A couple of people were looking at these, and all the info out there is spot on.(obviously), but they are a little work to get in.

1, made spacers for the stock bolts, so I can use the alt brace, but but the bolts are too long and the heads hit the tubes, so I can't screw them in .

2.NEED HEADER BOLTS, and fab bracket for alt, or use one stock for that.

3..had to do some cutting to get the passenger in from the top, to avoid wrecking the dip stick ETC.

4. took me about 4 hours on and off with little stuff here and there, I still don't have the pipes on, debating if I should cut my stainless and have them flare to match, or use my extensions.

5.had to pull starter

6,advice to other, probably better of to get the more expensive ones, especially if they fit better.

 

One thing on nbr 1.

Use the stock stud and 3 nuts and you do not need to fab anything.

Screw stud into head and tight w/one nut.
Screw 2nd nut down till it stops on the center, put brackets on and tighten down w/3rd nut.

Pull the dip stick tube out.

 

I just made a new bracket for the back of the alt to deal with the angles needed to go around the primary tube on #1, and a spacer for the stock bolt. But I moved the stock bolt over to the 3rd head bolt.

I used all header bolts minus the alternator bracket.

Cut what?
Mine slid in without a hitch. It actually seems like one of the easiest cars to get headers in.

Of course. You need wiggle room.

I dont think fitment is the issue. the issue is quality. The thin metal at the head flange and the collectors will bend.
You need to keep an eye on the flange bolts, mine liked to get loose.

My biggest bitch about them was the lack of ground clearence. I was not really lowered as well. some driveways were over for me.

I keep saying this, at $150 think of them as a maintence item. they will probably be used up in 2 years. I would toss them and replace every 2 years.

I had hedans for a little over a year. Ended up with an exhaust leak I could not trace which confused the O2 sensor and caused some engine issues on and off load.

I picked up TPIS headers but never installed. The quality of things like the head flange and the spacers built in so you can use stock exhaust bolts was a huge plus. the collector slip system I am not sure about, but would say it is probably a lot better.

Seems like a normal install. few hickups to work through. Nothing really goes smooth the first time.

At the end of the day I am sure you will love how the headers make the car.

 

Did ya end up wrapping them?

 

I can't get the threads started in the head with the stock one for the alt brace, because the bolt and the nut that is on it are too long and hitting against the tube, so it makes it angled.
I left the dip stick on.
I had to trim on a brace up front to get it in from the top. I am not the only one, I seen a thread where (Yorrci) IIRC had to also. The driver side dropped right in though.
nothing too serious.

 

No. I will let this paint burn off, then either get brush on paint, or I seen some racers and hotrodders use some black stove polish, or some other stuff that is silver or black, and just wipe with a rag, every year or so.
No big investment, just wanted better exhaust for now.

I can say one thing, there is no Fekking way I would want to do them with all the smog and a/c crap on there.

 

those headers were soooo easy to install i had to modify nothing at all and i am very pleased with it

 

So you used the stock bolts?
What did you do for your alt brace?

 

stock stud and bolts for alt and ac bracket other than that i used the bolts they came with

 

Not sure on your year car, but when i installed mine I reused the stock bolts/nuts for both Alt and A/C brackets. I used my orginal A/C bracket and for the Alt bracket I went to autozone and bought one of the old time chrome Alt brackets and cut it down. Usind a bench vise bent it around so it fit.

 

I have a 90'.
So you got the alt stud with the nuts on it to fit in next to the tube?
I can't get it to go in, and I can't get it started in the heads.

I ordered header bolts, and I will use the stock stud where I can fit it, and fab a brace out of left over pbraces, or hopeful;ly, I can get it started in the head.

 

Mine did not come with any bolts, maybe I got screwed

 

Hedman's do come w/bolts, call them.

 

Mine did too!... they are 10MM about 1.5 inches long or so.
My Alt bolt bracket bolt to header I reused

 

Okay, you guys are a great! I found them I think what happened is I got reducers with them also in the box, and the package was ripped open. they were all over in this wrap stuff.

Thanks again guys for reminding me to check through all the packaging.

Should have been a no brainer, but I checked the boxes and seen nothing, they were in the collectors. Off to finish

 

The only thing I had to modify was the brace that goes to the back of the alternater. I've had mine on for 3 years and have had no problems with them. For the money they're the best mod going

 

header bolts helped a lot

 

the header bolts that came with it are super low profile for a reason some of the tubes are super close to the bolt holes so some bigger bolts wont work..if you re use the stud for the alt bracket you will need to either grind down the bolt head on the stud or you could get a long bolt and a low profile washer type thing thats like an inch and a 1/4 long and just bolt it up like that its hard to explain but just look at it and think of a way to make it work its not hard at all

 

Does anyone know if the headman headers mentioned will fit a LT1? Ive been told as long as you remove the EGR crap L98 headers will work on LT1's. is that true?

 

I believe they are listed 84-91.
I am not sure maybe I have it backwards, but I think you can put LT1 on L98, but not good to put L98 on LT1, not sure why other than the ports maybe. I can't remember right now.