Coilovers Installation (Front)
#1
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Coilovers Installation (Front)
Updated 10-20-2017
Posted the same photos because Photobucket and the can go a **** themselves.
The procedure was removed in 2011 and I'm not going to write a 1,000-word removal & installation instructions, sorry.
Here are the photos, you'll need tools of all types, and this is not a beginners' task.
The sway bar needs to be relocated 3/4" forward.
drilled out a hole big enough to reach the new hardware.
Plenty of space
Posted the same photos because Photobucket and the can go a **** themselves.
The procedure was removed in 2011 and I'm not going to write a 1,000-word removal & installation instructions, sorry.
Here are the photos, you'll need tools of all types, and this is not a beginners' task.
The sway bar needs to be relocated 3/4" forward.
drilled out a hole big enough to reach the new hardware.
Plenty of space
Last edited by PLRX; 10-20-2017 at 08:35 PM.
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xrav22 (10-20-2017)
#2
Drifting
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Looks good!
After you take your first drive in the car with the new coilovers, let us know how it drives/feels compared to the stock setup.
.
After you take your first drive in the car with the new coilovers, let us know how it drives/feels compared to the stock setup.
.
Last edited by bdw18_123; 04-25-2010 at 12:30 AM.
#3
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NAPA sold me the wrong bolts. They said they were grade 8 but they are class 8.8. Note the OEM bolts are class 10.9 and these are class 8.8.
WRONG!
WRONG!
#4
Melting Slicks
I like your idea for the swap bar relocation. I talked to a few guys that have done their own blend of parts (for a coil over setup) and just ended up going with Exotic Muscle end-links. which are very narrow bodied and seem to clear the coil overs completely. Avoiding the dreaded swap bar relocation.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame.
#5
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I like your idea for the swap bar relocation. I talked to a few guys that have done their own blend of parts (for a coil over setup) and just ended up going with Exotic Muscle end-links. which are very narrow bodied and seem to clear the coil overs completely. Avoiding the dreaded swap bar relocation.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame.
Although I would prefer this method, because it's clean and causes the least amount of alteration to the frame.
#6
The nut for the attatching point in your snapshot will likely require a "hit" with a grinder to clear the original factory weld nut inside.
Your "hole saw cut" is actually a good move and if you made it a popular bore you could likely go behind your self and snap in a "cap plug"! It would finish the install nicely. There are several different styles of "cap plugs" and I won't bother mentioning a type.
If you know the dimensions of the bolts you used I'l supply a GM number for you for the "right stuff"! They will match the balance of the hardware on the car!
#8
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Here I go. Got the right hardware from a store about 30 minutes from home.
Believe it or not all these for $2.94
Coat of paint-
Dave suggested a cap but I could not find one and it will be covered by the inner fender.
Likely I'll continue on Sunday, we got a run this Saturday.
Believe it or not all these for $2.94
Coat of paint-
Dave suggested a cap but I could not find one and it will be covered by the inner fender.
Likely I'll continue on Sunday, we got a run this Saturday.
#10
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Finished the installation last night.
BUT
Before I tell you the future please read the following in case you have installed anything lately.
I noticed the upper control arm was moving, moved like a broken ball joint but that would be impossible because all those parts are brand new and super strong. When I did this rebuild (LT4) I used brand new parts and all were torque to GM FSM specs. The upper and lower ball joints were loose and the upper control arms' nuts were loose.
Obviously haver 1,000+ miles the new components settled, I re-torqued the ball joints to specs and torqued the upper control arms nut to 30 lbs ft because the FSM or the Haynes manual does not offers a spec for them.
I realized I did the same front suspension (not coilovers) rebuild on my LT1 back in May 2008. Opened the hood and The same results.
Gentlemen, check your Vettes, you may have loose bolts.
My torque wrench works and it is within specs. Charlie work on calibration and gave me the wrench's reading and it is good-to-go.
Now, the Vette with the new coilovers it is sitting higher than stock and it has to be lowered. Will be working on that during May and it will have to be re-aligned.
BUT
Before I tell you the future please read the following in case you have installed anything lately.
I noticed the upper control arm was moving, moved like a broken ball joint but that would be impossible because all those parts are brand new and super strong. When I did this rebuild (LT4) I used brand new parts and all were torque to GM FSM specs. The upper and lower ball joints were loose and the upper control arms' nuts were loose.
Obviously haver 1,000+ miles the new components settled, I re-torqued the ball joints to specs and torqued the upper control arms nut to 30 lbs ft because the FSM or the Haynes manual does not offers a spec for them.
I realized I did the same front suspension (not coilovers) rebuild on my LT1 back in May 2008. Opened the hood and The same results.
Gentlemen, check your Vettes, you may have loose bolts.
My torque wrench works and it is within specs. Charlie work on calibration and gave me the wrench's reading and it is good-to-go.
Now, the Vette with the new coilovers it is sitting higher than stock and it has to be lowered. Will be working on that during May and it will have to be re-aligned.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Great write up. Good to know about the bolts. On the control arms I used paint to mark the bolts, so if they became loose I would see it.
Also, ACE Hardware has real good bolts, grade 8. Low prices too.
Also, ACE Hardware has real good bolts, grade 8. Low prices too.
#12
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#13
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Take a look
http://www.chapelsteel.com/mpa-psi.html
NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8.
Last edited by PLRX; 04-29-2010 at 01:50 PM.
#14
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Thank You Steve. Regarding bolts, I've learned a lot about bolts last Saturday.
Take a look
http://www.chapelsteel.com/mpa-psi.html
NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8.
Take a look
http://www.chapelsteel.com/mpa-psi.html
NAPA called the Class 8.8 bolt a Grade 8 bolt. If you see a 8.8 in a bolt it does not means it is a Grade 8 bolt. A grade 8 bolt is way stronger than a Class 8.8.
If you need serious bolts there are places like fastenal etc that provide quality controls too. But be prepared to pay.
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Looking for a drivability/ride quality update...
#16
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#18
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#19
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#20
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Ran into a small problem with my rears. Vette still on JS.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1574160699
I should be done with it by Sunday if I dont run into other BS.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...post1574160699
I should be done with it by Sunday if I dont run into other BS.