'87 Plenum and Intake
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
'87 Plenum and Intake
A buddy gave me the whole TPI set up off an '87 F body and I think (and hope) its the same set up as my '85. Am I correct that '85-'87 are the same? '88 is a single year design and the newer ones are the same til the LT1. Is this correct? Any real difference in the Vette and F body?
I am gonna polish the plenum, new SLP runners and base. With a couple hours in, the guys who do this for a livin sure earn their money. I am at the 120 grit stage and looks like I still have a couple of more finer grit stages to go before I think about putting any polish on em. I will wait til I am done porting before I do the polishing.
Thanks for any input.
I am gonna polish the plenum, new SLP runners and base. With a couple hours in, the guys who do this for a livin sure earn their money. I am at the 120 grit stage and looks like I still have a couple of more finer grit stages to go before I think about putting any polish on em. I will wait til I am done porting before I do the polishing.
Thanks for any input.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,758
Likes: 49
From: Houston Texas
read this:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._v8/index.html
http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20i...%20pg%20AA.htm
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._v8/index.html
http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20i...%20pg%20AA.htm
Last edited by ch@0s; Apr 25, 2010 at 11:48 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Santa Maria, CA
Have fun polishing. When I polished my SR, I started with 60 grit to flatten the surfaces and then gradually worked up to 1500 grit. It shines like chrome. As you work your way us it goes a lot faster.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Jacksonville FL
Thanks Chaos, those two pages had alot of info. From what I am gathering, the F bodies had CI heads thru 87 which should match my '85s, maybe with the exception of two bolt holes that may need to be redrilled. The SLP's for my '85 match the '87 F body plenum as well as the base. As you noted, the EGR connection may be different but I have EM headers without any provisions so I will block it off. When I get back home and look closer at the Vette set up I will take a good look at everything. I will install all the parts from the Vette's base on the F body cause everything is good.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,758
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From: Houston Texas
Thanks Chaos, those two pages had alot of info. From what I am gathering, the F bodies had CI heads thru 87 which should match my '85s, maybe with the exception of two bolt holes that may need to be redrilled. The SLP's for my '85 match the '87 F body plenum as well as the base. As you noted, the EGR connection may be different but I have EM headers without any provisions so I will block it off. When I get back home and look closer at the Vette set up I will take a good look at everything. I will install all the parts from the Vette's base on the F body cause everything is good.
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Le Mans Master
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
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From: Jacksonville FL
Dunno if you ever posted this link outright but you oughta.
Thanks Pipe, The link Gregg posted shows the difference in the fuel rail connections and Chaos's links mention it too. I am planning on taking all of my Vette stuff off my '85 base and using it on the ported '87 base.
Plenum polishing is coming along, I am around 200 grit or so and I can see the potential. I may stop there and do the inside. I am not sure but the throttle body holes are already sized to the 52mm gasket of my BBK at the face. I definately see why everyone says be careful. Looks like all I will do on the outlet ports is siamese and work the shoulders back. I definately see why everyone says be careful.
Hey Cumber, did you polish your base as well? There are a lot of nooks and crannies and I was wondering what you used to work that out with. Any power attachments like the polishing ***** or sanding reels for die grinders/dremel?
Last edited by HlhnEast; Apr 25, 2010 at 10:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Jacksonville FL
I will take Cuisinarts suggestion of just cleaning up the base and work on the plenum and the SLPs.
Le Mans Master
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From: Houston Texas
Race Director
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I just get it to 300. Then, if you really want to go the next step, wet sand with 600 grit. Those are the easier grits to find at the hardware store.
From even 300 grit, a black stick (for steel) can "rip" most of the sanding marks right out of aluminum. If you do the 600grit wetsand, I think you'll see how close you are. And, you could skip the black and go right for the while alum bar/stick polish.
The more you do with sanding, the less you'll have to do with your polisher. OTOH, if you're not careful with a clean buff or pressure, you can easily put back fine scratches that the 800/1500 grits would take out. Try both ways and see what you think.
I also consider it's an engine compartment and shoot for really nice work vs absolute perfection. Otherwise, you'll go nuts.
