C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

thermostat question

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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 01:43 AM
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Hello all,

Decided to so some mild porting on my 89 plenum, you know those
2 ridges on the bottom entrance, so Im grinding them out, fun.

Anyway, since I have that out, Im going to change my thermostat,
since its easier to get to now.

Im pretty sure I had the original thermostat in there, I have it out now,
and it looks pretty old, and its stamped 195 on top, so 195 degree.

First question... Im kinda puzzled if I had a 195 in there, why my coolant temps were always about 180 degrees on the highway.
On cooler days, I would get down to 178-179.
Always that range, for 12 years and 16k miles.
Why didnt the 195 thermostat close off at 195, how could I drop down to 180 ? { not complaining, I liked it, ha }

Second - Im going to put a 180 in there I think, or maybe even a 160.
I see that the online vendors have a ' performance ' thermostat,
a few bucks higher, is there any real diff in quality ?

Thanks all.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 01:57 AM
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Those are normal temps for freeway driving because you have all that air rushing through the radiator the whole time. It's like having your cooling fan running only a lot more air.

A 195 thermostat doesn't slam open or closed at 195. It starts to slowly open at the rated temp. A lower thermostat like a 160 opens sooner, so it allows the hot coolant in the motor to circulate into the radiator sooner.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:20 AM
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Thanks for the reply 86pacer, yeah I know the thermostat doesnt act like a fast gate valve at rated temp, usually they are like a 15 degree span, starts to open at 195, fully open at 210 or so, but what got me is if the coolant temp is 180, the thermostat is closed again, yet the efficiency of the highway speed still keeps it 15-17 degrees lower, wow.

I think I will go to the dealer and get another AC delco.
They earned it, ha.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:22 AM
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What are your city temps?
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:23 AM
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Damn I need a throttle body to plenum gasket also.
Mine is in 2 places.
Probably have to order that one.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:25 AM
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I get those at Kragen.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2547&ppt=C0026
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:26 AM
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My city temps are always low too.
I would say they hang around 185-190.
On a rare hot day if its 90 outside, it will climb to 200 in stop and go traffic.
Ive always been amazed at how cool this car runs.

I have a g-tech, and I used to make 0-60 runs. I would record and document
my coolant/oil temps every time.
I hit 172 coolant a few times, with 50 degrees outside.

My oil temps are always good too, about 188-192 highway.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:28 AM
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Hey thanks for the link... we have several 0h oh oh oh reillyes here.
1 day time works for me. Felpro is a good one.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by mack89vette
My city temps are always low too.
I would say they hang around 185-190.
On a rare hot day if its 90 outside, it will climb to 200 in stop and go traffic.
Ive always been amazed at how cool this car runs.

I have a g-tech, and I used to make 0-60 runs. I would record and document
my coolant/oil temps every time.
I hit 172 coolant a few times, with 50 degrees outside.

My oil temps are always good too, about 188-192 highway.
Do you keep the A/C or Heat on at all times?
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:36 AM
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That's a good point. If the AC is working properly, the cooling fan should run the whole time the AC is by factory design.

At what temps is your main fan kicking on with AC off?

The stock setup doesn't kick the fan on untill about 229 degrees. If your fan is kicking on sooner than that, your car must have a low temp fan switch or a reporgramed chip. If that's the case a new thermostat is a waste of money that isn't going to change anything.

I have a low temp fan switch on mine that kicks the fan on early at 200. My car never goes above 200 even in the hottest of days. These cars run quite hot bone stock. Too hot for my linking since I don't like waiting till almost 230 for the fan to kick on. It sounds like you want to run hotter. But those are the temps I run at. You don't have a problem, unless you want to run hotter.

Last edited by 86PACER; Mar 19, 2010 at 02:39 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
That's a good point. If the AC is working properly, the cooling fan should run the whole time the AC is by factory design.

At what temps is your main fan kicking on with AC off?

The stock setup doesn't kick the fan on untill about 229 degrees. If your fan is kicking on sooner than that, your car must have a low temp fan switch or a reporgramed chip. If that's the case a new thermostat is a waste of money that isn't going to change anything.

I have a low temp fan switch on mine that kicks the fan on early at 200. My car never goes above 200 even in the hottest of days. These cars run quite hot bone stock. Too hot for my linking since I don't like waiting till almost 230 for the fan to kick on. It sounds like you want to run hotter. But those are the temps I run at. You don't have a problem, unless you want to run hotter.
Is that the thing from Mid America that you swap your fan switch with? I think it is $15?

