C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Doing headgasket any tricks?

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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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Default Doing headgasket any tricks?

Finally going to do the headgasket and is there any tricks to get the bolts out?

2nd, been hearing valve train noise, hoping it is the header leaking. But what do I look for as far as a burnt valve or dead lifter?

Been a LONNGGG time since I did any head work.

Thanks!!
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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Bolts should not be a problem...use 6 point sockets.

Before you get that far....take pictures of everything. Label all wires, hoses, bolts etc. The bolts that were on my stock runners were different sizes..so I even labeled each bolt.

I usually take a cardboard box and draw the outline of the two heads on the box and punch holes.....each pushrod goes in place and all head bolts the same. To get them back in the same place.

If your bolts are stock, I think you will want to replace with new ARP bolts. Don't forget to use sealant on head bolts and anti-seize on any metal bolt going into aluminum.

Best of luck.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
Bolts should not be a problem...use 6 point sockets.

Before you get that far....take pictures of everything. Label all wires, hoses, bolts etc. The bolts that were on my stock runners were different sizes..so I even labeled each bolt.

I usually take a cardboard box and draw the outline of the two heads on the box and punch holes.....each pushrod goes in place and all head bolts the same. To get them back in the same place.

If your bolts are stock, I think you will want to replace with new ARP bolts. Don't forget to use sealant on head bolts and anti-seize on any metal bolt going into aluminum.

Best of luck.
I always label everything and I went w/Felpro bolts. They come w/sealant on them and thanks for the help.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker

I usually take a cardboard box and draw the outline of the two heads on the box and punch holes.....each pushrod goes in place and all head bolts the same. To get them back in the same place.
I know this is the standard practice when removing heads, pushrods go back in the same place...but if i may ask...why?? By math, it shouldn't make a bit of difference.

Any logical answer i've heard to the question has made me counter with the question of, "so why not replace them then?"
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cwyates4
I know this is the standard practice when removing heads, pushrods go back in the same place...but if i may ask...why?? By math, it shouldn't make a bit of difference.

Any logical answer i've heard to the question has made me counter with the question of, "so why not replace them then?"
If one is slightly longer, it would throw off the valve setting, if it went back in a different spot.

Anybody know howto tell if a lifter is dead?
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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Part of the push rod back exactly where it came from is old school when using formed rocker arms. The arms were not exact (ratio would actually vary from 1.42 to 1.5) AND the rod would ware against the arm. Since materials back then were not the greatest, ware patterns would be different. I rebuilt a 350 back in 74 with only 12,000 miles on it and placed the rods exactly where they came from....only to have half the arms flow oil! Ended up replacing half the arms and rods.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by surfer92
If one is slightly longer, it would throw off the valve setting, if it went back in a different spot.
counter questions:

1. Shouldn't the valves be re adjusted after install anyways?
2. Problem would be fixed with a new set then, correct?
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by surfer92
If one is slightly longer, it would throw off the valve setting, if it went back in a different spot.
Originally Posted by cwyates4
counter questions:

1. Shouldn't the valves be re adjusted after install anyways?
2. Problem would be fixed with a new set then, correct?
Yes, you have to adjust the valves anyway.
No reason to buy new unless the tips are showing wear.
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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Now, what are the signs of a dead lifter?
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by surfer92
Now, what are the signs of a dead lifter?
They might "tic"
Inspection:
Base is mushroomed into the block bore....roller is sloppy, flatspoted or grooved....no pushrod seat spring tension or seat is stuck pressed in.

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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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PULL the knock sensors on each side to finish draining the block.

Use the permatex sealer for the head bolts that go into the water jacket (IIRC its all of them on top. Don't remember if the ones below the manifold go into water or not)

Be careful of the steam tube between the back of the heads.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jaa1992
PULL the knock sensors on each side to finish draining the block.

Use the permatex sealer for the head bolts that go into the water jacket (IIRC its all of them on top. Don't remember if the ones below the manifold go into water or not)

Be careful of the steam tube between the back of the heads.
ok now i have to pull out FSM. i am at the point of actually pulling my heads off i didn't realize there was such a thing as a steam tube.
thanks for the tip.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Harsh20
ok now i have to pull out FSM. i am at the point of actually pulling my heads off i didn't realize there was such a thing as a steam tube.
thanks for the tip.
You have an 89 - the OP has a 92.
The LT1 has a steam tube at the back of the heads IIRC the L98 didn't, but check your FSM.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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yeah i checked...no steam tube
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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Take pictures, lots of pictures.
Pull the battery and don't put it back in until everything is hooked back up, everything!!!
The best thing I did when I changed my gaskets was to take lots of pictures so I could put things back together.
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