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Is there a legitimate method to remove the ridiculous "cold start injector" from my '85 L98? The car is running rich (exhaust STINKS) and the idle bottoms out and surges. I would think that removing the fuel line and plugging that off would be the first step, but how do I seal the hole when the injector itself is removed?
I understand that if it is leaking, unplugging it will not prevent fuel from continuing to flow. The fuel needs to be disconnected and port sealed in some fashion, right?
The fuel needs to be disconnected and port sealed in some fashion, right?
There are CSI delete kits available that supply the cap for the fuel rail and a plug for the injector.
or you can cap the rail and just leave injector in place to fill the hole
Yes, that is true, if you have a leak in the injectors. To know that you would need to connect a fuel pressure guage to the fuel rail and see if the pressure holds. If you don't see an abmormal drop in pressure, they ain't leaking. Have you done that?
Also, have you verified for closed loop operation? If you don't have a multi-meter, you can use the car's built in field test mode using a paper clip.
The same as pulling codes but you start the car this time when jumping the A&B terminals of the ALDL plug. Two flashes per second on the engine light means the car is in open loop. If the flashes drop to 1 time per second, the car is entering closed loop.
Vaccum leaks can introduce unmetered air entering the motor bypassing the MAF sensor, which throws off the mixture as the ECM tries to compestate.
Would the richness and horrible fuel odor indicate the injector leaking, or would it be vacuum related?
It could be either. But you've already replaced the injectors apperently. Where they new or used? Have you done a fuel pressure test?
Car going into closed loop?
To find vacuum leaks I use a can or carb cleaner with straw nozzle. When engine idling shoot come carb cleaner around gaskets, seals, hoses, etc. If there is a leak, the motor will suck the carb cleaner in, and you will hear a short increase in idle speed. Then you know you've found your leak. Unmeterered air entering the motor bypassing the MAF from vacuum leaks throws off the mixture.
When I do this, I connect a voltmeter between the O2 sensor lead and ground. I look for any fluctuation of the O2 reading to correspond with idle increase while shooting carb cleaner around seals, gaskets, and hoses. It's very effective. You can't always hear these leaks.
You can buy a delete kit or make your own. The runner plug is just a tapered chunk of metal. The fuel rail plug you can cut off the line and weld a round plate on, to plug the hole.
I found this kit online http://2011camaroperformanceparts.com/inc/sdetail/12167
Looks like it would work. How do I know if I have to reprogram the ECM with the '89 codes? Yes, Jon at FIC supplied me with new gen 3 injectors.
86P, I'm just convinced that it's a useless component that GM bounced anyway. The car is only driven on warm days anyway, so I'm not worried about "cold starts"...
I ran mine 3 winters with the cold start unplugged. It gets down to single digits here and it just cranks a little more to get it started. No big deal. I remember someone on here JB Welded a penny (maybe a nickel) in the hole and that worked.
Mine was doing something similar to yours. Had a bad O2 sensor. Wasn't allowing the computer to go to closed loop. It ran rich and poor gas mileage. Also it had a bad tps and didn't throw any codes.
Just some things to check. Don't throw parts at it just because.
86P, I'm just convinced that it's a useless component that GM bounced anyway. The car is only driven on warm days anyway, so I'm not worried about "cold starts"...
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Years back on my 1988 Formula 350 Firebird; I deleted the 9th injector. I got a Accel delete kit from Summit that plugged the fuel rail and a cover plug to replace the injector. Never peprogrammed but only ran it from May till the end of Oct. and had no start issues.