For those who only have a open air filter lid, do you think this would work? If you were to leave your headlights up about 2" by turning the switch back to the parklamp position. Or would the aerodynamic loss outweigh any ram air benefit? Anyone want to test this theory with a G-tech or at the track?

 

I think a quick view at successful racing cars will answer that. I think the real benifit in that idea, would be the colder air since it would be coming from outside the engine bay. Look at a Callaway twin turbo real close.

 

If you could get the front part of the lamp to kick up 2" then have some ducting there that would be cool. It would look odd but cool.

 

If you want colder air but don't want to dirty up the front of your car try the cold air induction package that scoops cooler air up from underneeth(sp) the nose from the same area as the radiator duct.
C44EVER

 

How about removing the head lights from the buckets and turning them all the way on! RAM AIR/AIR BRAKES? :crazy:

 

Back when I was running an almost stock C4 at the track, running with the headlights on lost me .10-.15 at the big end. Oviously this was only at night races that this happened, but I lost a couple of times becuase I was too far off my dial-in. Gave me a big Homer DOH!

 

I guess I need to get a G-tech. Thanks for the responses

 

I guess I dont really understand what you mean by put them up 2".
Is this so that the crack is at the front of the headlights, and the back end of the headlight is up slightly?

Or do you mean you want to spin the all the way open and stop them so there is a 2" crack right before they reach the fully open position?

Either way I dont think it would do a whole lot as the air filter is not right under them. I think you would just be ram airing the engine bay.
Also the hood framing looks to almost seal out the sides of the engine from around the air box.

As for cooler air to the filter:
I ran a test with the stock air filter and mounted a temp gauge in it, the display was on my dash. after getting the car moving, the temp in the air box was the same as outside. it only heat soaked when stopped, where it would clime to about 105 on an 80 degree day. I was going to put heat sheild between the air filter and the radiator shroud to see if I could minimize this.

You can try the G-tech, but what will it really tell you?
Can you run the car back to back and get the same ET/MPH?
I had 13.9 dialed in, run after run on an Auto F-body LT-1. It took 3 hours to get that down pat. My first run was a 14.60, wheel spin was a huge factor in this.
I could not be consistant on my 6 speed corvette for the life of me, and I dont have 3 hours to sit on a deserted street practicing my launch much anymore.

As for the HP numbers on the G-tech, I only saw it produce the same number time and time again on a modded Supra TT, which it gave us 350 Hp running it in 3rd gear. That same car made 350 RWHP, on 3 different chassis dynos, so the Gtech was right on in this case.

On the stock L98 vette, we got 200- 220 hp running it in second gear, with back to back runs. not very consistant here.

With an auto trans car, the G-tech would freak out on shifts showing a lot more power then the car has.

Im not knocking the G-tech, it is a fun little toy. Just saying, if the ram air works, expect to see about .10-.20 difference, and if you do get that difference, just be sure it is not a bogus run.

Sorry, I did not mean for this to turn into a G-tech chat.
:sleep:
Good luck!