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Fabrication is always a good thing. I have 1 suggestion though. Put the ducting as close to the center as possible. You are going to do a lot more by getting air into the center of the rotor and out through the vanes than you would do by just blowing the air onto the rotor face.
Also another suggestion, see how in the picture above there is a flange covering the rod end? That extra flange is a heat shield so the rod boot doesn't melt.
It looks like the tube is probably to far from the center because you're sitting it up above the ABS sensor. You can have a hole in the duct there so the sensor goes through your metal tube. On my track car I deleted the ABS.
Would you consider making an extra set? I could use a pair.
Last edited by Aardwolf; Apr 13, 2010 at 09:46 AM.
It's definitely fluid boiling, not caliper spreading. Pedal travel doesn't just "grow"...it goes to the the floor. Have to PUMP it to get brakes back.
You're not going to believe this, but I haven't taken the pads off since I bought the car (last spring) and I've tracked it TWICE! I know. It's getting "real" brakes soon. Like I said though; question originiated b/c I had the same problem w/the same symptoms w/the Stealth. That has monoblock 4 piston front calipers. They weren't spreading either. Fluid was boiling.
Does the pedal ever act normal afterwords though? My pedal gets long as well but that is from pad knock back. The pad ends up to far from the rotor and I have to pump the pedal before corners. Usually only after long straights. Could be a sign of worn bearings, rotor run out, caliper design, or very commonly pad taper. These type of calipers tapper the pads quickly, I rotate the pads after a track day.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
*Stock/Base brakes.
*Auto parts store pade (so far; I've only tracked it "as is" after I bought it).
I have j55 on the 92 and run valvoline synpower brake fluid.
I've ONLY had "long pedal" issues on a new track where I over braked.
Air to the brakes would have prevented it, but I haven't done that yet.
I run carbotech xp12 on front and xp8 on the rear.
Your issue is probably the smaller caliper/rotor and cheap pads. Because you have to over brake those to stop you generate a lot of heat and they don't get enough time to cool off. Been there done that.
Does the pedal ever act normal afterwords though? My pedal gets long as well but that is from pad knock back. The pad ends up to far from the rotor and I have to pump the pedal before corners. Usually only after long straights. Could be a sign of worn bearings, rotor run out, caliper design, or very commonly pad taper. These type of calipers tapper the pads quickly, I rotate the pads after a track day.
Yep, after a long cool down (1/2 hour or more), brakes resume completely normal operation. Tight pedal...they're fine. Also, for the first ~5 laps, they work great too. It's not knock back or wheel bearings. Pedal will remain FIRM, for ~4 laps or so, and going into the 5th lap, I start to get longer pedal travel. It goes quick. Once the pedal start to "soften", w/in 4 turns or so, it goes to the floor on the first press. Three full strokes gets my my pedal back...for THAT breaking event. Next turn, pedal is gone again and need to pump three or four times.
If I slow to ~40 mph and avoid using the brakes at all, I can get them back in ~ two laps. Or go into the pits, and the next session, they are good to go again...for ~4 laps.
Your issue is probably the smaller caliper/rotor and cheap pads. Because you have to over brake those to stop you generate a lot of heat and they don't get enough time to cool off.
If indeed it is boiling the fluid that is my guess as well. Like I mentioned before, you are asking those small brakes to do something they aren't able to do.
The only part that baffles me is that the pads aren't fading first and that you say you have 2 days on them. I don't even want to take a guess at what those things must look like right now.
Lol. I hear you loud and clear on all of that. I was CERTAIN, that the first track day would do the pads in. Big time. I mean, you buy a USED car, take it to the track, what can you expect? Not much. But they held up! Then I street drove it for a while, the next track day came, and I figured I'd go ahead and use the pads up then. Buuuuut they're still working!
I have yet to witness pad fade on this car. I did see that on the Stealth, but not this car. Just fluid boiling.
Anyway, all will be fixed this year, but now you can see why I orinially asked about cooling the caliper rather than the rotor, right?
I can post pics of the pads when I take them off if anyone would like to see them. They're probably "glazed" and just wearing out the rotor at this point...
-Tom
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 13, 2010 at 11:59 AM.
Your definitely getting your money's worth! I used some stock C5 Z06 pads for track use and did this to a full set in a weekend:
I know it. I could only get 1 day out of pads on my C6. Granted, they were "slowing down 400hp" instead of 3, but they were much bigger too. 1 day was all they were good for at Miller (lapping days so 5 hours on track), but they never faded or overheated at all.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 13, 2010 at 12:57 PM.
I had DJ Racing machine my caliper pistons. The idea is to let the hot air escape to the atmosphere rather than having it trapped in the interior of the piston.
Here's the cooling duct to the brake rotor. At the front of the car I have a NACA duct rather than bringing the cool air through the spoiler. This was an old Corvette Challenge trick.
The right side is a little tricky since you have to go over the radiator resevoir
The right side is a little tricky since you have to go over the radiator resevoir
Richard Newton
What size tires do you run on the front? I thought about running mine similar to that but there was no way I could do it with my wheels. I had to add more bends in the hose than I would have liked and came at it from the inside. Without hacking up the Greenwood stuff I couldn't put an intake up front the front so I came up with option b.
I'm running 275s up front. I have 315 in the rear. I keep thinking about 315 all around but Goodyear only wanted me to change tire brands - not size. When I wear these out I might go for 315s all around.
I'm running 275s up front. I have 315 in the rear. I keep thinking about 315 all around but Goodyear only wanted me to change tire brands - not size. When I wear these out I might go for 315s all around.
That makes sense. 275s would make a lot of difference up there. The 315s rub even with the way that I ran it when you are turned close to the lock.