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Hi, I have a 1985 Z51 with a 4+3 tranny and I think that my intermittent start problem is due to a bad starter. Today my car would not start, so I hooked up a jumper box and it fired right up. The battery is brand new so I think that only really leaves the starter? Now for the real question, I need advice on a replacement starter that people have had good luck with. Im hoping to get one that is a bit more durable than the stock ones as I have heard these cars are known for eating starters. Also, I might do long tube headers in the future and I hear that the starter size/placement comes into play there.
starter intermitant when cold, hot, both?...if only when hot, may be 'heat soak' of solenoid/starter from adjacent exhaust pipe...quick/fun cure is a couple of empty bud cans split open and strapped to the exhaust pipe with radiator hose clamps, leave a small air gap between beer can and exhaust pipe...look at the barbecue guards on a harley exhaust near the footpegs if confused.
I would have to say its only when hot. If the car has been sitting over night it starts up first try. However, it does crank for awhile sometimes before starting and that is when its hot and cold.
There is also a switch on the clutch pedal that will only allow the car to start if the pedal is pushed in. You might check that out, also. You cannot see it as it is way up under there, but there are 2 large green wires and a connector. Next time you have a no start condition, jumper those wires to see if it will start. The switch you can see on the pedal is to the cruise control.
How much is one of these vs a normal starter? Where can I get it? any other benifits besides size?
Like Pacer I got mine at Advance about 8 years ago but I bair a lot more for mine. I bought one for my sons 71 three years ago NAPA. Was something like $160.00 I think Summitt has them for $150 or so. Major benefit is power and,IMHO, reliability plus they are much easier to install.
I would have to say its only when hot. If the car has been sitting over night it starts up first try. However, it does crank for awhile sometimes before starting and that is when its hot and cold.
back/day Gm issued a TSB for chevy powered motorhomes that had 'hot start' woes, suggested adding a second, remote, starter solenoid (similar to common Ferd solenoid, but acdelco p/n,long ago forgotten)...wiring IIRC took all power thru the remote solenoid, then to the chevy solenoid output lug with a jumper there to the chevy solenoid tiny 's' lug...this 'crutch' always seemed a bit odd, but we did use it with satisfactory results on many go-fast boats that balked when hot.
cranking 'awhile' at starting (< 10 sec) is actually a good as oil pressure builds before bearings get hammered...having your engine last forever is not good for dealer sales figures...if you crave that 'new car' smell and 'instant' start, check your fuel pressure for rapid bleed down when engine stops.
If you can hear the starter solenoid click but no cranking, you may have a blackened pitted contact in the starter motor that can be replaced. At the end of the stroke of the solenoid, two large copper contacts are forced together to switch 12v to the starter motor and these contacts get blackened and pitted and eventually don't make a low enough resistance connection to supply the 100+ amps the starter motor requires.
When the car won't start, I turn the key and nothing happens. No clicking or anything. Also, lately the time it takes before it will finally start has become progressively longer.
When it won't crank, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch at base of gear shift if automatic) and jump the socket and try a crank. There must be 12v on the jumper in crank position or you have trouble ahead of the safety switch. You can test your starter by jumping 12v to the jumper on the switch, the starter should crank.
When it won't crank, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch at base of gear shift if automatic) and jump the socket and try a crank. There must be 12v on the jumper in crank position or you have trouble ahead of the safety switch. You can test your starter by jumping 12v to the jumper on the switch, the starter should crank.
On your back, head in the driver footwell, look at the outside of the footwell (left side as the seated driver would see it) and you will see the clutch safety switch. Unplug the connector on the switch and jump the two wires on the connector and then try a crank.
I believe everything you'd see on Summit is a smaller starter than stock, but I havent looked recently. Basically you can do that or just get an 88-91 starter. We have a 153-tooth flywheel.
The 88-91 one is going to be about the same thing as an advertised "mini" starter. It fits your car with a little shimming and a wire extension.
Jumping the safety switch is a good place to start but make sure the car is IN NEUTRAL or you are depressing the clutch before turning the key. I know this is a no brainer but everybody will have a brain fart every now and then.
GM starters are known for heat soak issues. I had a Suburban that would not start hot. I used a bent screw driver to briefly cross the solenoid contacts. Just a bump was all it took, then it fired up with the key. You dont wanna have to push start a 5800 lb vehicle by yourself! I havent had this issue with my Vette and I dont know if you can get to it to try it. Again, make sure the car is in neutral.
I would say tho if your planning on headers, go ahead and get a mini. Your install will go better and the additional clearance will help with heat soak.
You mentioned long cranking even when cold. Turn the key to the On position for about 10 seconds before cranking. If it fires right up, you may have a fuel issue, fuel pump, brittle/cracked fuel lines, etc. If this doesnt help, your starter may be going south. Time to UPGRADE! Like we need an excuse