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Am collecting parts for a clutch and flywheel swap for my 96LT4;
got my flywheel and clutch disc and plate from SPEC Inc.; they have too many combinations to list here;
got a new GM clutch fork (10085210) $141.62 and new GM clutch fork stud ball (10227809) $44.09 from vpartsinc;
got a new GM throw out bearing (10222087) from ecklers (item # 50583), $89.99 ;
got a new GM throwout bearing collar retaining clip (10111569) $13.49from vpartsinc;
got a new GM roller pilot bearing (14061685) from summit, $14.88
it was difficult; I spent more than a little time tracking all this stuff down, but all the vendors listed above came through. Good luck on your project.
perhaps later you could be kind enough to post a synopsis of your experiences in doing the actual clutch change out.
Wow, absolutely insane! I would bet that ZF's will be very rare in another 10-years, and there will be a lot of C4's either changing to auto's or going to TKO's or Richmond's.
BTW, there are companies that make custom Pilot Bearings.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
GREGPENN...pilot bearing goes in the end of the crankshaft, Throwout bearing goes with the pressure plate
There is only one loose bearing with kit (which I'll replace with the GM fluted version). The one I'm talking about can be seen in this picture. 1" brass-colored donut.
The pressure plate just has a hole in the center, the clutch plate is splined. The DMF also has a larger hole (similar to the pressure plate). Doesn't seem like any of those would need a bushing. But, I didn't look at the end of the crank -- in either the old motor or the new.
So, it's recessed? Does that bearing press easily in there? Can it fall out during assembly?
Brass ones I freeze...then put a touch of synth oil on, should press right in with your thumb albeit hard. Never was able to drive them in without hurting them but only a few times. No it wont fall out.
Maybe not the best method but it worked over here.
I tried the bearing once instead of the bushing. Oh man, have you ever tried to remove one of those...while the engine is in the car. What a PITA. I'm staying with bushings.
Method to remove pilot bearings without damage or if you do not have a slide hammer.
Use a short piece of round bar stock that fits snugly in the pilot bearing bore. Or a long large diameter bolt that fits & cut the threads off of it. You want a 90 degree edge on the end that will go into the bore.
Insert the end of a grease gun in the bearing bore & pack the recess behind the bearing full of grease.
Insert the tool & give it a sharp rap with a good size hammer. The bearing will move out of the crank a bit by hydraulic pressure. Repack with more grease & repeat the process until the bearing is removed.
Method to remove pilot bearings without damage or if you do not have a slide hammer.
Use a short piece of round bar stock that fits snugly in the pilot bearing bore. Or a long large diameter bolt that fits & cut the threads off of it. You want a 90 degree edge on the end that will go into the bore.
Insert the end of a grease gun in the bearing bore & pack the recess behind the bearing full of grease.
Insert the tool & give it a sharp rap with a good size hammer. The bearing will move out of the crank a bit by hydraulic pressure. Repack with more grease & repeat the process until the bearing is removed.
got a new GM clutch fork (10085210) $141.62 and new GM clutch fork stud ball (10227809) $44.09 from vpartsinc;
got a new GM throw out bearing (10222087) from ecklers (item # 50583), $89.99 ;
Does this vpartsinc have anymore of the stud *****? My clutch still has alot of miles on it. I am stockpiling parts. The actual clutch swap is nothing out of the ordinary. My trans output shaft didn't want to come out of the clutch. Took alot of persuading. Be careful of the aluminum insulators ( look like gaskets-one between trans and bellhousing and one between bellhousing and block..) They are made of unobtanium.
EDIT: I found a stud ball and the lock on vparts.inc. ZFDOC had told me about them but I had forgotten about it. They are a clearing house for NOS parts.
Method to remove pilot bearings without damage or if you do not have a slide hammer.
Use a short piece of round bar stock that fits snugly in the pilot bearing bore. Or a long large diameter bolt that fits & cut the threads off of it. You want a 90 degree edge on the end that will go into the bore.
Insert the end of a grease gun in the bearing bore & pack the recess behind the bearing full of grease.
Insert the tool & give it a sharp rap with a good size hammer. The bearing will move out of the crank a bit by hydraulic pressure. Repack with more grease & repeat the process until the bearing is removed.
Yes, that works awesome... for pilot bushings. That is actually how I always remove pilot bushings and I use a wooden dowel with a snout on it that fits in the bore of the bushing for removal and to also gently tap it into place in instillation.
This technique, in my experience, does not work for pilot bearings.
Slick is right! Yeah I tried the grease packing method once . The bearing never moved and I ended up all slick and greasy! Took and hour to clean up the mess!
I use the grease method, but I use a Metric socket that is a slip fit in the Pilot bearing ID,,,, I use a socket extension in the end, tap the end with a hammer, and them fill with more grease