What is the quickest, most straight forward U-Joint replacement procedure for the C4 half shaft. I've read that some pull the sway bar end link, then the dog bones and drop it out. Others say to remove the long bolt at the end of the spring, the outer camber rod bolt at the knuckle and the tie rod end at the knuckle. I'd like to do it without altering the alignment so I don't have to get a 4 wheel alignment when I'm done.

Any thoughts....or alternative methods.

Thanks

 

The alignment should alter with just the u joint replacement....unless you pull the upper inner camber rod bolt loose/out.

You only have to unbolt most everything from the bearing carrier spindle (not sure of the correct name for this big aluminum part off hand) side not the car. Support the end of the mono leaf spring before you begin.

Stuff to unbolt:
The lower shock bolt,lower camber rod bolt, bolts on the trailing end of the dog bones, sway bar end mounting bolts (2 per side), brake caliper/dics/ABS sensor and mono spring bolt. You can actually leave the tie rod ends where they are and rotate the bearing/carrier assembly off the end of the spindle splines. Then remove the saddle straps from yokes on the differential side of the 1/2 shaft assemblies. Swap the joints out and reassemble car.

 

I mark the position of the dogbones and then remove the 2 inside bolts and drop, diconnect the tierods and remove the inner and outer halfshalf bolts and then pull them out.

I can do a side in about 20 minutes now, but I have a impact wrench, makes getting the wheels off real quick.
Hardest part is getting out and putting the car in neutral, to turn the shafts.

Driveshaft is another matter, you have to drop the exhaust, but you do not need to touch the C beam or emergency brake cable.

 

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vad...orpujoint.html

 

I recently replaced U-joints on my '92 - removed wheel and half-shaft only.

Jack rear & chock front.
Place transmission in neutral.
For the wheel-side U-joint strap bolts, rotate the wheels until the strap bolts are at the bottom-rear, this should give you room for your socket with a 1/4" knuckle and an extension or two while lying under the car. Keep rotating until all four bolts and both straps are out.

The differential-side straps are easier, just rotate the wheels until the bolts you want are on the top - you should have access to the bolts looking over the wheel from outside the car in a normal upright sitting position. This makes it easy.

Once all of those bolts are removed, the trick is wiggling the half-shaft out. There's a notch where the U-joint fits in, gently use a screwdriver to get the differential-side U-joint out of that notch and push the differential-side of the half-shaft up (you may need to rotate the wheel and/or differential to get everything out). This will give you enough room to back the wheel-side of the half-shaft out of the knuckle and everything down and out of the car.

Installation is reverse.

note: I'm not a mechanic. I suck at this stuff, but this all seemed easy to me.

 

This is an excellent resource. Basically I used a similar version to fix my car. I did invest in a shop press from Harbor Freight. Good dollars spent. Oh yeah almost forgot, I bought the extra long extension from Sears. I believe that it was 20 inches or so long. It really helped getting to the inboard strap bolts on the half shaft.

 

SSweet.....Just unbolt the spring.......Unbolt the Camber adjustment at the D36 and pull it downward....Unbolt that ball joint and use a rubber mallet to knock it upwards and loose.......Unbolt the straps for the ujoints on the half shafts.

Now the whole hub will move if you push it using your leg....lie under the car and push out ward with your foot. The Half shaft will drop from one end or the other.

Then wriggle/wrestle the half-shaft out.

Easy cheesy, lemon squeezy

Leave the shock and dogbones alone...

Use a bunch of long extensions to reach the inner u-joint straps. You can access them from the top of the half shaft if you remove the rear wheel and look straight inward.

The outer straps are a PIA cause they can only be reached from lying under the car.

 

What brand U-joints are you guys using and where are you getting them from?

I'm thinking I need to replace the ones in my halfshaft, as when I hit the gas. It feels like I get kicked in the rear, then when I let off the gas, it feels like someone pulled their foot out of my butt.

And sometimes when I'm almost stopped when I'm braking, I hear a knock from the rear. And sometimes while I'm taking off.

The PO replaced the Ujoints in the drive shaft. He put in Spicer from what I read on them when I was under there last.

 

Just did all 6 of mine and used the Neapco Brutes. They seem to be a good heavy duty piece.

I gave up trying to find the coated Spicers. Bought the Neapcos at Pep Boys special order. The Neapcos are coated for dissimiliar metals.

Driveshaft (2) 1-0626BF
Halfshaft (4) 2-0617BF

I also took the opportunity to install the roller bearings I had sitting around and installed new teflon washers on the spindles shafts.

Eddie

 

The coated Spicers are no more......discontinued.

 

This sounds a lot easier than the other posts. I would rather not disconnect everything if you can get the half shaft out without doing all the other stuff.

If this method is used it doesn't seem like you would have to do an alignment either.

Why does everyone recommend taking so much apart?

 

Get the teflon washers from Chevy part # is 14076924 I believe

 

Because the knuckle or Hub won't move outward without taking off some the items listed

Think......Why doesn't your hub pry sideways while you are cornering? 'cause all that "Stuff" is keeping it from moving side to side.

Now, how are you going to pry that knuckle sideways with a screwdriver?? it doesn't pry sideways while creating almost 1G on the skid pad.....Why then wouldn't a screwdriver work??

the Way I listed......only leaves the two dogbones, shock and the sway bar attached.....and they have no "side to side" stabilization.

 

Thanks for all the input....I have access to a lift so that's a plus. I went with Spicer U joints from drivetrain specialists...I use my C4 for autocrossing and the season's about to begin...............

 

Did you get the ones for aluminum shafts? You have to have a special Ujoint. Someone above says the Spicers are discontinued.

 

Is that the only other thing you'd need to replace other than half shaft U joints?

And I've read of some people saying their teflon washers were missing. Is there an easy way to see if you have the teflon washers in place without taking everything apart?

 

I don't think so because spindle is in the way

 

I got the SP 5-447X which drivetrain specialists said was the proper U Joint for a 1988 Corvette.

5-447X 1350 Aluminum U-Joint

 

The Spicer U joints are still available. The coated ones are not.

 

Yeah, but you have to use the coated U joints. So technically they aren't available from what I'm being told. The other ones are for steel drive shafts from what I recall.