Hey, never done any kind of header install in my life, but was going to get headers for my car. What would it cost to get them installed, estimatated? If I was to do it myself is there any advice or anything to help me get started with the process, was planning on getting the hedman elites. Any advice or anything would help, never done anything like this before, so dont want to get started and get myself into a huge mess. Thanks.

 

Depends on your mechanical abilities.

You will need:
Floor jack
At least 2 jack stands.
Metric and SAE wrenches
PB Blaster
Grinder
BFH
Welder or access to one.
Some fabricating ability for braces like A/C, dipstick etc.
A muffler shop to tie it in to existing system.


I am currently install a set of EM headers on my 96 LT4.

I had to grind down a brace on the pass side and reverse the motor mount bolt on the left side. I will have to do some fabricating for the A/C compressor bracket and the dipstick bracket. Not that bad if you have the ability and the tools.

 

You will also need a O2 sensor bung or 2 depending on the year of your car. You will need to drill a hole(s) and weld the bung(s) on.

 

If you buy a kit you don't need to do that stuff above. It would all bolt together. If you don't want to buy exhaust pipe with the kit then you'd need a flange welded on your pipe to bolt up. I have no idea what the install cost would be, I do my own work. I mention the kit because it may cost less in labor to install a kit that costs more initially.

The most difficult part of the install for me was the dipstick tube. It was tough to remove.

 

If you buy headers from TPIS you won't need to do most of this stuff to make them fit.. TPIS headers are almost Plug And Play, and with there slip fit Y pipe theres no welding......But of course there more $$$$$$....WW

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...te-videos.html

I have put on a lot of headers in my time and never had any that bolted up and fit perfect until today.
I took the plugs,wires, and starter off. I took the S-belt off and the 4 long screws that hold the A/C compressor in place and moved it. The drivers side slid in from the top easily. The passengers went in from the bottom just as easy.







I found a cutting wheel that will fit a Skill saw turning it into a Exhaust munching beast.

 

Since most shops charge around $90 per hour, the TPiS headers with their front Y pipe would probably be the least expensive option. I just reinstalled my TPiS headers last weekend. You just need jack stands and a jack that will give you plenty of room under the car. No welding, grinding or fabrication required.

 

I payed 30$ to have my y pipe fabbed and the headman Elites headers were under $400. that's a lot cheaper than the TPIS

 

What did you do about not having a support bracket for your alternator and your A/C, did you have to make up a different bracket or adapt the ones you already had?? Also the Headman headers are 1 5/8", if the OP wants 1 3/4" he will have to go with some other brand. Don't get me wrong, the headmans are great headers for the money but if the OP doesn't have the tools to fab up brackets or the know how, TPIS headers just bolt up and your done. We are just giving him options...WW

 

the alt wont need one I have a Hefty by korvette4u air pump delete bracket.I need to make one for the A/C just haven't gotten around to it yet.


I'm not saying don't buy the TPIS,
I have seen them in person they fit great and look awesome,just giving you another option.

 

Well I have always wanted headers on my vette and went for it. I was in the same boat as you ( had some skills but didnt know if putting headers in would be worth it ) ...IT WASN"T..got the passenger side off. then found out my HOOKER LONG TUBES did not have the AIR holes in them so I said screw it and had a shop do it for me. 1,300. later and they are in and it runs good...LOUD as all hell but great. hooker long tubes, no cats or mufflers.. I didnt feel in increase in performance mainly due PROBABLY to me not having proper back pressure but what the hell who cares, Its my third card so i dont drive it much. Just to the gas station and store...

 

Nice job ch@Os
I still haven't made any brackets for the alt and AC, going on 3 years now.

As ch@Os shows, the Elites line up nicely with the stock Y. Fortunately, I have a mig, so there was no extra costs, other than buying an O2 bung.

Here's a pic of mine, after cutting cats off and before welding.

 

I believe the OP was saying he was looking at having a shop install the headers. You don't get that for $30. I'm just trying to keep the degree of difficulty down where he may be able to do it himself. I know TPiS headers will go on with minimum difficulty.

 

Putting the headers on is the hard part
Either way ball is in his court now.

 

Thanks
I respect your opinion .

 

One trick for removing a dipstick tube is to stick a bolt that fits tightly into the end of the tube. Then clamp some visegrips on that part of the tube. Thr bolt will keep the tube from crushing. Twist and pull

 

The first and basic question that nobody has asked is what year is your Vette?

The majority of responses / pics appear to be '91 and earlier L98 header installs. While similar to the '92-'96 LT1 / LT4 there are differences. For the most part if you get a good set of full length headers (e.g. TPiS) it should be a bolt-in process with some possible exhaust work required post header install or a pre-fab exhaust kit which may be bolt-on too.

L98 vs LT1 / LT4 differences (may not be a complete list)

• A/C and Alternator mounting and brackets
• EGR plumbing on engine and header
• Front Y-Pipe / Single CAT vs Dual Cat / True Dual Exhaust
• Single O2 Sensor vs Dual O2 Sensor

So dependent on what year you have the headers and install will be different. The main difference will be in regard to the CAT's. On the L98 it should just bolt-up with the Y-Pipe and can reuse your single CAT in the tunnel. Or you could eliminate also dependent on whether you want to or need to be emissions legal.

On the LT1 the two CAT's are located up higher and connect directly to the stock exhaust manifold. They cannot be reused with full length headers. Therefore you need to decide if your going to eliminate the CAT's or install a set of "bullet" CAT's (e.g. Random Technologies). Either custom exhaust work will be required or the purchase of a bolt-on pre-fab exhaust kits from the header back.
I would recommend installing header flanges to mount the header to the exhaust so that you can remove the header independent of the exhaust when required.

My experience is with a '93 LT1. As was mentioned the TPiS full length headers are relatively easy to install. I"ve also installed a set of Doug Rippie full length headers. To me the key to an easy install is to raise the Vette as high as possible front and back. Also, typically the header's install easier from the bottom then the top.

There is no need to fabricate any A/C or Alternator brackets for an LT1 install as you can resuse unmodified brackets. You will also reuse the two stock longer exhaust manifold bolts on the driver side for the stock brackets to mount in the same location. On the LT1 I suggest unbolting the ASR and moving it out of the way as well as the A/C compressor.

Make sure to pay attention to the routing of the plug wires and other wiring (e.g. starter, O2, Knock Sensor, Low Oil Sensor, OIl Temp Sensor, etc.). You should be able to use the stock wire looms even with 8.5mm MSD wires. It's very easy to get fried wires if you don't pay attention to this detail. Pay attention especially to the front engine routing of the plug wires to the Opti-Spark. I would suggest getting thermal covers for all the wiring and you may want to consider a heat shield for the starter.

Some trial and error will be required but, if your a decent backyard mechanic you should be able to do the install yourself with no problem. The only extar labor / cost may be to have a exhaust shop complete the exhaust system unless you have a pre-fab bolt-on setup you can do yourself.

 

His bio states its an 89. Emissions is a good question. The 89 has air tubes to the manifolds. If the headers aren't equipped, there's more work to delete A.I.R.

 

If you are doing them your self, while you're down there, take the time to look everything over. When I did mine on my 87 I replaced my starter, and also put on a new knock sensor and a new sensor wire. I also did new plugs and wires and O2 sensor.

The dipstick was my biggest problem, I ended up having to get a new one, because I mangled it pretty back.

Also I had to remove the passengerside diagonal frame support, and the fuel filter cover.

For easier access to the header bolts, I removed the plastic sides of the front wheel wells.