95 overheating
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95 overheating
Is there common overheating problem for that year?
There is no bubbles in coolant tank.
I went to GM dealer mechanic, he said it was not a gasket problem.
Antifreeze temp going to 240 and it is boiling.
I replaced water pump and there was no thermostat, I installed one.
Can it be rusted water pump sleeve?
Bad new pump? Bad new thermostat?
There is no bubbles in coolant tank.
I went to GM dealer mechanic, he said it was not a gasket problem.
Antifreeze temp going to 240 and it is boiling.
I replaced water pump and there was no thermostat, I installed one.
Can it be rusted water pump sleeve?
Bad new pump? Bad new thermostat?
Last edited by gaguy; May 1, 2010 at 09:20 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,768
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From: Rolla Missouri
2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10 thru '25
240 is not all that hot for a modern cooling system.
If you have the coolant in the proper mixture and with the correct pressure on the system, the boiling temp. is close to 260 F.
Under normal driving conditions (any speed above 40 mph), the temp. should run in the 190 F - 198 F range.
Sitting in stop and go traffic, it's normal for the temp to reach the 228 F. - 235 F. range.
With the car not moving, there is no airflow across the radiator until the electric cooling fans come on. The fans will come on at approx. 228 F.
You can also "force" the cooling fans on, by turning on the A/C system if it operates correctly.
If you have the coolant in the proper mixture and with the correct pressure on the system, the boiling temp. is close to 260 F.
Under normal driving conditions (any speed above 40 mph), the temp. should run in the 190 F - 198 F range.
Sitting in stop and go traffic, it's normal for the temp to reach the 228 F. - 235 F. range.
With the car not moving, there is no airflow across the radiator until the electric cooling fans come on. The fans will come on at approx. 228 F.
You can also "force" the cooling fans on, by turning on the A/C system if it operates correctly.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
The lower part of the radiator gets all kinds of road junk stuffed into it and it needs to be cleaned out periodically. 50% antifreeze at 15 psi boils at 265 F. Make sure your rad cap will allow 15 psi. Lower psi means lower boiling temperature.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: sonoma ca
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
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From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
The fix is simple, cheap and somewhat lasting.
1. Pull and clean the radiator
2. Flush complete system and replace with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and anti-freeze.
3. Install new top and bottom radiator hoses and new clamps.
4. Install new radiator cap
5. Install new t-stat
Now you will be driving cooler for thousands of miles.
1. Pull and clean the radiator
2. Flush complete system and replace with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and anti-freeze.
3. Install new top and bottom radiator hoses and new clamps.
4. Install new radiator cap
5. Install new t-stat
Now you will be driving cooler for thousands of miles.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Everett WA
C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
This is a common problem for 95's. 15 years of sediment and years of your car being a bottom feeder and the lower half of the rad fins getting cloged with all manner of bugs, twigs, little stones, bits of trash, etc, etc. make it really difficult to clean the fins out completely. If you can afford it ... you can buy a new rad for ~$250.00 and your problems will be resolved for years to come. I finally had mine replaced 12,000 miles ago and the difference is like night & day.jk it's not a problem uniques to 95s ... it's this way for all C4s because they are bottom feeders.
If you can't replace the rad make sure that you have a properly working thermostat and that the system holds pressure. What finally did mine in was a stress fracture in one of the plastic side covers of the rad. It was going to be almost as expensive to fix it as it was to replace it.
