The difference between the two is the anti-galling coating on the aluminum shaft specific u-joint caps.

I had to use a long flatblade screwdriver to pop out the caps from the yokes anyway so I doubt the anti-galling coating of the original spicers was worth a !@#$! anyway.

YMMV

Some people have put anti-sieze compund on them. I didn't. The recommendataion is not to use any lubricant that would promote a situation that may allow the cap to spin.

 

I believe the purpose of the coating is to prevent galvanic corrosion. You really wouldn't want that to happen, so I'd play it safe and use the correct coated U Joints. It looks like you can get some from Advance. The Brut Force. But they aren't Spicer.

 

How are you going to use coated U joints if you can't buy the good ones any more? I'd rather take my chances with uncoated that use Advance joints.

 

Spicer indicated that the SP 5447 X is the proper half shaft U Joints for
aluminum half shafts.............don't know if they are "coated" or not but they are for aluminum...........

 

I believe those do have the coating on them. And I believe that is the only Spicer you can get for the Vette with a coating. But it has the grease fitting on it.

So, if you want the coating and NO grease fitting, then you have to go with a different brand if you can't find any NOS coated Spicers.

I'm thinking I'd just go with the coated Brute Forces or Performance Dynamic and not worry about it.

That is if the Brute Forces on my half shafts are still good and what I'm noticing is something else like the OEM ujoints on the driveshaft. If the Brute Forces are wore out on my halfshafts after just 5k-6k miles. Then I think I might look at something different.

 

I noticed on the web link (http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vad...orpujoint.html) that the calipers were removed from the rotor. (not mentioned in the web link) I assume that removal is necessary? IS THAT TRUE??? Do I need to do any thing special to remove the calipers? Thanks for all the posts. It looks like with all the information I will be attempting to replace the U-joints on my '93. The local Chevrolet dealer charges about a $1,000 to do the job, and I don't think that includes alignment.

 

The SP 5447-X did not have grease fittings.......

 

Did it like you said...except I unbolted the tie rod end not the ball joint but everything else was like you stated......So easy....even a Caveman could do it.

 

Just double checking this - changing the U-joint WILL alter the alignment unless the bolt is loosened, right?

Not doubting you, just trying to be sure I understand.

 

After you remove the two 8mm screws that hold the cap straps on the u-joint should slip out of the yoke with a little pressure. The caps will slide off so easily at this point that you run a risk of dropping one and losing its needle bearings so tape them in place or be very careful when it isn't in the yoke. The side that is on the half shaft will need to be pressed out with a u-joint tool or the vise/press + socket method.

Be careful with the pressing as it is not too hard to damage the seal under the caps.

 

Tape

 

Yeah, I know about the tape. But you gotta pull the shaft to put the tape on. So, I guess you just have to hope the caps don't fall out till you can get the tape on it.

 

If they fall off that easily they're probably shot. If you do decide to keep them just carefully smear a little grease on the needles and that will help them stay on for re assembly. Good luck!

 

Any general purpose grease will work for that or if you have a grease gun just squirt a little out and use it. As mentioned look at the seals on the caps really close. A while back Spicer went through a bad batch and they were cracked out of the box or very brittle.

 

my car the same symptoms...i purchased the neapco brute force ujoints...now time to install.

 

This is an old thread but I've encountered this subject a lot. And to set the record straight, You Can Remove Your Half-Shafts without removing ANY other suspension struts. When you understand the geometry of the independent design you will learn that the Half-Shafts are the ONLY suspension component that locates the knuckle in the suspension arch of travel. Once you remove the U-joint straps, the knuckle is suspended in space by spindle, camber, toe and spring struts. The knuckle can easily be moved as allowed by the movement/wear of the combined strut bushings. The Spindle, Camber, Toe and Spring 'Struts' Do Not locate the knuckle! The suspension struts only orient the knuckle in relation to chassis setup. To remove the half-shaft, the knuckle only has to be moved enough so that the U-joint cap can clear the cap retaining nodule on the yoke. Then some finessing and rotating of the yokes to line up will allow the half-shaft to drop out.
That said, I usually disconnect the Camber strut to make it easier to reinstall and not drop a u-joint cup. I hate playing pick-up sticks with needle bearings! But those that instruct to needlessly dismantle the rear suspension to remove half-shafts either do not understand the independent design or are just 'parroting' what they've read. If you don't believe me or that the knuckle won't move with the half-shafts disconnected (u-joint straps removed), just try this experiment. Disconnect one side of your half-shafts, pop the car in Neutral, and roll it backwards....And watch your rear tires go full negative camber & toe in!
Bottom Line: The half-shafts don't just propel the car, they are an INTEGRAL part of the suspension.

 

What all exactly are you removing in order to replace the ujoints in the half shafts? Maybe do a right up?

When I did mine many years ago, the hardest part was getting those spindle bolts off. I ended up buying an impact gun to eventually get them off. I had thought of at the time of replacing those bolts with a different bolt instead of the factory torx head. But I put anti-sieze on those bolts when I reinstalled to hopefully make it easier in the future.