Lt1 408
But it is GREAT to see a big CI performance option for the LT1/4 guys
Mike
but if we can assist anyone please let us know. We're building one of these for a road race application right now for a customer.
Last edited by 99blancoss; Mar 22, 2010 at 11:18 AM.
Do you use a crankshaft with smaller rod journals for clearance?
Are the main caps billet and are they splayed 4 bolts on all 5 locations?
Why isn't it suitable for FI and nitrous?
Which compressions height do the pistons have with the 6" rods?
Do the piston pin holes go into the oil ring groove?
What is the difference between your 408 LT1 and this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-S...Q5fAccessories ?
Regards
Rico
Do you use a crankshaft with smaller rod journals for clearance?
Are the main caps billet and are they splayed 4 bolts on all 5 locations?
Why isn't it suitable for FI and nitrous?
Which compressions height do the pistons have with the 6" rods?
Do the piston pin holes go into the oil ring groove?
What is the difference between your 408 LT1 and this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-S...Q5fAccessories ?
Regards
Rico
We prep the crank accordingly
Are the main caps billet and are they splayed 4 bolts on all 5 locations?
Splayed, only the three middle caps need them.
Why isn't it suitable for FI and nitrous?
The piston is compromised due to the stroke
Which compressions height do the pistons have with the 6" rods?
1.000
Do the piston pin holes go into the oil ring groove?
Yes like 90% of all 383s and up an SBC.
Now as far as your last question I have not heard of them nor has HKE who does a lot of engines for people in Dallas.
The components do not make an engine bullet proof and expensive internals do not make power on their own. Its the builder that separates one engine from another and tuning is crucial to any engine. A bad tune can and will destroy that $7000 short block just as easily as it destroys a $4000 shortblock.
We can certainly throw big money at internals same as you see in that ad but for what? This is a n/a application engine only as far as we are concerned. Callies Compstar is more than good enough. ( and would be the same for FI or n2o)
If you want me to build a $7000 LT1 shortblock I can certainly do that with a billet crank Oliver or Carrillo rods and it would make sense I suppose if your putting a $7500 top end on it as well and are going to be running it at 8500 rpms for hours on end.
But we like to put the money where it makes sense and does the most good.
If you want me to build you an LT1 boost or n2o engine we can certainly do that but it is not recommended on the LT1 408.
Last edited by 99blancoss; Apr 20, 2010 at 01:27 PM. Reason: added content and spell chk
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Do you have pics of your 408 LT1's?
You don't recommend FI or nitrous on your 408 LT1's. But member SonnyinVa runs a 408/409 cui LTx with a 300 shot of nitrous successfully in his C4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_0xDygXowg So it seems to be possible!?
Best regards from Germany
Rico
Do you have pics of your 408 LT1's?
You don't recommend FI or nitrous on your 408 LT1's. But member SonnyinVa runs a 408/409 cui LTx with a 300 shot of nitrous successfully in his C4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_0xDygXowg So it seems to be possible!?
What if this is nearly what I want? Which topend do you recommend for a high HP high revving version of your 408 LT1's?
Best regards from Germany
Rico
We dont recommend it as 99% of the time it's a car that the variables are not going to be controlled properly.
I will pm you and we can talk about your specific needs and then come up a with a combination for your application.




I'm wondering what it would cost for a long block ready to slap a flywheel on and mate it to my 6 spd. Also if you do a 383 what that would cost in a long block. Also if you have approx HP numbers so I can see which base class I'd fit in.
I road race mine so I'm looking more for longevity, torque.
I'm wondering what it would cost for a long block ready to slap a flywheel on and mate it to my 6 spd. Also if you do a 383 what that would cost in a long block. Also if you have approx HP numbers so I can see which base class I'd fit in.
I road race mine so I'm looking more for longevity, torque.
max effort hydraulic roller.
price of a 383 would drop a good amount for shot short block but the heads and valvetrain is where a lot of money goes no matter what if your looking to make real power.











