C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

92 won't start...looking for direction.

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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 10:06 PM
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Default 92 won't start...looking for direction.

Just some background...changed out waterpump, opti, plugs, wires, and painted valve covers. I ran the engine a few times after all but the removal and painting of valve covers...ran great no issues.

Go everything back together and everything seems hooked up and connected and now it won't fire. Everything electical seems to be working except anything with the ignition system...turn the key and nothing.

The only bad through everything was the temp sesor on the water pump broke.

Anyone willing to share their knowledge here....After all that work I'm looking for the light at the end of the tunnel. Not to mention I just about finished with all the prep work prior to paint. As you all know it a uneasy feeling with my vette not running and just sitting there.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:22 AM
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Do you have your Factory Service Manual (FSM). Start with the basics, (air, fuel, spark) and troubleshoot from there.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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Did you replace the sensor?
If you have no spark, check all connections again. Especialy the ICM and coil, you might have knocked one loose taking off the valve covers.

You mean it won't fire as in turn over or no fire as in no spark, you need to be as specific as possible, the better info you give, the better the diagnosing is.

Did you check spark at the plugs and then the coil wire and so forth backwards?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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To clarify...I haven't checked for spark yet. The engine doesn't turn over. I turn the key and nothing. I'm leaning towards coil/ICM. Whats a good check to see if these are operating correctly?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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Vats?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by t8j1w72
To clarify...I haven't checked for spark yet. The engine doesn't turn over. I turn the key and nothing. I'm leaning towards coil/ICM. Whats a good check to see if these are operating correctly?
ICM and coil have nothing to do w/engine turning over.
Check the wiring harness on passenger side, dead battery, loose battery cable.

Does the dash light up, man give on the details.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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Alright...here's where I went tonight with it...yes dash lights up.

Tried my other key and still nothing with hopes of eliminating the Vat issue. Bought a coil just in case.

Turn the key and nothing...all electronics appear to still be functional...just not ignition system being engaged...
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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Just an off-the-cuff answer...I'd think you either have a connector either loose, unconnected or you broke a wire when removing the passenger side valve cover.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by t8j1w72
Alright...here's where I went tonight with it...yes dash lights up.

Tried my other key and still nothing with hopes of eliminating the Vat issue. Bought a coil just in case.

Turn the key and nothing...all electronics appear to still be functional...just not ignition system being engaged...
Not the coil!!!!!! Forget about that stuff.

What is the voltage of the battery?

Did you make sure the cables are tight?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:26 PM
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After you check the battery and if it is good. Then have someone check the voltage at the starter while you turn the key.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by surfer92
Not the coil!!!!!! Forget about that stuff.

What is the voltage of the battery?

Did you make sure the cables are tight?
Yea, really, none of the ignition parts will affect the starter.

If the battery's over 11.5, it will spin the starter. But, the starter solenoid's not getting voltage when you turn the key to start. Could be the starter relay, could be VATS.

You have to jump the ADL and pull the codes. That will tell you if there's anything messed up in the VATS.

Codes: 51, 52, 53, 54, 61, 62, 63 are all related to VATS. The will show up as H (history) and will be in the first module, 1.1.

When you have a VATS condition like a pass key error, that dash will light up and when you turn the key to start, nothing will happen.

And the first time you turn the key to "start", you will start the VATS "timeout" timer which will not let you start the car at all (even with a good key) for 5 minutes (sometimes a bit longer, like 8 min).

IF during that 5 minute timeout, you try and start the car again, all you do is reset the timer and you have to wait again.

If there's no codes, then you have diagnois the starter and starter enable relay circuit with the FSM.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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I know the battery cable are on tight and i've had it on a tender for the winter. It has been off however for the past two weeks. I'll check voltage across the battery tonight and first hopeful check.

I also checked the fuses in the passenger side panel and everything was good.

After that i'll have to recruit some help to check voltage at starter.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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Battery voltage across the terminals came in at 11.08...
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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So needless to say it was the battery...I should've stuck with the KISS theory and kept it simple. Charged it a bit and it fired right up. I just figured it would still turnover, just slow if it was the battery.

oh well, atleast the next noob in my shoes can find this in the archive.

Thanks for the help all!
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by t8j1w72
So needless to say it was the battery...I should've stuck with the KISS theory and kept it simple. Charged it a bit and it fired right up. I just figured it would still turnover, just slow if it was the battery.

oh well, atleast the next noob in my shoes can find this in the archive.

Thanks for the help all!
Having run my battery down twice this week because of a brake switch issue I can tell you that if its below 12v its not turning over. My battery is fairly new (less than 1 yr old) so a jump, get it home and put it on the charger overnight and good to go.
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