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u-joints, a common simple repair that often gets complicated.
When I worked at a shop (12 years ago) I had the use of a large vise and a shop press, but at home I can still manage using sockets and a hammer, especially on aluminum yokes where you don't need as much force to get the old ones out.
Thanks for all the help guys! i think im gonna wait on the main shaft. the half shafts are more prone to going out right? or would you recomend replacing all 6 at once?
Thanks for all the help guys! i think im gonna wait on the main shaft. the half shafts are more prone to going out right? or would you recomend replacing all 6 at once?
they're cheap enough i'd just do all 6 at once...no sense in getting under the car twice for the same job...
Thanks for all the help guys! i think im gonna wait on the main shaft. the half shafts are more prone to going out right? or would you recomend replacing all 6 at once?
1) the trans is coupled to the rear diff with the C-beam so the angle it operates at is nearly straight most of the time unlike a conventional solid axle rear so they should last longer than a regular car.
2) the half shafts have a 3:1 torque multiplication through the ring and pinion (depending on exact gear ratio) and operate through a wider range of angle so they would likely fail much sooner.
1) the trans is coupled to the rear diff with the C-beam so the angle it operates at is nearly straight most of the time unlike a conventional solid axle rear so they should last longer than a regular car.
2) the half shafts have a 3:1 torque multiplication through the ring and pinion (depending on exact gear ratio) and operate through a wider range of angle so they would likely fail much sooner.