I keep getting this code. Sometimes my engine runs rough especially around 1800rpms. Can I just buy the block off plates and remove the EGR? I will still get the codes unless its programed out of the ECM right, but it might solve the roughness at 1800rpm if it is being caused by the EGR. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

its been a while since I had this one. Sometimes EGR's get built up with soot and need to be cleaned/repaced. If your talking L98, sometimes you can take a dentist mirror and place it under the egr and see if it has movement.

 

Why not find & fix the problem correctly?

 

Because the idea of running the exhaust back thru the intake never did make any sense to me especially on a performance car like the LT1 Corvette. Why spend money to do something that sure doesn't help performance when you can spend less money and may be make a little more. (you asked ). If later on I do a cam, heads, headers I will sure block that thing. I was just wondering if for now I could get by with something simple and how it would effect the computer and the lean, enrich of the fuel that goes with the egr performance. As I understand it the ecm leans the fuel when the exhaust is being dumped into the intake because it's not the same as air.

 

Engineers have used an inert substance to lower combustion temps for sometime now - early on it was water, but that required a finite supply which you might forget to fill - so exhaust became the magic elixir and it does the job quite well. Otherwise, it'll knock, and with that, it's going to pull timing or damage your motor - so right now - with the Code present, it's isn't getting optimal fuel or timing which hopefully keeps it from falling apart. Anyway, if you want to eliminate the Code and get it back to some level of decent cruise night performance, you'll need to re-engineer how it runs. That usually requires a new CAM with just a little more overlap in it which keeps enough exhaust in the combustion chamber to lower combustion temps and once you accomplish that, a new tune for the PCM would also help. Or - grab a Service Manual and follow the trouble tree for how you fix it.

 

FYI did some research on the EGR function, kind of interesting. The EGR circulates the exhaust gasses back into the intake to help with emissions. The EGR valve shuts off the exhaust gas recirculation at idle and also at WOT. The reason for this is that exhaust is inert (non combustible since the air and fuel have already been burned) so it reduces combustion by reducing the temp in the cylinder, that makes for less NO (smog) but it also reduces power if it comes in at WOT so it can't be called a "performance item", its just the opposite but if it functions properly it doesn't hurt performance, and it actually helps with emissions and prolongs valve life. It can significantly reduce performance if it does not work properly as mine was.
The code 32 I was getting (I think I fixed it but will only know after driving it more) made me remove the EGR valve, you would not believe how dirty it was, full of crud. I blew into it since i knew it should be closed at idle, it wasn't. Air went right past the "closed" valve. That means that exhaust gasses were continually going into the intake, making rough idle and hurting WOT. I cleaned it out until it sealed and no air could be blown by it in the closed position. This really helped my idle and WOT, it makes a big difference in performance if even a little exhaust is getting in the intake all the time. We spend big money to make the flow of air and fuel into the intake optimum, but if you are at the same time putting inert exhaust in with it all the time you defeat the purpose. Anyway if you have poor performance, rough idle you might want to check the EGR, just cleaning it may really help as it did mine. I also found a new one costs 65+ smackers, I just hate to think of spending any money on something that puts inert gas in the cylinder so this free fix was great. Hope this helps.