C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

No Pilot Bearing

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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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Default No Pilot Bearing

Does anyone make parts for this orphan trans? First it is no flywheels, then no stud ball and locks.

Now I see that the throwout bearing is discontinued too. Incredible.

Makes me want to unload the car.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Found a throwout bearing for about three times what it is worth.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 11:49 PM
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I feel your pain;

Am collecting parts for a clutch and flywheel swap for my 96LT4;

got my flywheel and clutch disc and plate from SPEC Inc.; they have too many combinations to list here;

got a new GM clutch fork (10085210) $141.62 and new GM clutch fork stud ball (10227809) $44.09 from vpartsinc;

got a new GM throw out bearing (10222087) from ecklers (item # 50583), $89.99 ;

got a new GM throwout bearing collar retaining clip (10111569) $13.49from vpartsinc;

got a new GM roller pilot bearing (14061685) from summit, $14.88

it was difficult; I spent more than a little time tracking all this stuff down, but all the vendors listed above came through. Good luck on your project.

perhaps later you could be kind enough to post a synopsis of your experiences in doing the actual clutch change out.

good luck
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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Wow, absolutely insane! I would bet that ZF's will be very rare in another 10-years, and there will be a lot of C4's either changing to auto's or going to TKO's or Richmond's.

BTW, there are companies that make custom Pilot Bearings.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 01:17 AM
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I've found I have to ask Superior to check their discontinued warehouse for some things.

I got mine a about 4-5 mos ago for $10. Special order thru Superior. Didn't ask where it came from tho.

Does that mean you paid $30?
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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PIlot bearing should be standard SBC unless Im mistaken (and could be). Some like bronze some like roller type.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 01:21 AM
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Thread title is close enough for another question I was going to post.

Believe it or not, I got my ZF out, Fork out, Bell housing off, plus clutch/DFM too. Never saw the pilot/throw out bearing.

Where's it go?


BTW: I have 2 bearings. I ordered the rifled/fluted one (from GM) that ZFDoc recommends. Plus, I got one with my clutch kit.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 01:42 AM
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Got a throwout bearing from Spec. Can also get them from Carolina Clutch, as well as many other places

Pilot bushing is typical SBC

GREGPENN...pilot bearing goes in the end of the crankshaft, Throwout bearing goes with the pressure plate
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
GREGPENN...pilot bearing goes in the end of the crankshaft, Throwout bearing goes with the pressure plate
There is only one loose bearing with kit (which I'll replace with the GM fluted version). The one I'm talking about can be seen in this picture. 1" brass-colored donut.

The pressure plate just has a hole in the center, the clutch plate is splined. The DMF also has a larger hole (similar to the pressure plate). Doesn't seem like any of those would need a bushing. But, I didn't look at the end of the crank -- in either the old motor or the new.

So, it's recessed? Does that bearing press easily in there? Can it fall out during assembly?
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 02:07 AM
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Brass ones I freeze...then put a touch of synth oil on, should press right in with your thumb albeit hard. Never was able to drive them in without hurting them but only a few times. No it wont fall out.

Maybe not the best method but it worked over here.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 02:55 AM
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Sounds like sliding it over the tip of the trans shaft won't work.

Also sounds like the trans shaft spins in the bearing (with clutch pressed in). If it requires lube, how does it STAY lubed?

Is lithium grease good for that?
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 03:05 AM
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They are impregnated with some type of oil no lube needed.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 04:30 AM
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Oil impregnated bronze.

I tried the bearing once instead of the bushing. Oh man, have you ever tried to remove one of those...while the engine is in the car. What a PITA. I'm staying with bushings.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 05:02 AM
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Method to remove pilot bearings without damage or if you do not have a slide hammer.

Use a short piece of round bar stock that fits snugly in the pilot bearing bore. Or a long large diameter bolt that fits & cut the threads off of it. You want a 90 degree edge on the end that will go into the bore.

Insert the end of a grease gun in the bearing bore & pack the recess behind the bearing full of grease.

Insert the tool & give it a sharp rap with a good size hammer. The bearing will move out of the crank a bit by hydraulic pressure. Repack with more grease & repeat the process until the bearing is removed.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
Method to remove pilot bearings without damage or if you do not have a slide hammer.

Use a short piece of round bar stock that fits snugly in the pilot bearing bore. Or a long large diameter bolt that fits & cut the threads off of it. You want a 90 degree edge on the end that will go into the bore.

Insert the end of a grease gun in the bearing bore & pack the recess behind the bearing full of grease.

Insert the tool & give it a sharp rap with a good size hammer. The bearing will move out of the crank a bit by hydraulic pressure. Repack with more grease & repeat the process until the bearing is removed.
That is slick!!
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
got a new GM clutch fork (10085210) $141.62 and new GM clutch fork stud ball (10227809) $44.09 from vpartsinc;

got a new GM throw out bearing (10222087) from ecklers (item # 50583), $89.99 ;


Does this vpartsinc have anymore of the stud *****? My clutch still has alot of miles on it. I am stockpiling parts. The actual clutch swap is nothing out of the ordinary. My trans output shaft didn't want to come out of the clutch. Took alot of persuading. Be careful of the aluminum insulators ( look like gaskets-one between trans and bellhousing and one between bellhousing and block..) They are made of unobtanium.

EDIT: I found a stud ball and the lock on vparts.inc. ZFDOC had told me about them but I had forgotten about it. They are a clearing house for NOS parts.

Cool!! You made my day!!

Did you go with a single mass flywheel?

Last edited by MK 82; Apr 22, 2010 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
Method to remove pilot bearings without damage or if you do not have a slide hammer.

Use a short piece of round bar stock that fits snugly in the pilot bearing bore. Or a long large diameter bolt that fits & cut the threads off of it. You want a 90 degree edge on the end that will go into the bore.

Insert the end of a grease gun in the bearing bore & pack the recess behind the bearing full of grease.

Insert the tool & give it a sharp rap with a good size hammer. The bearing will move out of the crank a bit by hydraulic pressure. Repack with more grease & repeat the process until the bearing is removed.
Yes, that works awesome... for pilot bushings. That is actually how I always remove pilot bushings and I use a wooden dowel with a snout on it that fits in the bore of the bushing for removal and to also gently tap it into place in instillation.

This technique, in my experience, does not work for pilot bearings.

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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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I never tried the grease method but it sounds very doable.

They do make pullers to get the old pilot bushings out: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

The only time these don't work well if the origional bushing was bottomed out all the way back into the crank though.

You and freeze the new busing to reduce the diameter or you can just bang it home.

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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MK 82
That is slick!!
Slick is right! Yeah I tried the grease packing method once . The bearing never moved and I ended up all slick and greasy! Took and hour to clean up the mess!
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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I use the grease method, but I use a Metric socket that is a slip fit in the Pilot bearing ID,,,, I use a socket extension in the end, tap the end with a hammer, and them fill with more grease
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