Though, I don't really need it. I usually have the A/C or Heat on. Though if those are off, it usually doesn't get too hot unless I'm doing alot of sitting. I had put in a 195 Robertshaw stat. And I think it acts like a 180. Because I tested it, and it starts opening at 180 whereas the stock 195 stat started opening at 195.

I kinda wonder if that is why people say the Robertshaw cools better as they say it has better flow. I just wonder if they brand 180 stats as 195.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Is that the thing from Mid America that you swap your fan switch with? I think it is $15?
Yes that's the one I have. If you have a single fan, you remove a pipe plug on the head, thread this switch in, and splice a wire to the fan relay. If dual fans, you replace your stock switch. I used to use my car for local parades and such. This switch kept my car cool, and with my 170 stat from TPIS, the fan is not running most of the time.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
Yes that's the one I have. If you have a single fan, you remove a pipe plug on the head, thread this switch in, and splice a wire to the fan relay. If dual fans, you replace your stock switch. I used to use my car for local parades and such. This switch kept my car cool, and with my 170 stat from TPIS, the fan is not running most of the time.
I'm guessing on the dual fan. That it turns on your booster fan and not your main fan?

Though, I've never seen that booster fan ever turn on. I guess its just back up incase it starts over heating.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
I'm guessing on the dual fan. That it turns on your booster fan and not your main fan?
That would seem correct. The main fan is kicked on by the ECM controlling the fan relay. The auxillary fan is controlled by the fan switch, which is why single fan cars have a pipe plug there.

Last edited by 86PACER; Mar 19, 2010 at 03:25 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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Thanks for the great replys....

Joshwilson3- I have my heater on sometimes, not very often, I
would say 25% of the time.
My AC is almost never on, maybe I will run it for a few minutes
just to get things circulating.

86 pacer - My main fan is running most of the time, I dont know
an exact temp, but its way way below 229.
I have never seen 229 in this car running anywhere in any condition.
I dont want to run hotter, ha, Im totally happy with the temps and
total system.

I wanted to change the thermostat, knowing it was an old one,
and with stuff off I can reach it all and do an upgrade/restore.

I picked up a stant 'super stat' - 180 degree, they say it flows a little
better and its more durable construction.
Also got the throttle body/plenum gasket, felpro, 4 bucks.

And a new thermostat gasket.
This one is far superior to stock, its like twice as thick, almost rigid,
and has a beaded line of the orange sealant imbedded on both sides.

Its obvious I do have the low temp fan switch/and or the reprogrammed switch temp. Everything works great.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mack89vette
Thanks for the great replys....

Joshwilson3- I have my heater on sometimes, not very often, I
would say 25% of the time.
My AC is almost never on, maybe I will run it for a few minutes
just to get things circulating.

86 pacer - My main fan is running most of the time, I dont know
an exact temp, but its way way below 229.
I have never seen 229 in this car running anywhere in any condition.
I dont want to run hotter, ha, Im totally happy with the temps and
total system.

I wanted to change the thermostat, knowing it was an old one,
and with stuff off I can reach it all and do an upgrade/restore.

I picked up a stant 'super stat' - 180 degree, they say it flows a little
better and its more durable construction.
Also got the throttle body/plenum gasket, felpro, 4 bucks.

And a new thermostat gasket.
This one is far superior to stock, its like twice as thick, almost rigid,
and has a beaded line of the orange sealant imbedded on both sides.

Its obvious I do have the low temp fan switch/and or the reprogrammed switch temp. Everything works great.
I use a Felpro reusable thermostat gasket. Though it would probably be best to just replace the gasket when you do the thermostat every few years. The main reason why I use it, is that you don't have to clean anything up. I have one in my Firebird and Vette. And that plastic gasket doesn't leak.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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A 195 stat is too high with a low temp fan switch if that is indeed what's on your car. That's why I went with a 170 instead to space them out, so the fan and the stat aren't fighting each other. That's probabaly why your fan runs so much. That shouldn't be the case if you allow the trapped hot coolant in the block to circulate sooner with a lower stat.

Last edited by 86PACER; Mar 19, 2010 at 03:00 PM.
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