Rear main seal change.....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 26,745
Likes: 694
From: PA
Rear main seal change.....
Anything special I need to look out for?
Doing this in my friends garage since he has a lift, tranny jack, and about every tool imaginable.
I have a 1993 shop manual so I think that will come in SUPER handy. I looked over it a while ago and from what I remember I need to unhook the drive shaft, cross-member, drop the tranny, and maybe the exhaust.
Does this sound correct or am I missing something else? Are there any special tools required for this job? While the tranny is out I am changing the radio and the putting in my new shifter boot!
Let me know what to look out for and what I can expect.
Thanks!
Doing this in my friends garage since he has a lift, tranny jack, and about every tool imaginable.
I have a 1993 shop manual so I think that will come in SUPER handy. I looked over it a while ago and from what I remember I need to unhook the drive shaft, cross-member, drop the tranny, and maybe the exhaust.
Does this sound correct or am I missing something else? Are there any special tools required for this job? While the tranny is out I am changing the radio and the putting in my new shifter boot!
Let me know what to look out for and what I can expect.
Thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
Order some new flex plate/flywheel and if auto torque converter to flex plate mounting hardware. Inspect your old flywheel or flexplate closely. You'll need a rear main seal, loctite, rear main seal housing gasket (I use gasket "sealer" on the gasket regardless of what the manufacture says), RTV, high and low value torque wrenches & oil pan gasket at a minimum.
Ensure that the main seal is inserted perfectly flush/square into seal housing. Grease the crap out of the new seal's inner flange and the crank before you try to slide it home.
If the tranny is out this would be a great time to change the main driveshaft U joints.
Ensure that the main seal is inserted perfectly flush/square into seal housing. Grease the crap out of the new seal's inner flange and the crank before you try to slide it home.
If the tranny is out this would be a great time to change the main driveshaft U joints.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 26,745
Likes: 694
From: PA
Do I need to drop the oil pan? I was under the car about a month ago and visually inspected it and it didnt look like I needed to drop the pan but maybe I am wrong.....lol
It is a 6-speed car with 57k miles. Other than the leak the car is sound. I have had it completely tuned up and it runs great. Only mods are the skip shift eliminator and a cut filter lid.
I have loctite and the rear main seal. What is the rear main seal housing gasket? Is that the bell-housing to the block gasket? Also, which gasket sealer would you say works the best?
Help is greatly appreciated!
It is a 6-speed car with 57k miles. Other than the leak the car is sound. I have had it completely tuned up and it runs great. Only mods are the skip shift eliminator and a cut filter lid.
I have loctite and the rear main seal. What is the rear main seal housing gasket? Is that the bell-housing to the block gasket? Also, which gasket sealer would you say works the best?
Help is greatly appreciated!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
Nice engine cradle Pete!
You guys are correct...my bad. The rear main seal can be swapped without pulling the pan. Use caution as not to gouge the crank or main seal seating surface of the housing upon removal. Also ensure that you don't unevenly load/seat the new seal if you don't have the correct tools to drive it home. I'd be tempted to have an extra oil pan gasket on hand if you find other leaks around the pan....this would be the time to address them if a problem exists.
You guys are correct...my bad. The rear main seal can be swapped without pulling the pan. Use caution as not to gouge the crank or main seal seating surface of the housing upon removal. Also ensure that you don't unevenly load/seat the new seal if you don't have the correct tools to drive it home. I'd be tempted to have an extra oil pan gasket on hand if you find other leaks around the pan....this would be the time to address them if a problem exists.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 26,745
Likes: 694
From: PA
You guys are great. Looks like I am ready to start this puppy tomorrow!
I dont have the proper tool but I will try to locate one. If not I will just take my time and be sure not to push more on one part than the other.
I will let you guys know tomorrow how I make out. Also, I will try and get some pictures.
Thanks guys!
I dont have the proper tool but I will try to locate one. If not I will just take my time and be sure not to push more on one part than the other.
I will let you guys know tomorrow how I make out. Also, I will try and get some pictures.
Thanks guys!
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 325
From: San Antonio Tx
Do not use a hammer to install the seal. Press it in evenly or it will leak. If you do not have the proper tool, I used a short piece of pvc pipe and longer bolts for the flex plate to press the seal in.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Where does the rear main seal leak from? I know my intake gasket is leaking. But on my 89, I've noticed a lot of oil making its way to the starter. And I'm thinking the oil is coming from somewhere else than the rear of the intake, but it is hard to see.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Is there any chance that oil will get past the tranny gasket? As that is where I also see oil collecting.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 26,745
Likes: 694
From: PA
As someone mentioned it will leak out of the housing and the little tin cover. Mine you could see was leaking badly when we got it apart. The old seal was pretty crappy from the factory. The FELPRO one I replaced it with had I think 4 ribs on the outside, it was more rigid, and the inner lip was better.
