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I finally took a long ride in the car. The overdrive will work sometimes and sometimes it won't. When the overdrive does work it will show the D symbol on the dash and go down the highway with low rpms. But then it will switch the overdrive off and the check engine light will come on and the "D" sysmbol will go off and the rpm's will go very high. I was wondering what this possibly could be. Thanks.
I just had the same problme with my 86 and it was not fixed untill a rebuild on the overdrive. Its ussually a sign of seal failer between overdrive and trans. The gear fluid in the overdrive can cas damage to the overdrive.
I'm in the same boat. We bought an '88 last summer and the seller told us that it was stuck in overdrive. Well, 70MPH and 3000RPM does not sound to me like the overdrive is 'on'. I had to repair the button switch on the shifter to get it to have D on or off on the dashboard. When the D is off, I can downshift and feel it. When the D is on, I can down shift and not notice a difference, I don't know why that is. I have also measure a voltage change at the wire that goes into the Overdrive unit when I press the button...so in my case it looks like something in the O/D itself. I have a plan to take it to a shop when I can get a morning off work.
I finally took a long ride in the car. The overdrive will work sometimes and sometimes it won't.
Low fluid will do that amounst other things
Check fluid level in O/d 1st
If last service not known or done when due ( every 12K ) drop pan, replace filter and refill.
I finally took a long ride in the car. The overdrive will work sometimes and sometimes it won't. When the overdrive does work it will show the D symbol on the dash and go down the highway with low rpms. But then it will switch the overdrive off and the check engine light will come on and the "D" sysmbol will go off and the rpm's will go very high. I was wondering what this possibly could be. Thanks.
Your problem may not be with the overdrive itself. It sound like your car is coming out of over drive. The ECM will only allow overdrive to be engaged when certain conditions are met. ie: engine temperature;
oil pressure; not in 1st gear; throttle position; Mass Air Flow. If one of these sensors is flaky or it's connection is intermittent the ECM will disengage overdrive. The "check engine light" may have set a code that could give you more information.
I'm in the same boat. We bought an '88 last summer and the seller told us that it was stuck in overdrive. Well, 70MPH and 3000RPM does not sound to me like the overdrive is 'on'. I had to repair the button switch on the shifter to get it to have D on or off on the dashboard. When the D is off, I can downshift and feel it. When the D is on, I can down shift and not notice a difference, I don't know why that is. I have also measure a voltage change at the wire that goes into the Overdrive unit when I press the button...so in my case it looks like something in the O/D itself. I have a plan to take it to a shop when I can get a morning off work.
Drop the pan and check the spade connectors on the OD solenoid....it will do what you are describing if one of the wires disconnected. Sorry to hijack the OP...
I finally took a long ride in the car. The overdrive will work sometimes and sometimes it won't. When the overdrive does work it will show the D symbol on the dash and go down the highway with low rpms. But then it will switch the overdrive off and the check engine light will come on and the "D" sysmbol will go off and the rpm's will go very high. I was wondering what this possibly could be. Thanks.
The OD off and SES light on, suggets there is a problem elsewhere. Pull the code and see what's up.
Thanks everyone. I will take it to Auto zone and see if they can check. Hopefully they have the scanner for a car that old. Where is the hook up for the scanner?
Low fluid will do that amounst other things
Check fluid level in O/d 1st
If last service not known or done when due ( every 12K ) drop pan, replace filter and refill.
I have the X brace off the car and am about to drop the pan. THe filter is inside of the O/D unit? Is this something easily found to purchase new? Also, what kind of fluid goes into the O/D unit?
I have the X brace off the car and am about to drop the pan. THe filter is inside of the O/D unit? Is this something easily found to purchase new? Also, what kind of fluid goes into the O/D unit?
Yes, drop the OD pan and your there. It uses ATF and the filter is just like many Ford filters, such as the one I used. The down side is, it doesn't come with a new grommet, like ones from a Ecklers etc. Mine was still ok, so I went with the Ford filter(cheap).
Well I hooked the car up to scanner and the engine light is not putting out codes. I even tried the paper clip and jump wire and still no codes. I took it for a drive today the engine light was on and the overdrive wouldn't work and didnt really have power and was missing a bit. On the ride home the engine light was still on but the overdrive worked perfect and the car had power and spun 1st 2nd and bit in third. I did put the scanner on and hit clear all codes but the scanner said nothing happend. I don't know whats going on with this car.
Water temp was about 190 oil temp about 220 and volts 14.0 and oil pressure about 55-62. I'm thinking of changing th ECM. where is the ECM located. I found something that looked like it behind the seat and it was unpluged for some reason along with a circuit breaker and when I plug the little breaker box up the ABS light came on.
sometimes a paperclip just isnt conductive enought, try a piece of 12 gauge wire with both ends stripped off then see if you can get a flashing code 12 with the key on engine off
sometimes a paperclip just isnt conductive enought, try a piece of 12 gauge wire with both ends stripped off then see if you can get a flashing code 12 with the key on engine off
I did that also. I tried the OBD with the OBD 1 connector and when I contected and went to search codes it said you need to connect tool. So it wasnt even showing anything on the tester. It was just saying that it was not connected. I did 12 guage wire and the paper clip. I hope it's the ECM. Should I just replace or try to reset it. Im not worried about spending $80.00 on it just want the car to run correct.
After looking at the attachment I do remeber locating a box with a computer chip inside and the box stating that it was a chip to add more power. Is it possible that the chip should go to stock and aybe burnt the ECM out? Also where is the computer chip located?
The chip is mounted into the ECM. The ECM is tucked under the passenger side dash. You have to remove the lower foot well panel and lay on you back and look up. It slides into a mount and is held in with two 10mm hex head screws.
I would try and diagnose the lack of code 12, when you have it hanging down.
The chip is mounted into the ECM. The ECM is tucked under the passenger side dash. You have to remove the lower foot well panel and lay on you back and look up. It slides into a mount and is held in with two 10mm hex head screws.
I would try and diagnose the lack of code 12, when you have it hanging down.
FINALLY!!!!!!!!! Well I pulled the ecm and my tester cam ein today and would not throw the code. The guy I bought the car from still had the stock computer chip. There was a hypertech installed. Well I put the stock one back in and engine light showed all 12. Cleared codes and started up and test drove. Car runs great and transmission is perfect. Thank you everyone for your help. Now I actuallt like my corvette that I bought for only $2,300 because he said its needs transmission becaude it wasnt shifting and running very bad.
Almost forgot to ask. Do you think the chip should not be used in there or do you think that the chip just went bad? Also are they even worth the money? I looked at it and come to find out its a stage 2 chip and not a 1.