bolt extractor snapped off
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
bolt extractor snapped off
well tried out the bolt extractor on that snapped off shock bolt.
the extractor snapped off inside the bolt
fortunately I managed to get it out
now I'm left with a pilot hole
I'm thinking of drilling it out with progressively larger bits, then taking a cold chisel to it.
EDIT: add pics
the extractor snapped off inside the bolt
fortunately I managed to get it out
now I'm left with a pilot hole
I'm thinking of drilling it out with progressively larger bits, then taking a cold chisel to it.
EDIT: add pics
Last edited by BrianCunningham; May 11, 2010 at 06:30 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 773
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis MN
In my experience those or any extractors never work.The only 2 things that works is drilling out center of broken bolt/stud,heating up around bolt,then using a reverse drill bit or other tool to turn it out.Otherwise the other option is just drilling it out & installing a helicoil or similar insert.I guess you could also weld on a nut/stud with room permitting.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
I agree, drill it out bigger until it is close to the the threads, then try the e-z-out and as a last resort chisel it out. ( but I am sure you figured this much out already 
)
The ideal scenario is too get the initial drill hole as close to center as possible, you can then sometimes drill it out to the tap drill size..
) The ideal scenario is too get the initial drill hole as close to center as possible, you can then sometimes drill it out to the tap drill size..
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
You are on the right track by slowly drilling a progessively lager pilot hole. As you approach the threads stop short. Insert a metal cutting scroll saw blade withthe end pins cut off gripped by vicegrips, cutting on the down stroke. Cutthru to the threads but not deeply into the reciever threads. Spray liberally with Aerokroil. Have a beer or two. Now strike the thread inteface with a small, sharp center punch. This upsets the rusted threads and deforms what's left of the bolt. Now back out with a small bladed screw driver. I bebuilt a 1941 Ford Jeep like this and the process has served me well over several decades. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
it's definitely off a little off center
I had trouble getting the drill in there.
not the mention keeping it centered on what was left of the bolt.
BTW it's either a welded on or captured nut inside the frame
I had trouble getting the drill in there.
not the mention keeping it centered on what was left of the bolt.
BTW it's either a welded on or captured nut inside the frame
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
A last ditch solution is to increase the size of your drill hole, even off center until you can remove the wider part of the off enter drilled broken bolt, then tap with either the next size up metric or SAE tap size. There should be enough sidewall in the welded or captured bolt to give you sufficient purchase. The last method is to drill out the entire or all most all of the captured bolt. If you go all the way to 1/2 inch, drill and tap a piece of 1/2 steel dowell, shove into hole and TIG weld its edges, grind flat and retap to clear slag. The bottom of the dowell slug should be bevelled to allow weldment when ground flat. This method is greatly enhanced if you have access to an engine lathe to fabricate the dowell slug.Tell me what size your final drill out is and I will turn you dowell slug taped to that metric bolt size. I'm at jmarsh@jmgtx.com. Good luck
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 252
Likes: 30
From: San Diego Ca
Take those easy outs and throw them as far as you can. You wrere fortunate that you were able to get the broken piece out, most of the time you are stuck with a hardened piece stuck in there that you can't drill through. All the advise above is good but only if you don't have a broken extractor in the bolt.
Jim
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
You don't have much room to work with but if you could find an old bolt and sharpen the tip to a point. Stick the point in the hole you drilled and with a mig welder, (if you have one) weld the sharpened bolt to the broken one then immediately try to turn the whole thing out while it's still hot from welding. It will be touchy I admit, too bad the broken bolt wasn't a bigger diameter.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
Brian, I was looking at your pictures and my 95 rear shock mounts this morning. Another solution to your problem might be to take a 4 inch right angle grinder and cut the frame parallel to the bottom and as high as the frame is thick and as long as required to slide a 1/4 inch steel plate drilled and taped for the shock mount into that slot. If that plate is carefully cut in width to place the tapped holes over the existing holes and the outside edge even with the frame a weld bead could hold the plate in place and provide enough weldment to re-enforce the frame to its original strength.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
tried heat. that's how I got the extractor out.
I have some custom hats for the tops of the shock
I'm thinking I can use that as a drill jig
It's going to have to wait though
taking care of some plumbing issues right now
something tells me I'm not making the autox this Sat
I have some custom hats for the tops of the shock
I'm thinking I can use that as a drill jig
It's going to have to wait though
taking care of some plumbing issues right now
something tells me I'm not making the autox this Sat
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
thanks, I'll let you know 
Picked up a metric tap set when I bought the longer snake today.
EDIT
Those bolts are 8x1.25 BTW not 1.0 or 1.5
put in correct size, oops
sales guy said one thing, but sold me the right one.
either that or my morning coffee ran out
Picked up a metric tap set when I bought the longer snake today.
EDIT
Those bolts are 8x1.25 BTW not 1.0 or 1.5
put in correct size, oops
sales guy said one thing, but sold me the right one.
either that or my morning coffee ran out
Last edited by BrianCunningham; May 18, 2010 at 06:09 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,365
Likes: 2,731
I realize it's maybe "late" but with that large of a bore and easy access to the inside of the frame rail I'd take a rag saturated with Kroil or your favorite penetrant and stuff it in there for an evening. Myself I'd take a strip of dum-dum and form a circular dam of sorts and fill it with the Kroil or your favorite. Just let it sit an evening, rap it with a hammer tomorrow and remove it.
Yes, reverse or "left-handed" drill bits would/should do well with a bolt of this diameter!
KROIL "the finest penetrant bar NONE" : http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
Last edited by WVZR-1; May 17, 2010 at 08:21 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Yeah that does suck. I've always found the smaller sizes to be too damn brittle because they try to expand the fasterner as they turn for grip by design.
Only once have I ever been successful with an extractor. I always just end up having to drill the damn thing out with a larger bit each time.
Only once have I ever been successful with an extractor. I always just end up having to drill the damn thing out with a larger bit each time.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,845
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
EDIT
Those bolts are 8x1.25 BTW not 1.0 or 1.5
your correct on the size
sales guy said one thing, but sold me the right one.
either that or my morning coffee ran out
After going through a few bits, I got the bolt through drilled today
I'm not into the nut as of yet
I need to disconnect the abs connectors to get the drill at a better angle.
I got it hollowed out pretty good, so I tried collapsing it with a chisel.
didn't work, but I got all the frays off, so it's better set for taping
I need to go to the next size drill bit
Those bolts are 8x1.25 BTW not 1.0 or 1.5
your correct on the size
sales guy said one thing, but sold me the right one.
either that or my morning coffee ran out
After going through a few bits, I got the bolt through drilled today
I'm not into the nut as of yet
I need to disconnect the abs connectors to get the drill at a better angle.
I got it hollowed out pretty good, so I tried collapsing it with a chisel.
didn't work, but I got all the frays off, so it's better set for taping
I need to go to the next size drill bit