C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake Rotors Stuck

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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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Default Brake Rotors Stuck

94 with 54,000 miles has the original rotors. Would like to replace the rotors however cannot get them off. Got the caliper and caliper bracket off. Rotor won't budge. Chevy dealer did a brake job at 30,000 and turned the rotors at that time. Also discovered that the rotors are 13". Thought the 94's came with 12" rotors. Any advise on getting the rotors off would be appreciated.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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There's nothing but age holding them on. The caliper and lug nuts hold the rotor on.
Try a sharp wack on the back side with a rubber mallet.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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i use a large 3-jaw (leg ?) gear puller and a small chunk of 3/8'' steel abt 3''x3'' at the hub center to load the outer rim of the hub...put tension on the gear puller screw (do not go 'ape' with tension which can bend/bust the rotor) and walk away...return 15 minutes later and most often the lovers will have parted, if not, add a little more tension and leave for a few...in very, very rare cases, heating the rotor at its center with the 'blue tip' has been required
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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If you're getting new ones anyway, just wack 'em with a big hammer. They will come loose
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by airplane50
Also discovered that the rotors are 13". Thought the 94's came with 12" rotors. Any advise on getting the rotors off would be appreciated.
Somebody probably changed the brake setup to a J55 13’ system. My rotors were real tough also to get off the first time due to rust. I remember I ended up doing some pounding. At that time I had the 12” system until I finally changed to the J55.

I just last year replaced my rotors again. Expect to pay around $70-100 or more per rotor. There is a left and right and sometimes they are priced different. They are also directional so the cooling air flows in the right detection.

Use some rust buster and soak it.
Good luck
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
If you're getting new ones anyway, just wack 'em with a big hammer. They will come loose
A BFH is all you should need. You can try squirting some PB Blaster around the hub flange ring and let it sit for a couple hours.

Once the rotor is off, use a wire brush or emery cloth to remove any rust or scale from the hub flange. That surface has to be clean and smooth for the to sit properly. After it's clean you can spray on a light coat of WD-40 to the hub flange. Silicone spray works too. Make sure you wipe away any drips before installing the rotor.

Also clean the mating surface of the rotor. Most rotors come with a coating of oil or paraffin on them and while some techs clean the swept surfaces, they don't always clean the mating surface.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Thanks for all of the responce and ideas. Will try the different methods until they come off. Was going to get the new rotors from Ecklers. The Power Slot at $143.00 ea along with a set of Hawk Pads. What do you think?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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That sounds like a winning combination. I just finished upgrading my rotors to the J55 option yesterday and I put on Performance Friction Pads which work amazingly. One more idea that I might add to the removing of your rotors is to buy some PB Blaster. Just soak it in and pound it with a mallet. That stuff works miracles.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Ruggeri
If you're getting new ones anyway, just wack 'em with a big hammer. They will come loose
'they' who ??

back/day (many) a bud's mom was an O.R. nurse, brought home surplus surgical tubing...three feet of that and a 'selected' maple branch/fork made a super slingshot...for 'ammo' we 8-10 yr-olds would take a big hammer to the 'auto graveyard' on the outskirts of town and, with a good whack to a front hub, acquire a handful of 1/4-3/8'' steel *****...from thirty feet away, a 'good arm' could embed one of those steel ***** into a box alder tree to below the bark.

not too keen on hammering the running gear of my vette
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by airplane50
Thanks for all of the responce and ideas. Will try the different methods until they come off. Was going to get the new rotors from Ecklers. The Power Slot at $143.00 ea along with a set of Hawk Pads. What do you think?
IMHO, Eckler's is way too expensive not only for the initial cost but their shipping charges too.

The Tire Rack has Power Slot rotors and they are a CF Supporting Vendor. They also carry Hawk pads.

As far as swinging on the rotor and concerns about the suspension, Yoiu don't have to swing a BFH like you were going after a homer at Yankee Stadium. A 24-ounce ball peen hammer works fine. If you spray on PB Blaster and let it sit, chances are you will only need a few light strikes around the edges of the rotor.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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Are you going with the powerslot because you want them?
Corvetterecycling has NOS rotors very cheap!

Sometimes just a rap at the outer edge of the rotor from the front will breal it loose.
Now before you do all that make sure there is not a washer like object on any of the studs.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jaa1992
Now before you do all that make sure there is not a washer like object on any of the studs.
Good Point. OP pic looks like aftermarket wheels, possible an adapter is still on there?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by socalman
Good Point. OP pic looks like aftermarket wheels, possible an adapter is still on there?
Checked it out, no adapter. The wheels are American Racing and have the same bolt patern as the saw blades which I still have along with the original Goodyear GSC's. All of the great advice is appreciated. Especially the PB Blaster which I was not aware of and the 3 jaw gear puller. Will also check out Tire Rack for pads & rotors. Thanks
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:45 AM
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When you re-install put some ceramic lube between the hub and rotor so you don't have this problem again.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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It's probably too late now since the rest of the hardware is off the car. But you can try braking in reverse and forwards to try to break the rotor loose from the hub. I don't like using a hammer, because until the rotor breaks free, you are also beating on the wheel hub.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by muskegonbrake
When you re-install put some ceramic lube between the hub and rotor so you don't have this problem again.
I've generally used anti-seize. What is ceramic lube? It sounds interesting.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by muskegonbrake
When you re-install put some ceramic lube between the hub and rotor so you don't have this problem again.
I use anti-sieze on the face of the flange and around the hub.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jaa1992
Are you going with the powerslot because you want them?
Corvetterecycling has NOS rotors very cheap!

.
+1 You can not beat their price for a 4 rotor set NOS for $80.00 in GM boxes. I bought them and very happy with them. Also bought front and rear wheel hubs from them. They are a forum vendor.

Kroil works for me when nothing else does. Spray it on and let it work itself in for 24 hrs. Use a rubber mallet if you have one.

Note that the J55 13" fronts were an option on your 94. They were std equip on my 95.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Aurora40
I've generally used anti-seize. What is ceramic lube? It sounds interesting.
Bendix makes something called Ceramlube that is intended for high heat applications, and brakes specifically.
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