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I have a Service Ride Control light and have not yet checked the code, but if it is a case where the motor is bad or teeth are missing on the gears, what direction do I spin the gears to have them be full stiff? I have the car on jackstands now checking other things and while its up there I might just turn them all to full stiff manually until I can repair them. Can I do this with my fingers or do I need to grab the gear with pliers or something? Also, once I put them in full stiff mode what keeps them from turning back?
When the system detects a fault code, it should place the shocks in (I think!)"Tour" mode (or at least operate the actuators in an attempt to do so). But after that, the system is inoperative. If you leave the actuators in place, every time you start the car and move it, the system will try to go to Tour mode and then quit operating.
So removing all 4 of the actuators from the top of the shocks is the only way to manually adjust the shocks. The gear should turn with some resistance in either direction to the stop unless the problem is a broken shock gear where the gear cannot stop at the limit,
My FSM doesn' say which way is soft and which way is firm. You will probably have to experiment. But keep in mind that if the problem is internal to a shock, turning the gear may change the setting when the shock failed.
But you really need to pull the codes first to see what the problem is.
I have a Service Ride Control light and have not yet checked the code, but if it is a case where the motor is bad or teeth are missing on the gears, what direction do I spin the gears to have them be full stiff? I have the car on jackstands now checking other things and while its up there I might just turn them all to full stiff manually until I can repair them. Can I do this with my fingers or do I need to grab the gear with pliers or something? Also, once I put them in full stiff mode what keeps them from turning back?
from Hib Halverson's article on FX3:
"When working with SRC shocks, be very careful not to damage the little gear at the top of each damper. The bypass valve drive gears are metal, but they are small and somewhat brittle. Do not turn the gear with a wrench or pliers. Do not apply force to the gear with any tools. Chip or break that gear and the damper must be rebuilt or replaced."
When the system detects a fault code, it should place the shocks in (I think!)"Tour" mode (or at least operate the actuators in an attempt to do so). But after that, the system is inoperative. If you leave the actuators in place, every time you start the car and move it, the system will try to go to Tour mode and then quit operating.
So removing all 4 of the actuators from the top of the shocks is the only way to manually adjust the shocks. The gear should turn with some resistance in either direction to the stop unless the problem is a broken shock gear where the gear cannot stop at the limit,
My FSM doesn' say which way is soft and which way is firm. You will probably have to experiment. But keep in mind that if the problem is internal to a shock, turning the gear may change the setting when the shock failed.
But you really need to pull the codes first to see what the problem is.
Yeah I have a track event coming up so I wont be able to fix it in time, I just wanted to turn them to full stiff (if I could) and worry about the problem later.
Full clockwise looking down on the shaft. Tywrap all four actuators out of the way unless you can figure which end of the car the bad one is. Once you figure that out, reattach the actuators on the other end.
But, you probably have one bad actuator - remove them one at a time and watch each actuator go thru its cycle when you turn the ignition on.
I did all fours like that, sold all the actuators, trying to sell the module now...
an it is stiff all the time yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
they don't click they just spin freely with no indexing....
been like that for a year no probs..
of course fronts are cake, rears not so much, but you will realize when you have the rears off the car, which way to turn the gears, just push on the shock at the same time.......stiff one way and the other way not.....
ha!. I thought about doing that, but mine leak a lot though. Maybe I'll rebuild them and leave the actuators off. Are they too stiff at a high setting or do they do alright?
ha!. I thought about doing that, but mine leak a lot though. Maybe I'll rebuild them and leave the actuators off. Are they too stiff at a high setting or do they do alright?
they pound the crap outa me but i like it, back in 84 my friend had an 84 z51, it is not as stiff as that, but then again the 89 that I now have the chassis is better manufactured so it can pound away.... it still seems tight!!!
I did all fours like that, sold all the actuators, trying to sell the module now...
an it is stiff all the time yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
they don't click they just spin freely with no indexing....
been like that for a year no probs..
of course fronts are cake, rears not so much, but you will realize when you have the rears off the car, which way to turn the gears, just push on the shock at the same time.......stiff one way and the other way not.....
Thanks! This helps a lot. You say you can feel by hand the difference in damping so I dont have to drive the car to feel if I turned it the right way?
Thanks! This helps a lot. You say you can feel by hand the difference in damping so I dont have to drive the car to feel if I turned it the right way?
like Koni's there is a big difference between soft, medium and hard, matter of fact they are manually adjustable shocks, you just have to zip them at the setting you like... so it's a freebie!