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Not cheep at all 561.00 for the compressor at rockauto.com. The clutch which is extra is 219.00. 462 at TLD w/o clutch, 329 at Advanced Auto for 329 WITH the clutch (remanufactured)
Which compressor are you talking about. I got quotes on the R4 and none were over $200. Several closer to $100. Can't remember about new or rebuilt, but I think Jeff Kopp had them for around $150 new. Don't quote me. Course if it's the later one, then they are more.
My compressor have a noise then I will need to remplace, before contaminate the system. (valve,condensor,bottle)
Glock 94:
I believe tha same but I can´t find anycar that use the same.
wash 557:
Yes, the 84,85-87 compressor are cheap but the newers are expensive !
Vent:
Good luck !, I will follow this, to know the best way to
regards
Re: where can i get a compreser (Eduardo L98 1991)
88 through 96 use Nippondenso 10PA20C compressors. There are subtle differences between the model years since some systems used R12 and some R134 and some of them use sealing washers to connect the main hose instead of o-rings. Best to replace a compressor before it seizes, but I'd make sure it's not the clutch bearing making the noise before replacing the compressor. You can also try to rebuild these compressors with a gasket kit and new shaft seal from http://www.acsource.com. I've been told to watch the Discount Auto Chain rebuilds, especially if they're remans from Factory Air or Everco - supposedly they're junk and will shortly fail if they're not all ready broken when you buy them. The Last Detail appears to have the best compressor price and is at least an authorized AC Delco distributor (per AC Delco's web site).
Re: where can i get a compreser (Eduardo L98 1991)
Dealer list is $665.31 (no clutch). The Last Detail - http://www.tld-corvette.com - is the best I've seen at $462 (again no clutch). The AC Delco part # is 15-2640. The Last Detail reverses all the AC Delco #'s and shows it as 510462. They are an authorized distributor and it should be a brand new part. I'd still look into your noise a little further before you replace it. Any obvious signs of leaks - oil on the hood above the compressor or on the evaporator (remove the blower module from the firewall to gain access to the evaporator). You might also want to check the air gap between the pressure plate (disc in front of the clutch pulley) and the clutch pulley (engine off of course). Should be .02 inch. Then you might want to pull the pressure plate off and see if there's any "play" in the pulley. Remove the belt from the compressor first. The plate is held on with a 10 mm bolt. Hold the plate with oil filter pliers while you remove the bolt. With the bolt off, the plate will slide right off. Do it slowly, as there are shims in it which you don't want to lose. If there is play in the pulley, the bearing is probably shot and a new clutch assembly may cure your noise. If the air gap is too wide, you can remove some of the shims until it's back within specs (.02 inch). Also, if you have access to a manifold gauge set, hook it up and read your low and high side pressures with the engine warm, the cooling fan running and your engine at 2000 rpm. Your high side should be about 2.2 to 2.3 times the outside air temp with the fan running. Look for low side pressures between 25 and 32 when the clutch is engaged at outside air temps of 70 to 80 degrees. If your pressures are normal and your vent temps cold (44 to 48 degrees at the above temps), I'd again suspect that the clutch assembly is causing the noise. If pressures aren't normal, then you may just need to recharge, but I'd get a good shop to leak check everything first and if it has been leaking, you've lost some of the oil with the charge so you will want to put in an ounce or two in with the refigerent. The clutch pulley is held on with a snap ring as is the coil which is underneath it. You don't have discharge the system to replace it, though you're lucky as the last time I was in Mexico, R12 was $3 a can at Autozone and you don't need a license to buy it! Hope this helps - I'd hate to see you spend big $'s and still have the noise.
Thanks for your great answer !
Unfortunately I need to raplace the compressor, the best friend of my father have an automotive A/C service, and my uncle sells the freon, then I don´t need to pay a $ of material and service.
When I bought the car, the before owner have overheating problems (dirty radiator) then the a/c receives a lot of heat.
The clutch is ok, but I want to buy a new one.
The $462 price compressor only sound the best at this moment.
Here in the chevrolet wants $1,400.00 usd (with clutch) !
Sounds that you know abou this, what is your opinion about the qwikboost r134a additive ?
I believe that I can´t use because my car have r-12 and this additive is to use with r-134a. ?
Do you know the price of the clutch ?
Regards
Eduardo
Re: where can i get a compreser (Eduardo L98 1991)
The Last Detail lists the Clutch at $185. No, you can't use R134 quick boost or anything else that has to do with R134 if R12 is what you have. You could always convert, but I don't think you will see the vent temps you get by staying with R12. Besides the compressor and clutch, you should replace the Accumulator ($59 at the Last Detail) if it is over 5 years old. The shop should pull and clean the orifice ($6) also or just replace it. Finally, make sure they flush the condensor, lines and evaporator before they pull a vacuum and recharge. The shop should have all the o-rings and/or sealing washers needed to do the job though sometimes they're included with the new parts. Refigerent capacity (R12) is 2.25 pounds or 36 ounces (some service manuals show it at 2.75 pounds, but that's wrong). Oil charge is 8 ounces.