PLRX

Updated 10-20-2017

Posted the same photos because Photobucket and the can go a **** themselves.

The procedure was removed in 2011 and I'm not going to write a 1,000-word removal & installation instructions, sorry.

Here are the photos, you'll need tools of all types, and this is not a beginners' task.





















The sway bar needs to be relocated 3/4" forward.





drilled out a hole big enough to reach the new hardware.







Plenty of space

bdw18_123

Looks good!

After you take your first drive in the car with the new coilovers, let us know how it drives/feels compared to the stock setup.



.

PLRX

NAPA sold me the wrong bolts. They said they were grade 8 but they are class 8.8. Note the OEM bolts are class 10.9 and these are class 8.8.

WRONG!

mnstrlt1

I like your idea for the swap bar relocation. I talked to a few guys that have done their own blend of parts (for a coil over setup) and just ended up going with Exotic Muscle end-links. which are very narrow bodied and seem to clear the coil overs completely. Avoiding the dreaded swap bar relocation.

Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame.

PLRX

Thanks, I wanted to go that route but the sway bar was touching the coilover and it needed to be relocated.

WVZR-1

You were shopping in the "wrong" store for the hardware you needed. You should have been attempting to "match" the balance of the hardware used in the asssembly of the suspension components. I was actually going to suggest last evening that you replace the hardware with the "right stuff". You need the correct DIN and 10.9 property class and NOT CAD plated hardware. The bolts & nuts should be washer faced and the nuts should be "prevailing torque" the "right stuff" by part number should be easier to find than "off the shelf" at NAPA, HD. Fastenall yes but they will be a special order and maybe minimum quanities.

The nut for the attatching point in your snapshot will likely require a "hit" with a grinder to clear the original factory weld nut inside.

Your "hole saw cut" is actually a good move and if you made it a popular bore you could likely go behind your self and snap in a "cap plug"! It would finish the install nicely. There are several different styles of "cap plugs" and I won't bother mentioning a type.

If you know the dimensions of the bolts you used I'l supply a GM number for you for the "right stuff"! They will match the balance of the hardware on the car!

BrianCunningham

PLRX

Here I go. Got the right hardware from a store about 30 minutes from home.



Believe it or not all these for $2.94





Coat of paint-



Dave suggested a cap but I could not find one and it will be covered by the inner fender.



Likely I'll continue on Sunday, we got a run this Saturday.

dogfish246

Nice, when you are all done let us know any difference in the ride! It looks like you are doing a good job, taking your time, and doing it neatly!!!

PLRX

Finished the installation last night.

BUT

Before I tell you the future please read the following in case you have installed anything lately.

I noticed the upper control arm was moving, moved like a broken ball joint but that would be impossible because all those parts are brand new and super strong. When I did this rebuild (LT4) I used brand new parts and all were torque to GM FSM specs. The upper and lower ball joints were loose and the upper control arms' nuts were loose.

Obviously haver 1,000+ miles the new components settled, I re-torqued the ball joints to specs and torqued the upper control arms nut to 30 lbs ft because the FSM or the Haynes manual does not offers a spec for them.

I realized I did the same front suspension (not coilovers) rebuild on my LT1 back in May 2008. Opened the hood and The same results.

Gentlemen, check your Vettes, you may have loose bolts.

My torque wrench works and it is within specs. Charlie work on calibration and gave me the wrench's reading and it is good-to-go.

Now, the Vette with the new coilovers it is sitting higher than stock and it has to be lowered. Will be working on that during May and it will have to be re-aligned.

steve40th

Great write up. Good to know about the bolts. On the control arms I used paint to mark the bolts, so if they became loose I would see it.
Also, ACE Hardware has real good bolts, grade 8. Low prices too.

Tom400CFI

Nice work.

PLRX

Thank You Steve. Regarding bolts, I've learned a lot about bolts last Saturday.

Take a look



http://www.chapelsteel.com/mpa-psi.html

NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8.

steve40th

My Last Command in the Navy I worked with NDT(Non destructive tesing) welder. I learned so much about metals to make you sick. Grade 8 is a seriously good bolt. Class is liken to metric vs standard, and its not well known for the average shopper.
If you need serious bolts there are places like fastenal etc that provide quality controls too. But be prepared to pay.

Tom400CFI

Looking for a drivability/ride quality update...

PLRX

I'm down with some flu, sickness or whatever this crap is. I could not walk earlier and the garage was the last place I thought of this weekend,

86PACER

No modification or renforcement to the upper shock tower?

PLRX

No, the coilover does not touch or rub the "tower"

Tom400CFI

Feeling any better? Any update on ride QUALITY?

-Tom

PLRX

Ran into a small problem with my rears. Vette still on JS.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1574160699

I should be done with it by Sunday if I dont run into other BS.