Winter tech projects done!
- Energy Suspension poly kit including sway bars and end links. I did not pull the R&P but I'll save those bushings if I ever need to replace it
- New Bilstien shocks all around
- Moog front outer tie rod ends
- Lowered slightly by removing pads on the end of the front spring (left stock wedges) and added lowering bolts in the rear
- Replaced all U-joints with Spicer non-greasable
- Replaced ZF6 rear seal, bushing, and transmission yolk to repair seeping fluid.
- Changed ZF fluid with BMW stuff (shifts much better)
- Added Zfdoc beam plates
- Repaired power anteanna
- Changed diff fluid
- Repaired paint on quarterpanel and gas door and added new gas emblem
- Replaced rear hatch weatherstrip seal after paint
- Added A mold copies with new tires from OE Wheel
So far so good with one exception. I have a shake at around 70mph and I suspect that I need to rotate my driveshaft 180. I forgot to mark it on it's way out and I figured that I had a 50/50 shot at getting it right when it went back in. I'm hoping that does it because I'm trying to avoid rebalancing the entire shaft. Although I did get a new yolk so that may end up happening anyway.....
Other than that, she drives nice and tight. I had the alignment guy put the VBandP advanced street profile on there but with just a little more toe. The ride quality with poly using the old tires was a little firmer but it softened back up a little with the new rubber so I'm happy in that department. I can tell that the bushings are firmer the most when I have the top off because I have much more cowl shake than before. But, I hear that's just the nature of the beast?
Here are some pics of the car before and after. Now I need to wash it and cruise!
Mike
Before


After


The rear seal wasn't too difficult because I ended up taking the entire extension housing off, which enabled me to clamp it down on the workbench. Removing the extension is required if you change the bushing anyway. Once clamped on the bench, I then followed the directions on ZFdoc.com for bushing and seal R&R to the letter with one exception - I used a hacksaw instead of using a sawzall to cut the bushing out and I took my sweet time to do it so I didn't score the housing.
I used the TH400 kit that included the seal and bushing. I started by using the press to push the parts in there about 3/4 of the way so they went in nice and straight. I then tapped them in the rest of the way using a rubber mallet. I used a socket on top of the bushing to seat it the rest of the way with the mallet.
Interestingly enough, I still had a very small amount of seepage around the new seal and yolk once all was said and done. I spoke to Bill B about this and he said that it's normal, I installed it correctly, and not to worry about it until fluid starts hitting the floor. He also recommended packing the seal cavity with grease to combat the issue. I did as recommended and wouldn't you know, it's working perfectly. They don't call him the zfdoc for nothing!
Sumitomos come with the OE wheels and I like them.
Thanks! Mike