BTW: I second the vote for painting/coating the base. If you're brave, consider using 500-degree engine paint and bake it in the oven. The finish can be quite durable (and cheaper than p-coating). I did my oil-pan at 350 for 10-15 mins. To clear the smell for wives, open windows and run oven at full heat for several minutes AFTER baking paint. Use self-cleaning if possible! BE SNEAKY
From even 300 grit, a black stick (for steel) can "rip" most of the sanding marks right out of aluminum. If you do the 600grit wetsand, I think you'll see how close you are. And, you could skip the black and go right for the while alum bar/stick polish.
The more you do with sanding, the less you'll have to do with your polisher. OTOH, if you're not careful with a clean buff or pressure, you can easily put back fine scratches that the 800/1500 grits would take out. Try both ways and see what you think.
I also consider it's an engine compartment and shoot for really nice work vs absolute perfection. Otherwise, you'll go nuts.
BTW: I second the vote for painting/coating the base. If you're brave, consider using 500-degree engine paint and bake it in the oven. The finish can be quite durable (and cheaper than p-coating). I did my oil-pan at 350 for 10-15 mins. To clear the smell for wives, open windows and run oven at full heat for several minutes AFTER baking paint. Use self-cleaning if possible! BE SNEAKY
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Apr 26, 2010 at 01:42 PM.
Race Director
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If you finish with silicone carbide (wet) using a paper thats one-step finer, sanding marks will disappear. So....Get those sanders out!
Race Director
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It's really hard to show the steps using a picture, but I'll throw one out there anyway.
Here's a pic of the alternator I started this weekend. The back is untouched. The sides of the (rear) case I'm holding have been sanding with 60 and 120 using an orbital detail sander. (This removes casting roughness.) Then, I hand sanded with 300grit SC dry.
The other piece (front) was prepped the same way. But, I also polished it using black (coarse) steel polish using a buff (pressing fairly hard to get it semi-hot). Then, I finished with a quick round of white alum polish.
You can still see some fine scratches with a flash. In person, the polished piece looks WAY more like chrome. And, you can't really see the fine scratches with your eye anyway. (Not unless they're deep anyway.)
Note there are a few pits on the alt face. I didn't want to make the case weaker by sanding to TOO thin. They won't bother me. I can't see the fine scratches (at the bottom of the face) when I look at it at home.
Here's a pic of the alternator I started this weekend. The back is untouched. The sides of the (rear) case I'm holding have been sanding with 60 and 120 using an orbital detail sander. (This removes casting roughness.) Then, I hand sanded with 300grit SC dry.
The other piece (front) was prepped the same way. But, I also polished it using black (coarse) steel polish using a buff (pressing fairly hard to get it semi-hot). Then, I finished with a quick round of white alum polish.
You can still see some fine scratches with a flash. In person, the polished piece looks WAY more like chrome. And, you can't really see the fine scratches with your eye anyway. (Not unless they're deep anyway.)
Note there are a few pits on the alt face. I didn't want to make the case weaker by sanding to TOO thin. They won't bother me. I can't see the fine scratches (at the bottom of the face) when I look at it at home.
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
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From: Chewelah Wa
If you want to paint the inside of the fins after polishing, use some Vasoline and a q-tip to carefully cover the areas you don't want to paint, and mask off the larger areas and spray. the Vasoline will wipe right off with the paint on top of the fins. It helps to bevel the edges of the fins with a small sanding block or file, as the paint line will be much cleaner looking. If yo don't bevel, the casting marks on the edge will leave a ragged paint line.
Race Director
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The vasoline trick works well. I've done the same thing with similar gels (like wax, oil, or butter). Whatever's handy.
To update my previous post, I compared my alternator face with the other parts where I did more wetsanding. Though the end result is still quite pleasing, I can see a difference if you stop at 300 and polish. There are more fine scratches if you look for them.
For personal satisfaction, I'd stick with 300...for show quality, I guess you need to go further.
To update my previous post, I compared my alternator face with the other parts where I did more wetsanding. Though the end result is still quite pleasing, I can see a difference if you stop at 300 and polish. There are more fine scratches if you look for them.
For personal satisfaction, I'd stick with 300...for show quality, I guess you need to go further.