I have them on my 93, you will need to clean up around the port openings, but they fit great.

 

Did you see my 1st post, simple and costs nothing and no fab work.

 

Yep, thanks. After I found the header bolts, I put them all on today, and I see what you are talking about. That works much better,

Thanks again.

 

I'd like to pose a couple of questions to all who have done this install.

1. What year car?

2. Who left all their stock accessories on the car? A/C, Air Pump, etc.

3 did any of you try the install from the bottom?


Thanks,
JC

 

pologreen1, PM sent

 

1.90'
2.no smog,a/c
3.I went from the bottom on the drivers side.(left side went right in) I went from the top on the passenger side, but I had to trim a little sliver of a brace to get it to set down in, because of the big plastic hump under the coolant tank.(right side 2hours total)
4.some might go in easier from the bottom. I have heard a lot of stuff on here, so I expected my problems. Some say they go right in, others have to make them fit better.
IMO you can go wrong for the price.
Mine came with :headers,gaskets,bolts,reducers. All for $159. For @0 you can get a bung and weld it on. I bought an extra reducer for $20, to just be done with it.

PM replied

 

1. 93

2. Everything but air pump

3. Did both sides from the bottom, took off pass. side valve cover, made getting the bolts in around nbr 8 easier and took out dipstick tube.

 

1. 1990

2. all accessories left on and spinning.

3. I do believe I went in throught the top. Only mod after they were on was a new starter since it failed I guess due to heat. also added a starter sheild.

 

i kept all accessories on my 90 i went in through the bottom and my starter is still working fine

 

bill mcdonald funny you mention that. I was thinking about wrapping them by the starter or thinking if there is supposed to be a shield there to begin with. I am not real comfortable with it so close to the header.

 

Thanks for the replies...one more question...who is running a true dual exhaust with this and did you construct it yourself or get a kit?

I am asking since my car is disassembled in almost all the right places to do this, and chances like this don't happen every day.

Pics and sources please.

Thank You,
JC

 

Why don't you start your own thread and not hijack this one!!
Not trying to be mean, but you took this one over.

 

So what's the deal with the headers, Why so cheap compared to others?
Do they have the O2 sensor holes?

SURFER: Can you explain a little more about what you had to do to the ports? And I'm guessing here, you had to remove all the EGR stuff right?


Someone also said they had ground clearance issues, How much further do they hang down then the stock exhaust? I'm lowered so ground clearance is a big issue for me.
thanks

 

They fit snug and I did not have to mod anything except the EGR stuff and grind a little on the header port openings.
Hedmans are round and my heads were squarish, I grinded in the corners of the headers a little to get them to flow better.
No O2 bungs, but it costs me $20 for bungs and have them welded in, do this before installing.
One thing about the EGR tubes, they did go into the header tube about a 1/4", but I ground those down.

I used a propane torch to burn the oil off they use to keep from rusting, then cleaned them up and sprayed them w/ceramic paint.
1st paint I used did not last a year, just took them out and resprayed with different paint when I did my heads, had the heads on the car for 3 1/2 years and had very little rust.

Because of the flange thickness, you have to keep the bolts tight and use either copper or aluminum gaskets and use lockwashers or bolts w/lock washers.

Used a Mr Gasket paper 1st and it did not last 1 year.

Have the O2 bungs point in and up at a 45 degree angle and use heated O2's, keeps the O2's from getting soaked in rain.

I have no ground clearance problems, they seem to sit about the same height as headers made for the LT1.

One thing, these are 1 5/8 primaries, if you have a modded car, these are probably to small and will be restrictive.

 

http://www.hedman.com/content/pdf4955.pdf

Read the last box on the document.

 

 

Good pics

 

I picked up 2 starter blankets from jegs or summit, double wrapped the starter and used the same metal band ties that are used on header wrap to secure it.

 

Others have nicer features and thicker flanges. You get what you pay for. the headers are a good deal, just expect that you may need to maintain or replace in time. Not such a bad thing if you want nice looking headers all the time. Just replace.

What I wanted to do: Have the stock l98 manifold flanges welded to the hedmans, and then replace the collector 3 bolt fitting with a ball fitting like that on the cat converter.

I also used copper crush gaskets on the collectors with high temp silicone. I think it is percy's who makes those big silver aluminum gaskets for head flange.


I had them added to each collector. Heated o2 sensor in 1, Air fuel ratio in the other which was a useless gauge.

Not to speak for surfer, but on my L98 I ran a block off plate on the intake for the exhaust cross over tube. Left the egr in place, but the chip I had made disabled it. The hedmans dont have the air injection ports on the headers.
As for the ports, I get that he made the stock hedman round ports kind of square to match the headers to his heads exhaust port. My heads have a D port. It probably would have helped to do the same to match up the ports for air flow.


That would be me.
I dont have a measurement to go off. My engine has been torn down for ages now. life sucks. I could see the collectors under the car if I parked it across the street and looked at it.

I also have AFR heads and a zero decked block. I gather things on my car are different from others.

I ran the hedmans with true dual exhuast with an H pipe. I picked this system up from a forum member 9-10 years ago. when I installed, I had to work the dual exhuast to line up with the hedmans. It should have fit. It fit his car perfectly.

Now I picked up a twin turbo set up from a guy who had an 87. he had the 113 heads, and when I mocked up the turbos/maniflolds, the headers hit my engine mounts and the turbos are about 1/2 an inch into the hood support. It was built for, and fit his 87 perfectly.

I guess my point is, if these other guys are good for the fit, perhaps I have something different going on in my car.

I mainly hit going over speed bumps. when the nose would bounce down crawling over the bump, the headers would hit on the bounce. I was going to stiffen up the suspension a bit to help.
There are some driveways here in Ca that would tear the headers off. I had to go somewhere else. I really was tired of planning enter and exits.

 

bill mcdonald Thanks, I will have to get some of those.

lushdrunk I just bought these to get my car up and running again on the cheap. Later on or on a different car I would go with SW headers. I am just not interested in paying $400 for the same headers with a coating and some other small differences, or the ones that are like $700+. I just wanted some improvement in flow on the stock motor, and if they last a few years I am happy with the $159 for everything.except a($20) 02 bung.