Removing Rear Composite Spring
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 244
Removing Rear Composite Spring
1994 LT1/ZF6
Hello All,
I am beginning my 'teardown' tonight with the end goal of removing the dana44 (going to DTS for 4.11s).
My FSMs are in the mail, so please bear with me!
I already have the car safely up on stands. I haven't measured but I'd guess the rear of the vehicle has been raised about 15" from its natural parked state and the front just a little less than the rear. My plan is to use a floor jack to relieve the pressure off one end of the spring, remove the bolt, and then slowly release the jack to allow the spring to decompress. Then of course I would repeat for the other side. My concern is that I do not know how much the spring will 'decompress,' meaning will having rasied the car 15" be enough, or will the spring extend so far that it will bottom out against the floor before reaching its natural state? Does anyone happen to know a minimum distance between a fixed point on the car (say the carrier) and the ground that would allow for full release of the spring?
I've seen the GM compressing tool to get the job done, but who has the $ for that?
Thanks,
John
Hello All,
I am beginning my 'teardown' tonight with the end goal of removing the dana44 (going to DTS for 4.11s).
My FSMs are in the mail, so please bear with me!
I already have the car safely up on stands. I haven't measured but I'd guess the rear of the vehicle has been raised about 15" from its natural parked state and the front just a little less than the rear. My plan is to use a floor jack to relieve the pressure off one end of the spring, remove the bolt, and then slowly release the jack to allow the spring to decompress. Then of course I would repeat for the other side. My concern is that I do not know how much the spring will 'decompress,' meaning will having rasied the car 15" be enough, or will the spring extend so far that it will bottom out against the floor before reaching its natural state? Does anyone happen to know a minimum distance between a fixed point on the car (say the carrier) and the ground that would allow for full release of the spring?
I've seen the GM compressing tool to get the job done, but who has the $ for that?
Thanks,
John
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Oxford CT
I didn't take a measurement when I did my rear suspension but here are some pics of the spring decompressed. If anything, you can compare the picture to what you have in your garage to see if you're close. I have the FE1 spring option.
Hope that helps,
Mike
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...d-batwing.html
Hope that helps,
Mike
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...d-batwing.html
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 244
Thanks for the reply.
is this the picture you are talking about?
I can't tell if the ends are touching the ground or not but even if they are it looks like the force would be negligible or that carrier wouldnt be sitting on the jack so easily. Looks like I should be OK. I'm not sure which spring I have, the RPO is probably under the center console lid, but I imagine they all take more or less the same shape when unbolted.
You're thread also eased another one of my concerns about how heavy I should expect it to be. If it only weighs in around 100lbs I should be able to handle it.
I'm starting to think pulling the exhaust off might be the biggest pain of this job!
is this the picture you are talking about?
I can't tell if the ends are touching the ground or not but even if they are it looks like the force would be negligible or that carrier wouldnt be sitting on the jack so easily. Looks like I should be OK. I'm not sure which spring I have, the RPO is probably under the center console lid, but I imagine they all take more or less the same shape when unbolted.
You're thread also eased another one of my concerns about how heavy I should expect it to be. If it only weighs in around 100lbs I should be able to handle it.
I'm starting to think pulling the exhaust off might be the biggest pain of this job!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
You are plenty high enough. Be sure to use some kind of padding so the jack doesn't mar the spring. Use a rope and tire up the rear of the exhaust, then take the hangers off. Then when you disconnect the front just slide it back a few inches and lower it to the ground.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 244
Good to know that I should have the clearance. I was fairly concerned about it because if I had to go much higher I don't think it would be as stable.
The only thing about the exhaust that irks me is the flange up by the cats. When I put the magnaflow system on the studs were rusty and made it a heck of a job. I replaced them and used anti seize this time around. I wish GM went with a ball and cup type connection there instead.
Pulling the carrier seems fairly straightforward. I think I can have it out in a few hours if all the fasteners are compliant. They have been on there for 15 years though so who knows what I'll run into. While the carrier is off to DTS I'll be focusing on u joints and replacing the water pump. Then maybe bushings and beam plates if I deem it necessary or the 'while I'm in there' addage kicks in.
Thanks again,
John
The only thing about the exhaust that irks me is the flange up by the cats. When I put the magnaflow system on the studs were rusty and made it a heck of a job. I replaced them and used anti seize this time around. I wish GM went with a ball and cup type connection there instead.
Pulling the carrier seems fairly straightforward. I think I can have it out in a few hours if all the fasteners are compliant. They have been on there for 15 years though so who knows what I'll run into. While the carrier is off to DTS I'll be focusing on u joints and replacing the water pump. Then maybe bushings and beam plates if I deem it necessary or the 'while I'm in there' addage kicks in.
Thanks again,
John
