C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Still missing. Now two codes.

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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Default Still missing. Now two codes.

So the continuing misfire on my 94 still occures. Was poking around looking for loose vacumm lines as I've had a code 26 for awhile now and recently replaced the EGR valve as the other one was looking pretty ugly inside. So I'm on my last leg and was debating just taking it to the dealer to have them at least do an hour diagnostic on it. Decided to double check the code just now and it now has code H26(egr, charcoal canister, etc) along with H48(MAF circuit messed up). Anybody know any correlation between the two that could help me narrow down a broken sensor/relay or loose hose? Thanks in advance, ill be so glad to have this finally running right.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by McGirk94LT1
So the continuing misfire on my 94 still occures. Was poking around looking for loose vacumm lines as I've had a code 26 for awhile now and recently replaced the EGR valve as the other one was looking pretty ugly inside. So I'm on my last leg and was debating just taking it to the dealer to have them at least do an hour diagnostic on it. Decided to double check the code just now and it now has code H26(egr, charcoal canister, etc) along with H48(MAF circuit messed up). Anybody know any correlation between the two that could help me narrow down a broken sensor/relay or loose hose? Thanks in advance, ill be so glad to have this finally running right.

The MAF messed up will cause the motor to misfire and run like ****. Because it is misfiring, your dumping raw gas into the exhaust and causing the EGR code.

Go outside and disconnect your MAF and crank the car. It will idle high at about 1000rpm but it should be running smoothly and all cylinders firing . It might take it a minute of running to clear up if it has been misfiring for a long time.
If it runs smooth you have an issue with your MAF try cleaning it and if that does not work then replace it.

But with that said, A bad spark plug or wire, or even the opti could cause the two codes mentioned by doing basically the same thing. With a dead cylinder your air intake readings and exhaust will be all screwed up.
Best way to check for a bad plug wire is to open the hood at night and look for an glowing spark plug wire. But most of the time an ignition problem can be detected by ear. If at higher RPM's the motor seems to smooth out then most likely you have bad plug wires.

My guess still says it is something to do with the MAF.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by McGirk94LT1
So the continuing misfire on my 94 still occures. Was poking around looking for loose vacumm lines as I've had a code 26 for awhile now and recently replaced the EGR valve as the other one was looking pretty ugly inside. So I'm on my last leg and was debating just taking it to the dealer to have them at least do an hour diagnostic on it. Decided to double check the code just now and it now has code H26(egr, charcoal canister, etc) along with H48(MAF circuit messed up). Anybody know any correlation between the two that could help me narrow down a broken sensor/relay or loose hose? Thanks in advance, ill be so glad to have this finally running right.
when I had my 26, it was the evap solenoid.
48, check for dirty connection.
Does your cruise control work?
If not, your leak is probably in one of the lines going to or from the CC.
Also, replace the 2 rubber connectors going from the FPR to the intake.
Check the EGR lines, a bad vacuum leak going into the EGR solenoid will cause a 26.

I do not usuall recommend throwing parts at a problem, but vacuum lines and connectors are cheap and it is so hard to detect vacuum leaks, because it might not leak at idle, but under a load it will.
$25 and you can replace all your hoses and connectors.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 04:07 PM
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Been checking and hunting for leaks last two days but I think I'll just go ahead and do that tomorrow, buy any new hose I can get. LOng version of this story is had a shop build me a whole new cat back with random x pipe and magnaflow mufflers. Within two weeks it started lightly acting up which apparently can mess up the egr since its back pressure based , figured the exhaust might have set it off. Got so bad so quick it would hardly turn over or idle right so took it to a dealer and they said my fuel sending unit was bad so had them replace that and fuel filter since it was already there. Started up fine from there on out but still missing. Uh
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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Sorry. Posting from phone is tough. So continued acting up. That was months ago. Bout two months ago check engine light finally came on giving me false hope. Was code 26. NOw just today decided to check it and is now throwing both 26 and 48. the end
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 05:31 PM
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If the system was running very rich, you could have fouled some plugs and rich exhaust running through the EGR could have messed that up also.
Running rich can cause a whole host of problems, also foul o2's.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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Thanks so far guys. So went to work(fifteen minute drive) started popping about ten minutes into the drive while cruising. Left work, let it warm up, cruised around the lot for five minutes and check engine came on. Somehow this time was only code 26 again, not 48. Figured id unplug the maf anyway on ride home and ran good for first few minutes, then back on highway and started missing again. Just went out and finally saw a fishy looking hose. From the throttle body to the passenger side valve cover, there is a thick plastic molded ccv hose(im assuming crankcase ventilation?) that is less then 10% sliding out on each end. So pulled the throttle body end out and part of the plastic came out while part of the plastic must have been cracked and stock in the rubber fitting. Could this cause a vacume leak to interfear with the egr circuit or is it run on a seprate vacume? Please say this five minute fix is the cause of months of PITA
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