't a small dribble out of it.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 0
I mean easier. Not to sound too dumb do you mean suck till the tank is empty or more ?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,961
Likes: 707
From: WI
Since you're replacing the tank (what's wrong with it?) I would clamp the line so it doesn't leak and replace the tank. I don't have that style of tank though so I'm not sure how it's plumbed. I would think you could clamp the line, remove the tank, install the new tank and hook the line back up. That wouldn't require messing with the coolant at all. You could even dump the old coolant into the new tank.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Because the surge tank is above the rest of the cooling system, all you really need to do is to siphon out the coolant that is in the tank, remove it and install the new one and add coolant to the bottom of the filler neck. You may get some coolant dripping out of the hoses, but they can be clamped shut beforehand as mentioned.
With the new tank in place and filled, start the engine and let it idle. Watch the level of the coolant to see if it drops when the 'stat opens. If it does, add fresh coolant to the filler neck and replace the pressure cap.
With the new tank in place and filled, start the engine and let it idle. Watch the level of the coolant to see if it drops when the 'stat opens. If it does, add fresh coolant to the filler neck and replace the pressure cap.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 0
Because the surge tank is above the rest of the cooling system, all you really need to do is to siphon out the coolant that is in the tank, remove it and install the new one and add coolant to the bottom of the filler neck. You may get some coolant dripping out of the hoses, but they can be clamped shut beforehand as mentioned.
With the new tank in place and filled, start the engine and let it idle. Watch the level of the coolant to see if it drops when the 'stat opens. If it does, add fresh coolant to the filler neck and replace the pressure cap.
With the new tank in place and filled, start the engine and let it idle. Watch the level of the coolant to see if it drops when the 'stat opens. If it does, add fresh coolant to the filler neck and replace the pressure cap.
The coolent recovery hose fitting right under the cap is loose and leaking. I tried epoxy and that weld product did not hold. Got one online from a 94 for $17/$8 for shipping. So I will try that one and see what's wronge with it!
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You should not have to open the bleed valve. The valve is there to remove air pockets that are in the block, heads or radiator as the system is filled after a full drain of the cooling system.
Once the new tank is installed and you have replaced the pressure cap, check the level of coolant in the overflow tank. Make sure the level is at least at the Cold mark.
Once the new tank is installed and you have replaced the pressure cap, check the level of coolant in the overflow tank. Make sure the level is at least at the Cold mark.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 0
You should not have to open the bleed valve. The valve is there to remove air pockets that are in the block, heads or radiator as the system is filled after a full drain of the cooling system.
Once the new tank is installed and you have replaced the pressure cap, check the level of coolant in the overflow tank. Make sure the level is at least at the Cold mark.
Once the new tank is installed and you have replaced the pressure cap, check the level of coolant in the overflow tank. Make sure the level is at least at the Cold mark.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Roseville CA
I just replaced mine on my 94. I had the same problem with the neck started to leak and no amount of JB Weld was going to hold that pressure.
I sucked out the coolant with a good ol' dollar tree turkey baster (high tech baby). Disconnected the hoses and installed the new one in about 45 minutes.
After filling, I did bleed the system just to be sure no air got in there, since some fluid leaked out due to the leaky neck. Like c4cruiser stated, also check the coolant tank.
I sucked out the coolant with a good ol' dollar tree turkey baster (high tech baby). Disconnected the hoses and installed the new one in about 45 minutes.
After filling, I did bleed the system just to be sure no air got in there, since some fluid leaked out due to the leaky neck. Like c4cruiser stated, also check the coolant tank.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
I used to use turkey baster to siphon fluids. Total piece of crap compared to one of these transfer pumps. I tossed my turkey baster in the trash where it belongs.
$5 at Habor Freight or Wal-Mart.
Also useful for removing transmission fluid through the dipstick prior to pan/filter replacement. It eliminates the mess of dropping the pan full of fluid. Many uses.
$5 at Habor Freight or Wal-Mart.
Also useful for removing transmission fluid through the dipstick prior to pan/filter replacement. It eliminates the mess of dropping the pan full of fluid. Many uses.
